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Thread: How To Build a Race Car

  1. #19
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    Wicked thread. This is just what I looking into a couple days ago

  2. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by IRON MAN View Post
    Wicked thread. This is just what I looking into a couple days ago
    Now just build a car! Or have you got one picked out to start building?

  3. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by fugu View Post
    Now just build a car! Or have you got one picked out to start building?
    I have a vehicle picked out for each type or racing, now just to figure out what I want to race. Auto cross, drag or Drift. I'm leaning towards drag because that's my jam. Grown up with it and love it, but it gets expensive. I'd love to get into Drift or auto cross though

  4. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by IRON MAN View Post
    I have a vehicle picked out for each type or racing, now just to figure out what I want to race. Auto cross, drag or Drift. I'm leaning towards drag because that's my jam. Grown up with it and love it, but it gets expensive. I'd love to get into Drift or auto cross though
    Auto-x is likely the cheapest form of competition, drifting gets pricey when you start wall tapping..

    -the faster you go
    -the longer you live

  5. #23
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    I would like to add that while there might be more cost/risk associated with racing a more modern vehicle, by all means go for it if thats what you want to do. I had a great, clean season road racing my evo and would love to see more modern vehicles out. The public loves it too.

  6. #24
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    You forgot the most important parts for building a race car.

    1. dont build one
    2. buy one thats already built

    you will only save yourself 12391290839102 dollars.
    Quote Originally Posted by Terminator View Post

    I just don't see the reason to do this. Sure it probably didn't cause any damage...but......why?

    Just the amount of work it would take to clean the car would make me not want to do it. Can you imagine how much shit is in the engine compartment, suspension, etc? No thanks.

    Jamie
    Jamie - Spends more time cleaning his tool rather than using it..

  7. #25
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    reiterating:

    when selecting a car, build a car that is good for a class, not a car you want to build. this needs to be repeated a billion times imo. You're going road racing, and the point of road racing is to compete (or you're really just doing glorified lapping?), so pick a car that has a chance of competing well.

    You may think a 1980 Firebird is the cats pajama's for racing, or you happen to have a toyota avalon you got for free, but imo you're throwing your money away if you are building either of those cars into race cars and likely wont have fun if you actually want to race, because some cars class horribly, and some class very well. pick a car that is competitive for the class.

    1.6L miatas class well for IT3, but 1.8L miatas class poorly for IT2.
    DC2 integra Type R's would probably class the best of any car in IT2, and RSX Type S would class well for IT2 as well, but a base RSX would be class as bullshit comparitively (well techincially it'd be ok, but the Type S would have 40hp).
    a 1995 mustang is a bucket of ass as far as road racing and classing goes around here thx to low hp with high displacement (most domestic cars are actually thx to poor power to displacement, with the exception of building a GT1 car).

    basic rule of thumb is try to find stuff with good power for the displacement and then check the rules to make sure when you calculate what class it goes into, its not just a few points over the threashold for the next higher class.

    Once you selected a car, when building it, build it to the rules. dont build it how you want it.

    That's awesome you got a free BBK for a car and are planning to keep it stock besides that, but you just took a car wiht the performance of IT, and now put it into the ST class with cars that actually have big power. Your BBk is a piece of shit that is making your car uncompetitive because you're in the wrong class for every other bit of the car and if you want to actually race, and not do a glorified lapping day, that BBK needs to come off. Likewise its cool you want to put a cam in your engine, but that is the wrong mod to do unless you're dropping 10g+ into the car everywhere else. you dont need a mod like that if you're racing on a budget because cheap classes dont allow for mods like that, and you dont need mods like that to go fast. power isn't everything. basically, put what you think is cool aside and only mod what you're allowed to for the class you are in, and mod everything you are allowed to. this is road racing, not a car show; the build doesn't need to be 'cool'; it only needs to make the car fast for the class, not handicap it.


    Pick something with parts taht are easy to get wtih a lot of local support you have access to.

    Yes, you may love your 1980s citreon, but how are you going to rebuild the engine, or get a replacement engine, or find rotors for it, inbetween race weekends. and how much is it going to cost to rebuild all that crap or source that crap out for something no one has heard of.

    pick something that has parts that are cheap and readily available. If you are doing a GT1 build, tried and true says you buy a stock car with a LS in it. why? becasue a tube chassis is cheap as hell to maintain and that engine is a dime a dozen and your car that cost you 20g will keep up with 911s that cost 100k. and when those get in an accident that cost 50k to fix, your car will cost maybe 5-10g to fix in a similar crash.

    Reason #2049 of why I road race a FC RX7 and not something cooler. Parts are free, and there is this guy named conroy who has an acerage full of parts, and a library full of knowledge. If you have 43 friends that live and breath bmw's and are constantly working on them, have infinite parts for them and knowledge, race one of those. If you dont know anyone with the car and have no parts bazaar yuorself or ifninite amount of knoweldge on the car, IMO, dont race that unless you have deep pockets.


    IF you are on the fence what class you watn to end up in, pick a car that is able to be competitive in a lot of classes. RX7s, can be built to be competitive in IT, ST, or even GT classes, and more hten one GT class. the same could be said for a 944, no reason that car wouldn't be good in IT, ST, or GT.

    you can't make a fwd car competitive in GT1. you can't make a big block car competitive in IT or ST imo.

  8. #26
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    Probably time for an update to this thread.

    Next year the NASCC is changing the classing rules to harmonize with NASA rules. That means displacement is less of a concern in selecting a vehicle, but having a car that has a good basic suspension is more important. The new rules are based on power to weight and it seems pretty easy to bump up and down classes. I'm going to end up in ST3 which has a weight to power ratio of 9:1 (give or take with mods). There should be a pretty good field of cars in this region, but we'll see next year.

    More details here: https://www.nasaproracing.com/rules

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