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Thread: 93 2.4l Shadow Part 2 : Project Shadicorn

  1. #1
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    Default 93 2.4l RWD Shadow Part 2 : Project Shadicorn

    Part 1: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...4l-DOHC-Shadow - Minus pictures now. Thanks Photosuckit

    Well it's been a while and though rather quiet on the forum the voices in my head have never stopped. This will be the continuation of my 1993 2.4l Shadow swap. As you will see the transformation will be big enough that I feel it should be dubbed Part 2 : Project Shadicorn and have its own build thread.

    The back story: This car began as a 3.0l shadow that I changed to be 2.4 turbo running a best of 10.79@135.9. Late in the 2012 season I performed a spectacular 1-2-1 shift going down the track which left the car dead on the sidelines. Getting home I couldn't find any mechanical damage except for all the flywheel bolts had come loose. I also lost the crank signal but since I had plans to upgrade the turbo and header I just pulled the engine instead of troubleshooting it at the time. A new acreage, a second kid and a whole bunch of life later and I am finally able to start on things again. What I did find is that when you have 4 years to think about things a simple turbo change has the capability to really explode. The worst part of that time is going to SDAC (Shelby Dodge Auto Club national convention) and taking about possibilities which really make your imagination sore. As a result of discussions at SDAC 25 I made the choice to go RWD and really try to challenge my design and fabrication skills.

    In July of 2015 I began the design process and modelling which gets me to where I'm at now. Many, many.......many iterations later I have what I feel is very close to a final design. As you can see there are still missing components but I thought I would start the thread now to allow others to follow in some final stages of the design and FEA as I check off components as complete and ready for fabrication. This will not be as fast as my other build, which still took 2 years, but I hope to come out with something I'm really proud of. My current goal is in the 4-5 year mark so hopefully I can keep everyone interested that long.

    For now here are some screen shots. I'll come back and post my current design specs and hopefully be able to answer any questions that may arise. I'm looking forward to the whole process and I hope my mom will be proud.













    Last edited by turboshad; February 2nd, 2018 at 10:54 AM.

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    iAvery (September 2nd, 2016), pry4sno (September 3rd, 2016)

  3. #2
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    Sweet, I loved it before, and I love lots of custom work, I'll be watching this for sure, just hope the updates are often enough that I don't forget about it

    Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
    Wasting peoples time, cluttering threads and killing threads since May 2008.

    Just call me Thread Jack AKA Captain OT.


    current ride: WR Blue 2002 Subaru WRX with a 3" catless turbo back exhaust and an AEM cold air intake

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    Holy crap.

    Been wondering where this went.

    Im excited for whats to come. Loved reading through your previous build.

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    DJ!!You're back!

    Love the RWD concept, /subscribed

    -the faster you go
    -the longer you live

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    Thanks everyone. I'm never really sure how this forum will react to my car. Shadows aren't exactly main stream but for some odd reason I have a love for them.

    dc2696, how to you find those open style flares for rock chips? I've been seeing it allot while looking at different wide body styles as I try to choose how I want to build mine. Is there a practical reason to have them open in the rear?

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    The one universal truth about this forum, and really, ANY car forum...

    All true petrolheads have a profound respect for anyone, and any car, that's hand-built with the owners passion, blood, sweat, tears... etc.


    Doesn't matter if it's a Viper with $100K in mods... Or, a truly unique and custom one-off Shadow from decades past.


    The amount of Fab you've done on this car is unreal. Much respect.
    Quote Originally Posted by LOLJDM View Post
    Rob with an awesome post as always.

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    Quote Originally Posted by turboshad View Post
    Thanks everyone. I'm never really sure how this forum will react to my car. Shadows aren't exactly main stream but for some odd reason I have a love for them.

    dc2696, how to you find those open style flares for rock chips? I've been seeing it allot while looking at different wide body styles as I try to choose how I want to build mine. Is there a practical reason to have them open in the rear?
    Well the rear portion of that fender is 3M so no problem there, the biggest issue is small rocks gathering on my side skirts and any amount of moisture instantly makes the entire side filthy.

    Practical on a racecar, yes. On a street car, chicks (lets be real, dudes mostly) dig em?

    -the faster you go
    -the longer you live

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    Quote Originally Posted by dc2696 View Post
    Well the rear portion of that fender is 3M so no problem there, the biggest issue is small rocks gathering on my side skirts and any amount of moisture instantly makes the entire side filthy.

    Practical on a racecar, yes. On a street car, chicks (lets be real, dudes mostly) dig em?
    Thanks for the feedback.


    During my learning and research I found it very easy to come across definitions and calculations for all aspects of the suspension geometry. Finding actual starting points, on the other hand, was very challenging. I know every project is different but it was quite difficult to even find a good place to start. So here is what I've designed the suspension to and will begin with. I'll throw in some explanations of why I came up with the number where I can to a: maybe help someone else out who is reading this and b: to help me remember why I did it. I have no idea right now if these numbers are going to work well but it is my best educated guess of where to start and I can let you know how it actually works in a few years. If anyone with more experience then I sees any grave errors please chime in with an explanation. Thanks.

    Front suspension specs:

    Ride Height - 4.5" because a speed bump is 4" though I will still be doing my best to avoid all of them.

    Travel - 2.5" in bounce and rebound. No real scientific reason, it just seemed like a good place to start when reading about other people’s builds.

    Static Roll center - Right now it is sitting approximately 3.06" above the ground. My goal was to have 1" of RC movement per 1" of body travel and I didn't want it to transition past the ground plane. The 1:1 goal came from the attempt to maintain similar jacking forces throughout the whole suspension travel to keep the handling predictable. I was able to achieve an average of 1.04"/1" of bounce and 1.12"/1" of rebound. This may change slightly by the end but for the most part should stay in this range.

    Scrub Radius – Scrub was a hard one. The information is so vague that I almost had to take the first bit of solid numbers I could find. There are a million sites explaining what it is and a half million saying some is good but not too much but no one says how much is some. I finally found a source stating Carroll smith uses 10% of the wheel width and a guy name Joe Cheng says 5%. Well to keep the KPI from getting bigger than I wanted I settled on 1.24” with a 10” wide wheel.

    King Pin/Steering Angle Inclination (KPI or SAI) – This is a big compromise as it has to do mostly with packaging while trying to get the scrub radius you want. The unfortunate part is KPI will add camber as the wheel turns in both directions. Great when it is the inside wheel but not so good when it’s the outside. Therefore you don’t want to large of a KPI so I settled on 10 to get the scrub radius down to 1.24”. 12 would have put me just under 1” of scrub radius but I chose to sacrifice some scrub for less KPI. Good choice? I have no idea.

    Caster Angle – Caster will combat KPI as it will subtract camber from the outside wheel and add to the inside wheel. The scrub radius and mechanical trail set by the caster contribute to the self centering of the wheels. Too much caster resulting in too much mechanical trail can result in a car that is hard to turn. This is one reason you also don’t want to much KPI. It seems that a caster angle of about half your KPI is a good place to start so I currently have a zero point of 6 with +/- 2 of adjustment. Hopefully that will be enough.

    Camber – I’m going to start with -1.5 of static camber with an adjustability of +1.5/-2.0. I think this will be fine to play around with.

    I still need to run through some more dynamic geometry tests but I don’t see these numbers changing all that much. Once again I am really just making my best educated guess. The true test will be once the car is together and drivable. I may fluke it off or find myself making new parts to get the car handling how I want.

    Also, here are a couple shots of the intake and header. The intake (if I can pull it off) will have a carbon inlet to a water to air IC that goes into a carbon plenum to tapered ITBs. I think this will be one of or the most challenging part of the build. I’m excited to try it and here’s to hoping I don’t spend too much money failing. The header will be 1 7/8” thin wall SS with my own version of a quick spool valve. I don’t like any of the ones I’ve seen since they don’t utilize the advantages of a twin scroll exhaust keeping the pulses separated. I am going to make my valve in the collector so the division is maintained under high boost. It also will not have any additional hardware in the flow of one of the scrolls like the butterfly valve types do. The plan is to control it with a servo motor so I can write a spool curve in the ecu and tune it for smooth operation.









    Last edited by turboshad; July 12th, 2017 at 12:07 PM.

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    WOW.... looks like this took some time and effort
    Automotive Parts Technician

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