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Thread: Hot Fozz

  1. #91


    Man, that is a good idea Kenny. Thank you. I'll be ordering in slimmer fans hopefully by the end of the day today - in the mean time, reached out to the guy who lent me his rad to see if I could borrow it until they show up.

    In other news, taking a quick lunch break, but my engine is bay is starting to look like it's.. functional. Still trying to figure out where a few plugs go, but a number of them are just from pieces I haven't put back in yet (Looking at the MAF connecter like an idiot..)

    If I don't start it today, I'll be starting it tomorrow.

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Nov 2007


    cheeyah boiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
    Quote Originally Posted by LOLJDM View Post
    Rob with an awesome post as always.

  3. #93


    Well shit.

    Here's the update first off,

    It LOOKS like it's coming together.. I didn't have time to spend on it all of last week, so my projected start date of last Saturday ended up being a week later.

    But seriously, looking way better. And this is without the clean up project of the future to make the engine ba

    $400 worth of fluid.. but at least that's a good sign. A sign that things are indeed coming together.

    Exhaust was on a while ago but here are some photos,

    Fujibitsu makes a nice quieter muffler, but still shows off the Boxer rumble.

    Old fuel pump vs new(Ish/er) Walbro 255

    And the freshly topped up premium fuel.

  4. #94


    So this is a nice before/after..

    And this is my current to do list:

    1. Buy new engine mount nuts and thread them on.
    2. Attach rear end link
    3. Put the nut on for the passengers side rack & pinion
    4. Go over all nuts and bolts, insure they're tight.
    5. Take apart rear brakes, get the e-brake hooked up
    6. Bleed all the brakes

    But this is the deal - my dash is still apart and there are 5-6 connectors and I can't seem to find their home.

    I've actually went to go start the beast up again. Certain things (Tail lights etc) I'm not hugely worried about being plugged in, but right now with the battery connected the dash tells me that doors are ajar. Upon putting the key in the steering column unlocks and allows full steering movement, but if nothing happens electronically. The dash cluster doesn't do the STi sweep, it doesn't actually light up at all. So when you go from "ACC" to "ON" nothing happens. Plus there's one long wire that is obviously added on by the person who originally merged the harness that I have no idea where it goes.

    That's my dilemma right now. Found a great wiring diagram, but doing as much research as I can to get over this.. errr, slight hurdle.

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Dec 2010


    $400 of fluid and its all just that shit? i would have expected some premium motul fluid or something at that price

  6. #96


    $20/L for Motul was $100 right there, the oil was $90 (1.5 are for my wifes car), antifreeze $50, brake fluid... stupid crap adds up quick.

  7. #97


    Ahhhhhhhh BUDDY!

    I'll start this post off with a little video

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Dec 2010


    wow congrats. whats next? just putting everything back together?

  9. #99


    Still have my list of things to do, first up is tearing apart those breaks and running the e-brake cable properly. Then bleed them all so I have pressure to my clutch again - which at the moment there is none. It drops to the floor as there is no fluid in the master/slave.

    In regards to the failed start last week, knew that there was something electrical and started looking over these diagrams again and again..

    Turned out it was these two wires - hence my issue with the door ajar lighting up, but no response from the ignition. In the process of ripping out the old EJ and getting everything out, I don't recall cutting these wires, but I obviously did. Probably didn't think I was going to use that old harness but ended up using the same steering column.

    This build thread is far from over - clean up those few issues, and then in a month i'll be pulling the engine to put in a new clutch. After that I'll drive around until the next oil change and then get it tuned - currently pushing 16.5PSI I would like to get to 18-19 depending on how everything is handling. Should be in the 330-350AWHP range after that but I would like to eventually get a dyno run in to find out the exact.

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