| Fiberglassing Help - Click HERE for Original Thread |
| high school |
| Im building a set up, and i have everything cut out and fitted, now i just need to finish it off. Im just fiberglassing on top of MDF, so im pretty sure all i need to do is wrap the peices in fleece and douce it in resin.. is this correct? |
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| prophet_ca |
| yes then be prepared to sand, like you have never sanded before |
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| Neo-Blue99GASE |
| break out the elbow grease or electric sander my friend |
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| h22civic |
| Temp and cleanliness are critical for fiberglass to bond and harden correctly. Be very careful grasshopper. |
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| WeDgE |
| Use t-shirt material instead. Once you have the outer shell finished, glass the rest from the inside if possible...it will cut down on the amount of sanding you need to do exponentially. |
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| Transporter |
| if you don't do it the way it sounds "wrap the peices in fleece and douce it in resin." you can reduce sanding to just light buffing to remove glaze to finish your project!!! |
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| wonderbread |
| here's the way I went about it. after you have your frame built, mount your baffle on dowels or what not, in the position you want the face of the driver positioned. then, stretch fleece (you can use sweatpants, t-shirts, cotton fibre, fleece material, anything porous) and hot glue gun it down to the MDF frame. I used a light sweatpant like material from Wallyworld. Make sure that you stretch it tight enough to eliminate any wrinkles. Next, mix resin and catalyst in a container (something you can throw out after :) plastic buckets work well. Mix only a small amount at a time, as you will need a few tries to get the proportions right, dependant on room temperature, etc. Use those 38 cent throw away paintbrushes to SOAK the "fleece" in resin. Let that dry. Do it again. Now, you are ready to take the fibreglass matting, tear it into smallish pieces, soak it in resin and lay it on the now hardened fleece. Do a couple layers, make it fairly thick. Use lots of resin :) Rigidity is your friend. Then comes the incredibly laborious process of doing the Bondo (body filler) sanding, and doing the filler again :). When you are done with that, sand sand sand until your fingers bleed. Then sand some more. Personally, I just had it done to a reasonable level, and am now going to texture paint it with the spray style texture paint. |
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| WeDgE |
Didn't Mark glass your box? ;)
And is that damn thing done yet?! lol |
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| wonderbread |
I glassed, he did the bondo :p... notice I said no where that I did the bondo :p
Also, I'm selling it with the driver and the amplifier, I'm getting a new car soon.
Weiner |
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| WeDgE |
quote:
Originally posted by wonderbread
I glassed, he did the bondo :p... notice I said no where that I did the bondo :p
Also, I'm selling it with the driver and the amplifier, I'm getting a new car soon.
Weiner
Alright, alright, I believe you... ;)
All that work and you haven't even listened to it...man... :p |
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| wonderbread |
ya, i know...
but to be fair - mark did most of the work, I just spent most of the money. In the end, it's most likely that I'll sell it all to a friend, so I will get to hear it. And install it most likely. |
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| 180drifter |
quote:
Originally posted by wonderbread
Use lots of resin :) Rigidity is your friend.
Do not use lots of resin, this will make it very rigid and very brittle! |
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| wonderbread |
| I used plenty... then make sure you go with plenty of fleece in it as well :) when you get to that part. Then body filler... |
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| WeDgE |
quote:
Originally posted by 180drifter
Do not use lots of resin, this will make it very rigid and very brittle!
You need to thoroughly soak the layers of mat and fleece in order to gain strength...this equates to alot of resin...you'll want it fairly thick for it to be strong...
Just don't use too much catalyst...it'll heat up the resin mixture and make the fiberglass brittle. |
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| high school |
| well through reading this, and info from other boards, as well as friends, i decided against fiberglassing the box, as im too lazy and not experienced enough. The amp rack however, is still a go, but i just smeared it with bondo, not fiberglass. I did this cuz all i wanted was a rounded look to the edges, and a super smooth glossy look once its painted, which painting over mdf wont do. Bondo is also 1000x easier to sand. The bondo is doing the job nicely, however i havent been able to finish sanding since its so damn cold out. Thanks for ur help everybody! |
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| tt398 |
quote:
Originally posted by high school
Im building a set up, and i have everything cut out and fitted, now i just need to finish it off. Im just fiberglassing on top of MDF, so im pretty sure all i need to do is wrap the peices in fleece and douce it in resin.. is this correct?
Wait a second!
Use the proper materials.
1) First make sure the boxes are perfectly sanded and cleaned of all dust etc.
2) get some fine fiberglass cloth (NOT roving material) and some veiling cloth. Get some high quality polyester resin and hardener. Get some ribbed aluminum rollers and some methylene chloride sovent for clean up. You'll need plastic mixing containers, clean mixing sticks, safety glasses, rubber gloves, and a chemical respirator. These chemicals are TOXIC and hazardous to the skin and eyes.
3) Lay the catalyzed resin on to the box with a cheap disposable paint brush. Cut the fine fiberglass cloth with scissors to fit a box side with 1" extra on each dimension. Center the fiberglass cloth on the wetted box - and carefully lay it down. Gently brush on some catalyzed polyester resin until the resin is just "wetted out". Be sparing on the resin application. Fold the 1" spare cloth on to the adjacent sides of the box and "wetout" the cloth with the catalyzed resin. Carefully roll the "wetted out" cloth with the ribbed aluminum roller. Clean the aluminum roller with the methylene chloride solvent.
4) Move to the next side and repeat step three. Repeat until all sides are finished.
4) Wait till the box is dry (overnight) and sand with 120 grit paper on a cheap electric orbital sander. Clean the box. Repeat the sanding with 220 grit. Clean the box.
5) Make sure the box is absolutely CLEAN and DRY. Repeat the process as outlined in step 3 - but this time use the VEILING CLOTH. this stuff is very fine - it looks like silk sheets.
6) Repeat the process as outlined in step 4 - but start at 220 grit, then go to 320 grit then 440 grit. After finished make sure the box is absolutely clean and dry. Yuo should strive for "glass-like smoothness" from your sanding!
7) You can now spray paint the box for a matte look, or spray paint and the power polish the box for a "piano lacquer gloss" look.
Hope this helps.
cheers!
:beer: :beer: :beer: |
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| Darkrid3r |
Shit dudes!!!
I want to learn fiberglass but just dont know where to start.
Perhaps we should add this type thing to the monthly build list?
Anyone willing to teach me on kick plates or something, shit ill break out the visa what do we need??
email me.
wlacroix@bigbadmatrix.com
Dark |
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| quadraphonic |
| How about posting some good stores for materials.. all i keep finding is Bondo brand. |
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| newtuner |
| Well I went shopping around the city to find fiberglass supplies, this is what I found. I fist went to a shop called the fiberglass store it's in Edmonton 99st and 51 ave on the north side of 51 ave. He was selling FG Matt @ 6.00 / yard 50" wide. FG Cloth 12.00 / yard 50" wide. and Resin 35.00 / Gallon. The Resin seems to ba at a good price there.(the guy was kinda an ass to me so I will not be buying from him, but the prices are still ok). Partsource had Matt @ 10.99 / square yard they also have the cloth but I didn't get the price. Resin 1 quart/15.99 and the gallon @ 41.00. They also had Kitty hair 3 lbs/12.99(this is used for a thick build up) and a bodyfiller (lightwieght) 750/7.99(they guy at partsource said it was better cuz the bondo brand stuff was drying on the shelves before it was even opened) Canadian Tire had both the cloth and the matt sold by the meter square, the cloth 5.99 and the matt 7.99(this was the only place that had the cloth cheaper than the matt) As for Home Depo don't waste your time they do not sell any Fiberglass stuff. They are good for getting everything else. For example gloves, brushes, sand paper, mask, tape and anything else you might need. As for myself I think I will buy the cloth from Canadian Tire and use the Resin and bodyfiller from Partsource. This is some places that sell this stuff if you guys know anywhere else let me know. |
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| Darkrid3r |
New, make sure you post lots and lots of pictures of your builds.
Dark |
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| newtuner |
| Ya i made up a cardomain site so I would have somewhere to post up the pictures. My plan is to do a step by step build up with lots of pictures. I will say one thing I have never done this , so it might not be the best way of doing it. I figure half the fun is in learn how to do it. I just have to wait until it nice and warm so I can work in the garage without freezing my ass off. |
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| Transporter |
| if you are looking for good prices go to boat craft |
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| BlueTurboEGG |
The only place you need to go is Viking Plastics LTD, they have everything you ever need, for decent pricing all in one store. no fancy show rooms, just a storefront witha huge supply and knowledgable staff.
11004-166ast
484-6827
I wne there when I built my solid motor mounts, he knew exactly what I needed, made a few recommendations, and a few different products he had avaiable. |
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| Transporter |
| what did you make your motor mounts out of? |
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| BlueTurboEGG |
a 70 durometer casting resin.
Vibrates more than a '70's VW Rabbit, but it does the job. |
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| SplineZ |
Ive always heard that solid mounting your engine is bad. You can cause cracks in mounts and break bolt holes..
does this stuff have ANY give? Why didnt ya use polyeurathane engine mounts?
I cant wait to bust out the lathe my dad just bought, I can make bushings like a mofo now :D
James Z
quote:
Originally posted by BlueTurboEGG
a 70 durometer casting resin.
Vibrates more than a '70's VW Rabbit, but it does the job.
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