| Mekanik22 |
| Someone told me that if you hit certain SPL's in a car, then you have to start taking out windows and putting plexiglass in, and put "concrete" in the doors at stuff. Anyways, how many watts do you have to be running to make you have to do these extreme mods? One last question I have is do your subs have to be in a box? An example, say your running (this is a bit much, but only an example) two 3000 watt subs or something, can you just build a box so the subs are on top of the box as opposed to being inside? Do you have to port still even though the sub is on to the top of the box? |
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| ManHunter |
You wanna swap your windows for plexi or lexan so they don't explode. The factory windows should survive 150-155Db. Beyond that you might wanna replace them. The concrete in the door is to help attain higher Db by providing a better barrier to the sound waves, to keep them in the car. It also makes the doors harder to pop open by the sound pressure levels.
MH |
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| weiner |
| i would calll the guys at FX audio. they have quite a few customers who have done top 5 at the world finals. they've built a few 160dB plus cars using the stock interior. |
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| ManHunter |
Yep, Darcy from Fx Audio is awesome. But not cheap :)
MH |
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| Z3r03rr0r |
| I've seen a truck with stock (modified for install purposes) interior that was hitting 168Db. and about the subs it depends on the type of sub and what type of box set up they are best suited for |
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| Neo-Blue99GASE |
Ok. Well you dont usually have ot worry about stuff liek that unless your seriously thinking of turning yoru car into a sound comp beast. For the cement idea, its also used to help reduce vibrations. That, dynamat, rammat ( to some extent) , hell even foam are all put into doors and spaces to fill the voids so that you can get better and louder sound, and help reduce rattles. Put it this way, unless your car is shaking and rattling like absolute crazy, you need not worry about replacing windows and such. As for a box idea. Really you can do pretty much anything. You can have open air subs, where the magnet part (or cone ) of the sub is facing in your trunk without a box, or other ideas.
Heres a little bit of advice as well. Dont rate everything on watts. Unfortunatly its incredebly inaccurate on how a system performs. More or less though, id imagine you would have to put over 5000$ retail into a setup to hit that 150 or so mark. More or less, id image around 2500 to 3000W rms output from your amps to get that 150. |
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