| NOS, in a stock engine? - Click HERE for Original Thread |
| MikeSee |
I've heard I can put enough NOS into my engine to boost it by half of my stock horse power, is that true?
I'm new to the whole idea of NOS, just curious really.
Basically what I'm asking is how much NOS is too much, on a stock engine? |
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| 2000z |
Okay, before someone lays the smackdown on you,
What kind of car?
What are your goals?
How much do you have to spend?
NOS is pronounced "Nitrous"
You will "PROBABLY" be safe with a 50hp shot, if you have colder plugs, premium fuel, an MSD RPM window switch and fuel pressure cut off switch. You will probably need a new clutch soon after and may need a programmable ignition(MSD DIS 2) to retard timing depending on what kind of car you have. You'll also definetely want a bottle heater and possibly a purge kit.
MOST, not all, cars will handle a 50-75 hp shot of nitrous if you prepare for it properly.
You're really better off finding a forum or site specifically for your car to find this information. Also, when you do find a forum about your car, please save the sanity of everyone there and use the search button. |
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| MikeSee |
thanks, a mitsubishi lancer ralliart
yeah NOS is shorter than Nitrous, Nitrous Oxide System.. i knew that much, heh
So basically I should just have it installed by a professional and pay for it? |
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| high school |
If you dont know anything about it, search and read articles before you buy anything, so u have somewhat of an idea so some shop doesnt try to rip you off. And yes pro install would be a good idea if youre not mechanically inclined.
As far as doubling your HP goes, its really not likely, as im pretty sure a lancer has more than 50-75hp. 2000z is correct, running anything more than a 50-75 shot can be dangerous for your engine. If you want to run anything larger, ull need to build up your engine a bit, but thats another topic. And everything else 2000z mentioned is correct.
and an FYI... NOS is a company, just like Nitrous Xpress, Zex, etc etc, not a shortened word for nitrous.
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| 2000z |
First, sweet car. They sound like a quick ride for a great price.
Second, no no no no...... do not pay for a "professional" installation. A nitrous kit is not rocket science. I know you can find someone who has done it before that will be willing to help for $50 or a case of beer and some pizza. If you can't I know a few people who may be interested that have installed more than one kit.
If you really want to pay for a professional install, call Apex Performance or Pro Drag Performance, both great shops.
The Ralliart is fairly new so there may not be a lot of info on it. That means you will DEFINETELY want to get a dyno tune right after you get the kit installed. Apex has a dyno and like I said, they are great guys who will be able to help you figure out exactly what mods you'll need to safely run a nitrous system.
Basically, the mods I mentioned will give you a great safety net to run nitrous, you just want to start small (35 shot) and slowly increase on the dyno to make sure you're not detonating.
Also, I would reccomend a Nitrous Express wet kit.
Good Luck! |
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| stealth |
| Also dont forget what kind of nitrous you want, wet or dry. |
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| LaYiN_FrAmE |
ok first of all can i ask y u would want nos in a stock engine? even if it is a ralliart lancer, the internals arent bulletproof
ive seen an article of a group of people who rented a stock neon, put the tanks in the boot and ran the lines through the seats, thru the cockpit and hooked up the system that way, ran a few quick passes, took everything out and returned it to the rental place. but that was just for laughs, they werent actually serious
but yeh, im taking u actually wanna get nitrous on a dead stock engine, spray all day and expect to have a fast car? i can think of a million other *safer* mods that u can do instead of nos, that would get decent gains that u could run full time.
so yeh to answer ur question, any nos is too much if ur shooting it constantly to get ur "50% power increase" on a stock engine. but if u really wanted to id suggest u strengthen all ur internals to get a decent base, or u could save money and drop a turbo halfcut in so u can boost all day and not worry about blowing anything |
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| MikeSee |
well i was thinking of nitrous just for racing ocassionally.
It's either that or just simple things like cold air intake or turbo/supercharging. I just wanna raise the horsepower some first. if i didn't get nitrous what would you guys recommend for just everday HP boosting.
Cold air intake, turbo.. etc.. any ideas would be splendid.
I'm more of a hardcore sound guy, (subs and such) but i wouldn't mind a littler performance modification as well, thats all. |
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| Transporter |
you can't compare CAI to turbo...one is simple to do other is pretty extensive setup. The fastest and cheapest way usually to get more HP is to put in nos..turbocharging a car is expensive..it requires you to pick out the right type of turbo, intercooler, oil cooler and variour other parts to make it work, upgrade fuel mapping... you have seriouly think about what you re going for..casu eyou can't go in it for half way ..either you go turbo or you go nos..you have limitation..which may include price and engine reliablity.
switching to CAI in is like puting a car fresherin your car..it i simple..and will not do much put look pretty..you might feel a lil jolt/kick when u step on it...that is it..your fuel ecomy might imporove or stay the same..your exhaust will sound a lil louder and your engine will make more noise in the bay as it sucks in air faster...
while sticking nos in ur car give your more of kick when you go wide open ..it is temp.. thing..empty tank mean things all go back to stock...
turbo you can't turn off..you can resist from spooling it up..put it will constantly put pressure on the exhaust gases and intake gases...
so do lil reserach figure how much u are willing to put into start up of your new found thrill to go lil fast...and figure how much maintenace required..and how long do u want your car engine to last...then go from there.
CAI is the simplest was to free up some HP very common to do and pratically done by everyone, low maintenance. |
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| LaYiN_FrAmE |
whenever i get a new car i always like to do the "ins & outs" first. engines are basically big air pumps, and most stock engines are fairly restrictive. reworking the intake and getting an exhaust system to match the type of engine u have is always the best was to let the engine breathe better
ill say this from the start, i hate nos. sure its ok for taking down the strip IF ur car is already running under say 12 secs, but i find it pointless and cheating for anything slower, or for daily driving for that matter.
if uve got money i would say go turbo. if ur motor is na from the factory, and ur not sure how strong the block is, i wouldnt suggest just bolting a turbo onto the manifold. it may be cheaper now, but in a year or so when ur motor blows, u will regret it
try sourcing a half cut from an importer, and u might even be lucky enough to find a gearbox too. if u dont know what a half cut is its basically everything from the windscreen forwards. engine, computer, loom. im not sure what sort of engine the new ralliart lancers have in them from the factory, but over here there are 3 main engine swaps that people do with lancers etc.
theres the 4G63 dohc turbo engine (from evo's). its a 2L turbo engine and does about 160kw (around 215hp) at about 6500rpm. and it fits into most lancers with very little hassle
if u want to go a bit cheaper theres the 4G93 1.8L dohc turbo from the older vr4 models. the vr4 was 4WD, but the engine also comes in FWD. good for around 140kw
then theres the MIVEC engines, which are becoming more and more popular over here. in japan it is an option in lancers, mirages and fto's. the 4G92 dohc MIVEC has a smaller capacity (1.6L) but has a lot of punch to it. it gets around 130kw at 7500rpm with about 170nm of torque whilst safely revving at 7k rpm. quite popular as it gets around 80kw/L, which is enough to rival many turbocharged engines
they are the most popular swaps to do with mitsu's. hope that helps |
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| 2000z |
Nitrous is not cheating, regardless of what anyone may say. Dollar for dollar, you will get shafted on NA mods compared to nitrous. Intake, exhaust, will do next to nothing in terms of real world performance on the majority of NA cars. Nitrous will put 50-75, even 100 hp(depending on engine) to the wheels for well under $2000 with all the bells and whistles. For $2000 NA you might get 30 whp with a P&P head, valve job, intake, header and exhaust.
Key words, "if you've got the money". If you've got the money do whatever the hell you want. If you're on a budget and want to kick some ass once in awhile, slap that nitrous on there and go buck. |
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| Neo-Blue99GASE |
| Interesting topic, but ill take the side of other mods before nitrous. Please, as many have reminded you, just say nitrous, it sounds much better and personally, ill take a wet system over the dry 'NOS' system anyday. I wonder what Holley would think of this back when they first came out with NOS, compared to the way it is said and used today. Anywho, nitrous is still the best bang for your buck so if your looking for cheap hp, its the route to go. As others stated, and my own opinion will say stick to no more than a 50 shot. Lancers are ok but they wont handle a 75 shot like a V6 engine will, and also remember not to use it all the time. |
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| high school |
| you also have to constantly watch your guages and such to make sure everything is running well before you use it. one little mishap and u can fock something up. it happened to a guy i know. they were tuning it, the fuel lines fucked up, and boom. |
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| LaYiN_FrAmE |
quote:
Originally posted by 2000z
Nitrous is not cheating, regardless of what anyone may say. Dollar for dollar, you will get shafted on NA mods compared to nitrous. Intake, exhaust, will do next to nothing in terms of real world performance on the majority of NA cars. Nitrous will put 50-75, even 100 hp(depending on engine) to the wheels for well under $2000 with all the bells and whistles. For $2000 NA you might get 30 whp with a P&P head, valve job, intake, header and exhaust.
Key words, "if you've got the money". If you've got the money do whatever the hell you want. If you're on a budget and want to kick some ass once in awhile, slap that nitrous on there and go buck.
i said "I" think nitrous is cheating. and the reason i say nos is coz its a lot easier to type than typing nitrous all the time
me personally, i would stick to other mods before going with the nitrous. sure it may be a quick and easy way to make hp, but is it really worth it? and if u want to ahve power when ur cruising are u going to constantly let it rip and increase the chances of blowing ur motor tenfold?
i still think if u want that sort of power, go the forced induction route. it is much safer for u and ur engine, and will always have the extra power there, not just having it 'on tap' like with nitrous
and u say u could only get 30hp at the wheels with $2000 na? uve got to be joking... try some exhaust work, cai, and with that sorta money u could go for quad throttle bodies.
or better yet go the turbo route :D |
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| TrevorK |
quote:
Originally posted by MikeSee
well i was thinking of nitrous just for racing ocassionally.
It's either that or just simple things like cold air intake or turbo/supercharging. I just wanna raise the horsepower some first. if i didn't get nitrous what would you guys recommend for just everday HP boosting.
Cold air intake, turbo.. etc.. any ideas would be splendid.
I'm more of a hardcore sound guy, (subs and such) but i wouldn't mind a littler performance modification as well, thats all.
Nitrous isn't an everyday boost - unless you want to fill up the tank constantly (You know it's pretty expensive for a tank right?).
To get EVERYDAY horsepower you have to do the basics, intake/exhaust/headers/etc.....
And remember - nitrous will void the warranty, and I wouldn't doubt that they can tell if you hook up the nitrous. |
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| silverTEG |
| i love how uneducated some people are on nitrous. :blue: |
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| 2000z |
Please enlighten us instead of telling us we're stupid.
Nitrous is not some big scary, dangerous thing if it's installed right with the right safeties and tuning in place.
With NA mods you're wasting your time unless you're spending alot of money. Headwork and cams are vital to NA power and that is not cheap. Don't get me wrong, I bought an AEM for the sound and the better filter, a borla exhaust for the sound and the better flow, motor mounts for reduced wheel hop. But if you're trying to tell me I should think with some headwork, a header and an intake manifold I will be anywhere near the 200 whp I would hit with nitrous, you're kidding yourself.
Yes, to get everyday horsepower you need to do other mods. But how much everyday horsepower are you actually getting? About 25 if you're lucky(stock was REALLLLY restrictive) with header back exhaust, intake, pulley(s). That right there is the price of a nitrous system. |
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| silverTEG |
quote:
Originally posted by 2000z
Please enlighten us instead of telling us we're stupid.
did'nt mean you dude. :bthumbup: |
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| MikeSee |
quote:
Originally posted by silverTEG
did'nt mean you dude. :bthumbup:
Well I'm sorry for not being all knowing, but I highly doubt you knew everything about Nitrous the day you started to look into it.
I'm not trying to be an :asshole: I'm just trying to learn a few pointers from the people who already know about it.
So call me stupid if you'd like, sticks and stones pal -- I just want to get some facts before i do anything, isn't that what this community is all about? |
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| silverTEG |
quote:
Originally posted by MikeSee
Well I'm sorry for not being all knowing, but I highly doubt you knew everything about Nitrous the day you started to look into it.
I'm not trying to be an :asshole: I'm just trying to learn a few pointers from the people who already know about it.
So call me stupid if you'd like, sticks and stones pal -- I just want to get some facts before i do anything, isn't that what this community is all about?
:D chill out, didnt mean you either. |
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| silverTEG |
hope this helps.
"Introduction
Ahhh nitrous, the infamous black art of drag racing. Compared to the other forms of forced induction, nitrous has always been the one considered the most dangerous, but is it really that dangerous or just misunderstood? This article is not meant to persuade anyone to use or not use nitrous nor is it meant to be overly technical, its purpose is to give you a basic understanding of the fundamentals of nitrous injection so that you can make a more educated decision when it comes time to decide to walk the path of nitrous or another form of performance modification.
What is nitrous and how does it work?
In its most basic form nitrous is just an oxygen molecule combined with two nitrous molecules. It has no color or smell and will not harm the atmosphere in any way. Nitrous is stored under very high pressure in a liquid form in a tank much like a SCUBA tank. When nitrous is introduced to the normal air and pressure that we breathe it turns into a gas.
Contrary to popular belief nitrous by itself will not make any power for an engine. All the nitrous does is give the engine more oxygen to burn fuel with. When the nitrous hits the engine the additional oxygen helps to burn the fuel at a much faster rate, which in turn provides more power to drive a piston down faster in the piston chamber and thus creates more power. The key to the whole equation is fuel and how much power can be harnessed by the consumption of fuel. If this combination is not correct then it will lead to an uncontrolled bust of energy otherwise known as detonation inside the engine. When this happens one can expect to experience burnt pistons, blown rings, and thrown rods. Yes, not good at all!! This is where the problem lies with the bad reputation that nitrous has in the performance community.
Now let me make this point very clear. It is not nitrous that destroys engines but the lack of fuel (running lean) and the components of the engine itself that determine when damage will occur. That is why it is vitally important to make sure you have done the proper research and performance modifications to your car prior to injecting nitrous into your engine. We will get into recommended modifications a little later in the article but now on to the various types of nitrous injection.
Types of nitrous injection
For the purpose of this article I will cover the four main types of nitrous injection, which are dry, wet, direct port, and plate injection.
• DRY
By far the easiest to understand and use of all four types is the dry injection system so we will cover it first. Probably when you think of a street-car running nitrous you are thinking of this form of injection. Companies such as Zex and NOS have made dry systems extremely popular recently. Usually these systems are activated at wide-open throttle (WOT) and are almost as easy to use as just flooring the accelerator. A dry manifold injection system works by simply spraying only nitrous into the intake manifold. At this point, the cars fuel injectors must supply enough fuel to burn the additional oxygen.
Now, remembering what we learned earlier about fuel being the key to nitrous injection, we can see the biggest disadvantage to having a dry system. Because the cars fuel injectors are supplying the additional fuel the amount of power you can gain from a dry system is going to be limited. As a general rule of thumb you can only get a maximum of a 75 hp shot out of a dry system. Another common problem with dry kits is that they suffer from distribution problems, meaning that there is always the possibility that the cylinders will get an uneven amount of nitrous sprayed into them. This uneven distribution can cause the injection to be less potent. However, dry kits have some good advantages as well. As I mentioned above, dry kits are very easy to install and use so that means they are perfect for the nitrous beginner. Also if you opt for a Zex kit you get the benefit of a “computer controlled safety module.” Just be careful and do not let the “safety features” lure you into thinking that you are 100% safe from mishaps.
• WET
The next type of system that we will cover is the wet system. In the wet system both fuel and nitrous are mixed together before they are injected. The most common Honda/Acura wet system that you will encounter is the “single fogger” set-up but there are also plate kits, direct port injections, and multi-stage injections as well. There are several manufactures of wet nitrous systems, but the main ones are NOS and Nitrous Express. In a typical wet set-up both fuel and nitrous are delivered and separated from each other by solenoids. Once the system is activated both the fuel and nitrous are pumped into jets/nozzles that will mix the fuel and nitrous together before allowing it to flow into the engine. These systems can be either set-up to inject at WOT or at the push of a button that the driver controls.
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| MikeSee |
quote:
Originally posted by silverTEG
:D chill out, didnt mean you either.
damn.. now i feel stupid.
i just figured you meant me, because i know close to nothing about car performance -- like I said before, i do subs and amps, not intakes and headers :) heh |
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| silverTEG |
Now although wet nitrous injection does have some special problems (especially the single fogger), it is the best way to experience true nitrous power. Because the mixing of fuel and nitrous is done by the solenoids and jets, you get a more accurate shot and you do not have the limitations on a “safe” shot size like you have in a dry system. Wet systems will allow you to use any size shot of nitrous that you want, just be sure you have taken the necessary precautions with your engine. Another advantage of wet kits over dry is the multiple application methods of which we will discuss a little later. Some of the disadvantages that you can expect to see with wet kits are increased install time and costs, extra engine build up and support modifications cost, and more monitoring and maintenance of your engine.
The best thing about the wet systems in my opinion is the ability to lay down some serious power for the good old drag strip! Two of the most common ways to do this is with either a NOS Plate Kit for the Acura GSR and Honda Prelude or Direct Port systems. In terms of monster nitrous power the plate kit that NOS makes for the Acura GSR is the best bang for your buck. People who have installed the plate kit correctly can easily rival a turbocharged car any day of the week. The reason the plate kit is only available for the GSR is due to the installation requirements. Basically what happens is that a plate is installed between the two-piece intake manifold found on GSR’s or Honda Preludes. This allows the nitrous and fuel to be directly injected into the intake as opposed to jets spraying nitrous into the intake. The end result will absolutely amaze you, please trust me on this one!! In terms of shot size the plate kit ranges anywhere between 75-200 hp so there is great flexibility to be found with it. Unfortunately, all that power can cause some problems if your engine is not somewhat built or supported with the proper support modifications. We will get into what exactly is needed/recommended for each application in a little while but for now on to the last type of injection that we will discuss. The final nitrous application is direct port injection. Essentially, you will hardly ever see direct port injection on the street because it is usually a race only application. For our purposes lets keep if fairly simple and just lightly touch on it because it can get very complicated very quickly. Direct port injection works by directly spraying nitrous and fuel into each intake port on the engine independently. This makes direct port the best system to have if you need to adjust the amount of nitrous for each cylinder independently of each other. It is a very complicated injection method and is extremely challenging to install, therefore it is usually best to leave this type to the pros!
Dry vs. Wet. Which is better?
This question always comes up with every nitrous discussion. The bottom line is what is your ultimate goal? If you are just looking for a small performance increase, working with a small budget, or new to nitrous then the dry system is the best way to go. On the other hand, if you are looking for big nitrous power, building a drag car, or you feel comfortable with nitrous injection and have the money to spend to get the proper support modifications then a wet system is probably for you. If you have any doubts about nitrous at all then the best policy is to wait and decide if it is really what you want to do. If you are unsure about your decision then research some more or ride in a nitrous powered car until you feel sure about your decision. Better safe than sorry if you ask me!
Equipment Needed
In this next section we will cover the recommended equipment needed for each shot size. There has been and will always be a debate about exactly what kind of support modifications are needed for each shot. My point here is to make a list of things that will keep your engine as safe as possible. Your local performance shop or friends might tell you to add or subtract things from this list but if you follow the guidelines I am about set, you will be as safe as possible. Also, remember as with any other form of forced induction, sometimes bad things happen and even the best precautions cannot stop them but that is the risk we all run when we enter the realm of performance modifications.
The basics
In order to be as safe as possible I would recommend “the basics” for anyone running nitrous. I am also going to assume that you already have an intake, header, and exhaust installed. The basics set-up will be the same for both dry and wet applications with the exception of a 255 lph fuel pump that is recommended for a wet set-up due to the increased fuel requirements.
1. Aftermarket ignition, wires, cap, rotor, and coil. MSD is the most popular brand. If you are on a budget then the MSD 6AL will work fine but if you have some extra cash to spend then the MSD Digital 6 is very nice to have. The great thing about the Digital 6 ignition is that it will automatically retard your timing when you activate the nitrous system and it has a dual stage rev limiter all built in! **Unless you are planning on getting a Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind, then the Digital 6 is my recommended ignition.**
2. Colder spark plugs. NGK bkr7e usually work fine. Make sure to always use copper plugs and avoid platinum and make double sure to gap them correctly.
3. Fuel pressure regulator. B&M is an excellent brand to get.
4. Timing change. The rule of thumb is 2 degrees for every 50 shot of nitrous. This is always under debate but to be absolutely safe use the rule of thumb.
5. A performance clutch because the stock clutch will probably not last long.
• 60 shot or less
“The basics” should be just fine. As noted above there is a constant debate over what exactly is needed. Some people will run a 50 shot with stock everything and be just fine while others will buy some extra parts to be safe. The bottom line is use your best judgment here.
• 60-70 shot
“The basics” and make absolutely sure to adjust your timing by one or two degrees.
• 75 shot
“The basics” and make sure to have you timing kicked back at least 3 degrees. This is also the maximum shot you want to use with a dry kit so unless you just want to blow your motor keep it here for all you dry kit guys. At this level you are probably most likely to see lean conditions and detonation therefore it might be a good idea to pick up an Apexi or Fields vtec/fuel computer so that you can control your fuel flow a little more.
• 75-100 shot
At this level you have officially entered wet kit territory so “The basics” and a 255 lph fuel pump are required. Some other goodies that you might want to seriously consider would be a Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind, an Apexi or Fields vtec controller, performance brakes, and motor mount inserts. Also since at this point you are spraying quite a bit of nitrous into the engine, building up the bottom end is an excellent idea. Some things to consider here would be forged pistons, rods, and crankshaft, and a port and polished head.
• 100+ shot
Once you reach this level you must be seriously racing. Everything that is listed for the 75-100 shot is required and an engine build-up and larger fuel injectors are a must now too. You will also want to look into getting a limited slip differential kit so that you can get traction. Once you reach this level you are going to have to be very familiar and comfortable with nitrous or an accident is just waiting to happen.
Goodies to get for the nitrous kit
1. Bottle heater – a must for every nitrous user. This will allow you to keep your bottle pressure at the optimal level. NOS says 900-950psi is optimal but other brands may vary so be sure to check with the manufacturer to be safe.
2. Bottle blanket - to keep your bottle nice and warm so that you can maintain proper pressure.
3. Purge kit – so that you can remove any air that is in your nitrous lines to ensure a good shot. Also it looks really cool to purge at the line right before you pull up to the staging lights at the track! There is no better way to get a good reaction from the crowd then a nice purge before staging! Word of caution though, it looks cool but it is also a fantastic waste of nitrous so don't make it a habit of purging all the time.
4. Pressure gauge – so that you know your pressure is correct to ensure a good shot.
5. Remote bottle opener – very useful in my opinion. A remote bottle opener will allow you to open and close the bottle with a flick of a switch instead of getting out and manually turning the nitrous bottle on and off.
Well that concludes the basics lesson. Again I hope that everyone finds this article useful in some way. Now that you have a basic understanding of nitrous and how it works go out and have fun! "
-team integra.net article |
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| LaYiN_FrAmE |
quote:
Originally posted by 2000z
Please enlighten us instead of telling us we're stupid.
Nitrous is not some big scary, dangerous thing if it's installed right with the right safeties and tuning in place.
With NA mods you're wasting your time unless you're spending alot of money. Headwork and cams are vital to NA power and that is not cheap. Don't get me wrong, I bought an AEM for the sound and the better filter, a borla exhaust for the sound and the better flow, motor mounts for reduced wheel hop. But if you're trying to tell me I should think with some headwork, a header and an intake manifold I will be anywhere near the 200 whp I would hit with nitrous, you're kidding yourself.
Yes, to get everyday horsepower you need to do other mods. But how much everyday horsepower are you actually getting? About 25 if you're lucky(stock was REALLLLY restrictive) with header back exhaust, intake, pulley(s). That right there is the price of a nitrous system.
no nitrous isnt big and scary and can be safe if insalled perfectly, but IMO it can cause major problems when used on a stock na engine. personally i would never ever use nitrous on a dead stock engine
and i know that na cars arent the greatest for producing large amounts of hp, thats y i suggested a turbo conversion rather than just getting a nos setup |
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| 2000z |
| No problems more serious than forced induction would cause. I don't understand why you're saying forced induction is better for your engine than nitrous????? If anything, nitrous would be better because it only places extra strain on the engine when being used. Forced induction is always on, it can be in vaccum, but who drives like that? |
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| LaYiN_FrAmE |
quote:
Originally posted by 2000z
No problems more serious than forced induction would cause. I don't understand why you're saying forced induction is better for your engine than nitrous????? If anything, nitrous would be better because it only places extra strain on the engine when being used. Forced induction is always on, it can be in vaccum, but who drives like that?
maybe because just putting nitrous onto a stock block thats not used to it vs getting a turbo engine that has been made to withstand the excess strain put onto it by turbo
a standard n/a engine isnt strong enough to be using nitrous all/a lot of the time
but hey, if u wanna go buy urself a stocko car and put a fulli sick bodykit and massive wing, neon lights and a sick subwoofa mate, and hook up a nitrous system to a dead stock motor, go ahead. just be prepared to fork out the dosh for a new engine when the stock internals pack up and leave
(btw that comment was referring to the generation of 'ricers' that are coming thru the ranks now) |
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| silverTEG |
quote:
Originally posted by 2000z
:rolleyes:
me or layin_frame? :dunno: |
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| Transporter |
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| silverTEG |
| couldnt wait to use that could you. :thumbsdow |
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| 2000z |
I'm with you Silverteg.
Transporter- I would like to get help with writing the post. |
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| Transporter |
other than the long read in the post about nitrous which was good ..i was confused what the hell other stuff was about..like did you "shrug at me or him"
and
"i was not talking about you"
who the hell were you talking about? |
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| Neo-Blue99GASE |
| I just wanted to thank SilverTEG on his article. It manages to hit every point quite accuratly and provides significant education on nitrous. As for me, im still about all motor power :) |
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