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Signs of bad clutch? - Click HERE for Original Thread

stealth
How can you guys tell a clutch is bad without driving it?

My clutch feels to easy to push in. But there is still pressure holding the peddle up.

Any ideas what that is?

DSM
Does it harder to push in if you pump the clutch a couple of times?

PraxRX7
without driving it its impossible to know if the clutch is bad or not.

Pushing the pedal is only going to really indicate if the fluid system for the clutch is operational :dunno:

ehos
Did you have a look at the clutch when you had the engine out? You could've measured the disc wear and see if it's in spec.

Also, any oil etc on it? (It won't effect the pedal pressure, but it would be a sure sign you should replace it, it's cheap when the engine is out).

If it's easy to push in, you might need to bleed your master/slave cyls.

ehos
Also, the springs on your pressure plate maybe be worn with age. (Easier to push).

But, easier to push really doesn't mean much (ie worn or not). It might also be your clutch pedal adjustment. A few degrees can make a huge difference.

stealth
yea JP i didnt check!!! something i should of done!

ill guess ill have to wait and find out when i start driving.

Sam

Pro Drag
quote:
Originally posted by stealth
yea JP i didnt check!!! something i should of done!

ill guess ill have to wait and find out when i start driving.

Sam


Light pedal means nothing really.
You will know when your clutch is slipping, rpms will *Zing* and the car won't move forward in proportion to the RPM's, like you had pushed the clutch in, but .... didn't.

stealth
quote:
Originally posted by Pro Drag
Light pedal means nothing really.
You will know when your clutch is slipping, rpms will *Zing* and the car won't move forward in proportion to the RPM's, like you had pushed the clutch in, but .... didn't.



ahh ok thx Blaine.

DSM
But if it is soft then after pumping it a few times it gets normal it could mean that there is an air bubble in the system.

Altezza
quote:
Originally posted by PraxRX7
without driving it its impossible to know if the clutch is bad or not.

Pushing the pedal is only going to really indicate if the fluid system for the clutch is operational :dunno:



agreed

ChromeDragon
Some cars just have their master and slave cylinders set in a proportion to make the clutch easier to depress. I wouldn't be too concerned about it unless it's causing problems once the car is actually driving.

If you have an access plate that allows you to have a look at the clutch, that might be something to do while you still have the car off the road. Just peer in and see how much wear is left on the plate.

stealth
Thanks for the info. The reason I ask is because it is easier to push in than my olod engine and other mr2's that i have been in.

REFLUX
quote:
Originally posted by ChromeDragon
unless it's causing problems once the car is actually driving.


Yup, this is the best way to tell.
A test you can do is:
-When the car is drivable, come to a complete stop & put her in 4th gear
-Try to get the car to move, if it doesn't and the rpms go up your clutch is going.

A clutch pedal that is easier to push in could just mean you have a softer pressure plate

ChromeDragon
quote:
Originally posted by REFLUX
Yup, this is the best way to tell.
A test you can do is:
-When the car is drivable, come to a complete stop & put her in 4th gear
-Try to get the car to move, if it doesn't and the rpms go up your clutch is going.

A clutch pedal that is easier to push in could just mean you have a softer pressure plate

That test can be a little rough on the clutch since you're trying to slip it to get going. I prefer to cruise along at about 40-50km/h in 2nd, shift to 5th and put your foot down. If the clutch is going the revs will climb quickly and the car won't really accelerate.

REFLUX
^^^^
Cool!
More ways to check the clutch :)

arabian_ryda
i ussually put the ebrake on and start releasing the clutch in first gear and press the gas abit. puts alot of presure on the ebrake though i dont know if this is a safe way of doing it but ive done it numerous times and works great.

SilverNeonRacer
heh put it in gear and try to push the car... if it rolls your clutch is shot :P

On my old truck i totaled the tranny.. ok I didn't before i bought it the clutch was replaced and they didn't put a spacer on the input shaft so the tranny sorta spun like a top, or rather a cam shaft with the front bearing being to big.

anyhow.. all of a sudden I could breath on the clutch pedal and it would go down... but I couldn't shift.. I was told the trann chewed it'self apart.... in retro spec I think I got a line of BS cause I drove it home without the clutch, getting going was a pain, ram it into first and play with the gas pedal til it popped in, then just RPM match for the rest of the gears. I was gonna have the shp put in a new clutc as well since it was apart(at that time i didn't know it was recently replaced) and i was shown and told it was practically new.

Oh and my old swift, i could pre-load to about 3000-4000rpm, dump the clutch and she wouldn't spin, it would bog for a second then take off. When I had the clutch replaced I could pre-load at 2000rpm and spin the tires... well for the first week....

ChromeDragon
The thing about doing it my way is that if the clutch is fine, you aren't going to go and burn some of it off like you would with the slipping methods.

95IntegraRS
I think your method is the best Chrome. Thats how I've always tested the clutch.

Nightstalker
the hydro system for the clutch in the 86 went on saturday which was the suck.. I just put a new clutch in the car to.. :mad:

ChromeDragon
quote:
Originally posted by Nightstalker
the hydro system for the clutch in the 86 went on saturday which was the suck.. I just put a new clutch in the car to.. :mad:
Time to hit the junkyards.




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