| superspeed |
| alright i have this problem wiht my z when i start in the cold it just turns over...BUT in order for it to start i have to put like gasoline in the tank EVEN THOUGH i have gas in already. Its strange i have to put gas in roughly 5-10 litres for the car to start =\ and i only have this problem only every morning on a cold start! After i get it started it it will be fine driving and even parekd in the cold for an hr it will start up again jsut everytime over night it does this...what oculd be the problem?!?! |
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| Grace Too |
- Dude what year and what kind of Z?
- My suggestion is start with the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump.
-Take it to Ericksen Nissan and ask for Ron. Best tech they have got for Z's
Cheers,
Grace Too |
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| superspeed |
| also was wondering to thsoe tha tpark their z dou guys have it plugged in? and kind of things u do to it when storing it in ur home garage? |
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| ~30oZ~ |
quote:
Originally posted by superspeed
also was wondering to thsoe tha tpark their z dou guys have it plugged in? and kind of things u do to it when storing it in ur home garage?
plug it in?...I don't have a block heater and it fires up everytime:thumbup:
As for storing it...
1.) Add fuel stabilizer to a full tank of gas
2.) Jack it up if you won't be moving it till spring
3.) Cover it with a GOOD car cover
4.) Start it up ever 3 week when it's -10 or warmer.
OH make sure you *get the exhaust System hot enough to dry up any water that may be sitting in the pipes*...so hold the gas at 3000RPM or so or just rev it up a bit to get the pipes hot...that should dry the pipes up in the inside a bit...I also waxed it and cleaned it before I stored the Z away.
hope that helps!:) |
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| superspeed |
| fuelstabalizer..? so far added the ant feeze gasline.. |
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| ~30oZ~ |
quote:
Originally posted by superspeed
fuelstabalizer..? so far added the ant feeze gasline..
If you store the car away, the stabilizer makes sure the gas doesn't break-down and keeps water out of the gas tank so things don't start to rust inside. |
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| 350zr_Fan |
quote:
Originally posted by superspeed
also was wondering to thsoe tha tpark their z dou guys have it plugged in? and kind of things u do to it when storing it in ur home garage?
You are going to receive conflicting advice on this topic so you will need to do some research to reach your own conclusions. Here are the steps I took to store my 350zr for the winter:
1. Thoroughly clean the car, including the underside;
2. Wax exterior, condition interior with vinyl and leather conditioner;
3. Change Oil and filter
4. Place desicant (Sta Dri) packages inside the car;
5. DO NOT JACK UP THE CAR - this will potentially damage your struts/springs by leaving them unsprung.
6. Increase tire pressure to 45-55 lbs
7. Use Stabil to prevent gas from gumming up lines and injectors - run engine for 10-25 mins after adding to ensure it is run through the system.
8. Remove battery and use a Battery Tender to maintain charge ( note do not use a battery charger or even a trickle charger because these can damage batteries on long term storage).
9. Crack windows and cover vehicle with a car cover - if storing indoors you just need to ensure that the cover is breathable, other than that you are simply looking for a dust cover. (outdoor storage is another story).
10. DO NOT START YOUR CAR UNLESS YOU CAN RUN IT FOR AT LEAST 20 MINUTES, INCLUDING A TOTAL OF 10 MINUTES AT FULL THROTTLE.
I gathered these tips from Porsche and Mercedes recomendations for winter storage of vehicles. (Nissan is useless in this regard. They will not even make any recommendation regarding the use of a fuel stabilizer, even though it makes scientific sense regardless of the make of vehicle.) |
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| ~30oZ~ |
quote:
Originally posted by 350zr_Fan
You are going to receive conflicting advice on this topic
This is very true!...I found some very old threads about the storage and came across some info from people that know lots about their cars and that I trust very much so, so I decided to followed their steps. (they had the same car as me) but my point is, There are LOTS of different methods for different cars...so I made my own decision:dunno: It's all up to you in the end.
As a side note, If you don't start your car up once every 3 weeks or so the oil will sit at the bottom of the oil pan which will cause seals and things to dry out and F*** your car up in time. |
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| superspeed |
hmmm thanks for the advice =) now for something that came up while i was bored ...has anyone tt a na 300zx? i know this topic has been brought up millions of times on other forums and pricing is all us and i get alot of mixed thoughts on it....
if i were to tt it and i bought a tt motor from japan and it consisting:
Engine
Transmission
ECU
Uncut Wire Harness
Igniter chip
is there anythign else iw ould need besdies intercooler and piping, tt fuel pump and injectors, tt rad ?
OR
tt the na but swap out the na pistons for tt and put in tt inject, intercoo and piping , tt fuel puming tt rad etc...
and how much would it ROUGHLY run and has anyone done it themselves? |
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| Inzane |
quote:
Originally posted by superspeed
has anyone tt a na 300zx? i know this topic has been brought up millions of times on other forums and pricing is all us and i get alot of mixed thoughts on it....
is there anythign else i would need
and how much would it ROUGHLY run and has anyone done it themselves?
This topic is far too lengthy and detailed to get into here.
Your best bet is to start with twinturbo.net and find the technical write-ups on the subject. (If you find member "ConverTT" on there, he lives in Calgary and recently TT'd his Z32 convertible.)
Also, locally here, the only one I know of was an NA 2+2 that Sumaru's did a few years ago for a guy. |
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| superspeed |
| hmmm reading on convertt he acutally tt'd his na to a naTT and so fari have heard this is the CHEAPEST ROUTE but not the most reliable if i m to up the boost above 7psi =\ but i am a little more tempted on this =D |
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| MixManMash |
This is true. Twin-Turboing a VG30DE is not the same effect as swapping to a VG30DETT. The VG30DETT is a quite different beast. Doing some research on the net, you will find many differences in design between the VG30DE vs. VG30DETT.
One difference that is obvious is the compression ratio - the VG30DETT's is lower than that of the VG30DE.
This would be part of the reason why you can't boost too high with the VG30DE.
Also, the VG30DETT block has integrated oil sprayers to cool the pistons / cylinder walls.
However, I know the differences are much greater than what I have briefly listed. |
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| Inzane |
quote:
Originally posted by MixManMash
Also, the VG30DETT block has integrated oil sprayers to cool the pistons / cylinder walls.
Actually they both do (NA & TT). But slightly differently. The TT oil squirters are designed to work specifically with OEM TT pistons, where they point to a specific oil 'galley' location under the piston.
The NA block also has oil squirters but the NA pistons are lacking that design feature that the OEM TT pistons have so the NA oil squirters are aimed at a more generalized location under the pistons.
All aftermarket VG30DETT pistons are lacking that one feature of the OEM TT pistons as well so if you switch to aftermarket pistons on a TT block, its best to switch to NA oil squirters because they will work better (rather than trying to spray at something that isn't there).
I lucked out and got a set of NA oil squirters for free which will be going in to my future build. |
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| MixManMash |
| Cool. Good info to know. That is if I ever get that far with my car. |
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