| Nis13 |
ok so i have had this problem with my 92 and now my 97sh on idle the rpm will drop and go back up kinda like the engine is out of breath.. could be a leak in vacume lines i take it? manifold gasket? any one else have this problem and know what it is?
I might get it checked out tonight nonetheless and let you guys know |
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| 4thGenLude |
yeh mines done that form time to time..
not constantly though..
not enough to bother me and get it fixed |
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| redwall177 |
| you are rite it is a vaccum line or throttle gasket i had the same problem in my 4th gen so just change the gaskets and check the lines |
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| 92_WhItE_H23 |
| it could also be an array of other problems as well. My car does this as well...also on my 92 prelude this was the beggining symptoms to my main relay being blown as well as the ignitor in the distributor.. if it happens to be either of those they are easy fixes.. but check the other problems first. |
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| Jarenz |
here is a few fixes that i looked at when my was doing the same thing. Its From Preludepower.com if your lude has a bouncy idle, it could be a few things...
1. air in the coolant lines -- there's a bleed screw near the temp sensors on the thermostat housing. a 12mm wrench will open it. let the engine heat up and open that screw every few seconds until just solid coolant comes out.
2. idle screw set too high -- if the idle is too high, the ECU will try to compensate by cutting the injectors. this causes the annoying bounce. disconnect the 2P connector from the EACV. this will throw a check engine light and cause the engine to run funny. It should stabilize. Then adjust the idle screw until the warm idle is at or near 770. Turn the car off, reset the ecu, and reconnect the EACV.
3. fast idle valve -- coolant flows into this valve and operates a wax ring. the wax ring contracts or expands with the temperature of the coolant. The operation of the wax ring gives you the increased idle when cold. If this wax ring is bad, or the valve is just old and loose, then too much air will "leak" into the intake manifold, causing another high idle situation. again, the ECU will try to compensate by cutting the injectors. This will continue causing the bouncing. if you've tried the other options, there's an easy test for the fast idle valve.
take a ceral box, or anything made of the same kind of cardboard. cut a piece of the cardboard to fit between the FIV and the intake manifold. place the cardboard piece between the FIV and the intake manifold and bolt the FIV back on. let the engine heat up. if the bouncing goes away, then you know it's the FIV. If the bouncing is still there, then it's something else. Don't be afraid about the cardboard...i had that piece of cardboard in there for over 7 months with no problem. was it smart to drive around with it in? no...but, it works as a test. once you know what the problem is, take the cardboard out and put it all back together the way it was.
those are the most common bouncy idle problems. If none of those fix the issue, post a reply and i'll post the procedures for checking the EACV, coolant temp sensors, TPS, etc... |
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| Nis13 |
| thanks for the help!! :cool: |
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