| MixManMash |
Has anybody had a problem where at idle (exactly at 750 RPM), the car shakes a little bit inside the cabin, but the motor is running perfectly smooth (or so I think). If I hit the gas just a little and rev it up to around a 1000 RPM or higher, the shake inside the cabin goes away. The car has been doing it ever since I bought it (July 05).
I am guessing that my motor mounts are probably shot and if so, I think I will live with it for a while (until the motor needs to be pulled for various reasons)...
I am hoping it is nothing serious. Car does drive fine and run smooth. And the dyno that I did proved that I am getting the right amount of power out of the car.
Any advice is much appreciated... Thanks in advance. |
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| Inzane |
Hmmm.... you might want to try Gord first. He's our resident whiz when it comes to diagnosing problems like that.
Also, do you have a service manual? That will help you as well.
Its kinda late right now, getting tired and I don't have time to do some research for you right now, otherwise I'd throw some thoughts your way.
PS - you've already dynoed your car? (when?) I was hoping you'd be a candidate for our upcoming Z Club dyno day this year. We need fresh blood to keep events like that going. |
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| MixManMash |
I do have the service manual, but it didn't really help for my problem. Absolutely no trouble codes. It's a slight shake and only at idle. It's almost like being in those old Muscle Cars with the Big V8 where it shakes the inside cabin a little on idle.
I dynoed my car with the NECC in September - remember the whole episode where I was thinking that the dyno at Apex Modified might be out as it reported 280 hp and 290 lb-ft of torque for my car? http://forums.780tuners.com/showthr...;highlight=dyno
BTW, when is the EZCC dyno day? I would probably be interested as I am going to be installing Specialty Z Super Split Downpipes, Test pipes, Boost Controller and JWT Chip. But before I chip it and increase the boost, I just want to make sure that there is nothing wrong with my car.
I'll try and talk to Gord at the next meeting and get some input from him, unless you have any contact info for him (e-mail). |
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| Inzane |
quote: Originally posted by MixManMash
I do have the service manual, but it didn't really help for my problem. Absolutely no trouble codes. It's a slight shake and only at idle. It's almost like being in those old Muscle Cars with the Big V8 where it shakes the inside cabin a little on idle.
Yes, the kind of trouble you're describing, or anything to do with idle issues and hesitation, can be tricky to diagnose, especially if intermittent. BTW did you try tt.net's tech forum yet?
You might want to start by cleaning some electrical connectors (for your TPS, coolant temp sensor, etc.). Your IAC valve may be sticking too. Have you checked your spark plugs?
quote:
I dynoed my car with the NECC in September - remember the whole episode where I was thinking that the dyno at Apex Modified might be out as it reported 280 hp and 290 lb-ft of torque for my car? http://forums.780tuners.com/showthr...;highlight=dyno
Oh yeah, I forgot about that.
quote: BTW, when is the EZCC dyno day?
No date yet, but I'll let you know.
quote: I would probably be interested
Atta boy!! ;)
quote: as I am going to be installing Specialty Z Super Split Downpipes, Test pipes, Boost Controller and JWT Chip.
Wow, all at once eh? You're going from Stage 1/2 --> Stage 4/5. That's a pretty good jump.
quote: unless you have any contact info for him (e-mail).
Try gord@edmontonzcarclub.com and if that doesn't work let me know.
Jason |
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| MixManMash |
I will start to clean the connectors that you are suggesting. I already cleaned the coil pack connectors and they seem fine. I just changed all 6 spark plugs and I did check the gapping and they seem fine. I also changed out both PCV valves (what a PITA that was), PTU, and knock sensor and no difference in the idle. I even reset the ECU and tried again and no difference.
I will try TT.net's tech forum, but before I do, I will check out the connectors. Is there some sort of diagnosis method for the IAC valve (is it in the FSM)?
As for my mods for this year, yeah it is a big jump. But then that will be it for power mods for a long time. Future power mods will only happen when something fails (i.e. injectors, turbo). Next year mods will be all suspension related. |
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| Soulfly |
Uhm.. Stiffer Motor mounts will do that.. The motor mounts could be fine...
My car Shakes at idle.. so does my dad's truck, so Does my Brothers jeep..
Most vehicles do? |
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| MixManMash |
| True enough. However, none of my other cars shake quite like this (mind you, all of my other vehicles are much newer). I might just have to get somebody with more experience than myself with a Z32 to check it out for me. Again, it's just at idle otherwise the car runs perfectly fine as far as I know. |
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| Inzane |
Mine doesn't shake.
To intentionally reproduce a condition like you were describing I'd probably have to unplug/jiggle a sensor connector or pull a vacuum line off (speaking of which you may want to check those too). |
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| MixManMash |
Yeah, but that's the thing... With a loose vacuum line, you can see the RPMs fluctuate on your tach.
My RPMs are staying absolutely steady at 750 RPM and I can feel a slight shake. |
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| Inzane |
quote: Originally posted by MixManMash
Yeah, but that's the thing... With a loose vacuum line, you can see the RPMs fluctuate on your tach.
My RPMs are staying absolutely steady at 750 RPM and I can feel a slight shake.
Weird. If you're saying your revs at idle stay rock solid while you experience this "shaking", that might rule out anything to do with your idle air control as a source of the problem. |
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| MixManMash |
| Cool. You might have to check it out as soon as Z-able weather comes. It's quite the oddity. |
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