| How to deal with a Badly Oxidized Hood...? - Click HERE for Original Thread |
| blown_mr2 |
.... on the 2. My 15 year old paint is showng.
What are my options to restoring the shine? A re-paint not being one of them.
I've heard good things about Ming. Any other suggestions?
Thanks. |
|
|
| talonstylz |
| sometimes its just the clear coat thats failed, have any pics of it? |
|
|
| blown_mr2 |
quote:
Originally posted by talonstylz
sometimes its just the clear coat thats failed, have any pics of it?
See, that's the thing. I'm pretty sure my car didn't come with a clear coat. I don't think Toyota used a clearcoat with that color, in that year.
This is prob the best pic I have of the hood.
 |
|
|
| talonstylz |
quote:
Originally posted by blown_mr2
See, that's the thing. I'm pretty sure my car didn't come with a clear coat. I don't think Toyota used a clearcoat with that color, in that year.
This is prob the best pic I have of the hood.
Are you sure, i never seen paint being shiny without clearcoat, thats what usually brings out the shine.
I could be wrong as i'm not a body man, but maybe someone can chime in.:dunno: |
|
|
| dc2696 |
| Every paint job should have clearcoat. Ming is amazing a few guys in the miata club have done it and highly recommend it.:thumbup: |
|
|
| Tech2 |
| What is it they do over at ming, and how much does it cost? |
|
|
| dc2696 |
quote:
Originally posted by Tech2
What is it they do over at ming, and how much does it cost?
it like a super wax/polish. its a few hundred bux (3-400) I believe. |
|
|
| talonstylz |
quote:
Originally posted by dc2696
it like a super wax/polish. its a few hundred bux (3-400) I believe.
Thats more then enough to get a hood clear coated, if thats the problem, and will most likely last longer then wax/polish. |
|
|
| dc2696 |
quote:
Originally posted by talonstylz
Thats more then enough to get a hood clear coated, if thats the problem, and will most likely last longer then wax/polish.
thats for the whole car. |
|
|
| Charles_00civic |
| When you buy your car you should get it Ming shined. Myc ar is and my parents cars. It rocks!:thumbup: |
|
|
| dc2696 |
quote:
Originally posted by Charles_00civic
When you buy your car you should get it Ming shined. Myc ar is and my parents cars. It rocks!:thumbup:
wanna give a rough price st on how much it cost you? |
|
|
| n0c7 |
| Older paints were single stage, nice and shiny without clear. |
|
|
| raceready68 |
| what color is the car ?. I have been polishing cars for almost 5yrs and work in the busyest detail shop in Canada. I have done a few mr2's of my own . If you are in Edmonton I can prob help ya out for a good price I have brought back some pretty bad paint jobs |
|
|
| Tech2 |
| What other deals do they have? 3-400 seems pretty steep to me too. |
|
|
| blown_mr2 |
quote:
Originally posted by raceready68
what color is the car ?. I have been polishing cars for almost 5yrs and work in the busyest detail shop in Canada. I have done a few mr2's of my own . If you are in Edmonton I can prob help ya out for a good price I have brought back some pretty bad paint jobs
It's "Signal Yellow". Yeah, I'm in the city. Maybe I'll have you have a look at it when she's on the road (in about a month).
Thanks.
I'm also going to see what Ming can do. |
|
|
| dc2696 |
quote:
Originally posted by Tech2
What other deals do they have? 3-400 seems pretty steep to me too.
For a whole car??? You realize this stuff lasts like years right? Doesn't sound bad to me.:dunno: |
|
|
| Tech2 |
| Let us know what the ming guys say. I was just on their website and couldn't find any pricing or many pics. I'm feelingg you about the oxidation, and for a reasonable price I might be interested in having the pros take care of it rather than me polishing and cleaning away for years to get the shine back. |
|
|
| raceready68 |
| Sounds very steep to me lol where I work charges $200. I charge depending on how much work it is |
|
|
| Tech2 |
| If it really works maybe I'd go for it, but if it's just going to postpone a paintjob by a year or something, i'd maybe just put the 400$ towards that instead. If on the other hand the Ming Shine does make the paint like new for 7 years, sure, it's a great deal. I'd sure like to see some pics and hear from some people who have had the work done. |
|
|
| raceready68 |
| Just send me a pm when you want me to have a look at it and you car will have clear coat on it. I know all the jdm mr2s I deal with do. Yellow should not be hard to bring back. Is it just the hood thats faded or the whole car ?. I have a special wax that I mix just for faded cars. It what I used on my presonal cars and lasts a long time. |
|
|
| mitsubitchy |
| Doesnt ming site say theres like a warranty or guarantee that it lasts 7 years or something. I might have to consider this as my hoods oxidized to hell as well... |
|
|
| Tech2 |
| Just double checked their site, says they guarantee their work for 10 years (depending on the condition of your paint). That seems to pretty much remove the guarantee, as the work isn't the issue, but your paint. |
|
|
| GTS Jeff |
Uhh before you go with this Ming bling...why not try a conventional polish with 3M fine rubbing compound? This is stuff that bodyshops use and it's also dirt cheap...$10 for a bottle IIRC.
I used that on my very heavily oxidized paint and it made a huge difference. My car went from a dull pink to a shiny red.
The only thing though, is that after you polish it, you need to put on some wax to kinda seal off the paint so it won't reoxidize. And from that point on, you should be waxing your car once every few months to keep the paint sealed up. |
|
|
| Tech2 |
I did a polish and wax job on my car last fall, and it did a great job of getting most of the car nice and shiny. On the more oxidized parts there was much less difference. I read a little on whatever detailing board it was, and considering my skill and tools it seemed to be that it would take quite a few sessions to bring all the paint back. If some shop could do that for a reasonable cost, it might be a better option for me.
I'm not a detailer by any means, but I'm interested in the 3m stuff. What's the story on it? Can a detailing noob use it and not mess up my paint worse than it is already? Cuz that and the fact the pros can get better results in faster time are the main reasons I'd have someone else do it for me. |
|
|
| GTS Jeff |
quote:
Originally posted by Tech2
I did a polish and wax job on my car last fall, and it did a great job of getting most of the car nice and shiny. On the more oxidized parts there was much less difference. I read a little on whatever detailing board it was, and considering my skill and tools it seemed to be that it would take quite a few sessions to bring all the paint back. If some shop could do that for a reasonable cost, it might be a better option for me.
I'm not a detailer by any means, but I'm interested in the 3m stuff. What's the story on it? Can a detailing noob use it and not mess up my paint worse than it is already? Cuz that and the fact the pros can get better results in faster time are the main reasons I'd have someone else do it for me.
The 3M stuff is easy to use. Blob a bit on your towel, then buff a small section at a time in circular motions. The key to making stuff shine is patience. Take your time and don't rush. Spend more time on the more oxidized sections. If your paint is reaaally oxidized, you can consider wet-sanding it with very fine sandpaper too...then using the 3M afterwards.
I'm a detailing noob and the 3M stuff worked well for me. |
|
|
| DelSoln |
quote:
Originally posted by talonstylz
Are you sure, i never seen paint being shiny without clearcoat, thats what usually brings out the shine.
I could be wrong as i'm not a body man, but maybe someone can chime in.:dunno:
The second gen solid color deuces did not come with a clear coat. |
|
|
| uncle ben |
dont waste your time with "MING" BS. I'm sorry but anyone who says 7-10 yrs for their wax job to last is full of it. And that's why i'd stay away from there. If they were the end all, and be all of paint protection then you'd see porsches and ferrari's there, not for escorts and honda civics. But if you want your car professionally done then $300-$400 sounds about right. I'd suggest "auto details" they do pretty good work and use good products, not canadian tire stuff (no offence to canadian tire customers, you gotta start somewhere).
If you have somewhere to do it yourselfe (like a heated garage) it's really quite simple.
Start out by washing your car, preferably with a sheepskin wash mit and dish soap (dish soap will strip all old waxs andf junk off your paint, use it only before waxing)
If you can, claybar your car. It's easy, you just spray on "clay glide" and run the clay over, it's easy.
If you cant claybar dont worry, now start by using a mildly abrasive polish, it will say "cleaning polish" or something on it.
Use some elbow grease, or go buy a porter cable randome orbital polisher :) Wax on wax off young grasshopper.
Then throw on some wax or paint sealent and your done.
If you have a place but would like some help PM me. |
|
|
| uncle ben |
almost forgot, please please DONT, wetsand right off the bat. There's a good rule of thumb to use the least abrasive product first,then progressively move to more drastick measures. why take off 1/10 of your paint when 1/100 would have done the job.
Go to www.Bettercarcare.com , it's where I buy all my stuff, and it's a great resource for infomation. |
|
|
| GTS Jeff |
quote:
Originally posted by uncle ben
dont waste your time with "MING" BS. I'm sorry but anyone who says 7-10 yrs for their wax job to last is full of it. And that's why i'd stay away from there. If they were the end all, and be all of paint protection then you'd see porsches and ferrari's there, not for escorts and honda civics. But if you want your car professionally done then $300-$400 sounds about right. I'd suggest "auto details" they do pretty good work and use good products, not canadian tire stuff (no offence to canadian tire customers, you gotta start somewhere).
If you have somewhere to do it yourselfe (like a heated garage) it's really quite simple.
Start out by washing your car, preferably with a sheepskin wash mit and dish soap (dish soap will strip all old waxs andf junk off your paint, use it only before waxing)
If you can, claybar your car. It's easy, you just spray on "clay glide" and run the clay over, it's easy.
If you cant claybar dont worry, now start by using a mildly abrasive polish, it will say "cleaning polish" or something on it.
Use some elbow grease, or go buy a porter cable randome orbital polisher :) Wax on wax off young grasshopper.
Then throw on some wax or paint sealent and your done.
If you have a place but would like some help PM me.
That sounds all fine and dandy, but clay bars don't do a thing to remove oxidized paint. I've tried. :) |
|
|
| uncle ben |
^^the clay bar was a "if you can" add on step^^
I realize a clay bar just cleans the paint, but i just didnt want him using a cleaning polish or abrasive polish, on dirty paint, rubbing in the grit that's stuck on the paint. |
|
|
| GTS Jeff |
quote:
Originally posted by uncle ben
^^the clay bar was a "if you can" add on step^^
I realize a clay bar just cleans the paint, but i just didnt want him using a cleaning polish or abrasive polish, on dirty paint, rubbing in the grit that's stuck on the paint.
Ahh makes sense... |
|
|
| raceready68 |
| There is no way any polish job will last 7 to 10yrs. I would say there is a few loop holes in the warrentee at ming to get rid of that just to clear something up and not solicting busness I said would take a look at it to see if its fixable or totally screwed |
|
|
|
|
|
