| what pads done fade so fast? BMW - Click HERE for Original Thread |
| newaccorddriver |
| im trying to figure our what brand of pads dont fade so fast. my OEM BMW pads seem to fade like crazy since i took out the remaining 50% of the rears within 3 months or so of driving. its $400 a change and i dont wanna chance them out twice a year(or 4 times if you include the fronts) |
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| JustinL |
| Are you talking about fade or wear? |
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| myhorse |
If it is Fade, try these:
http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/
I just put them on the testarossa last year and signficant improvement. You'll need the R4-S. material
PS I agree, the BMW brakes are lousy. OK if you just drive around looking cool, but if you push them too hard, they fade fast and watch out for crack in the cross drilling - Got that on my M3 |
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| newaccorddriver |
quote:
Originally posted by JustinL
Are you talking about fade or wear?
a bit of both im guessing. the rears wore out significantly faster then i was expecting, and this was with light braking most of the times
i guess it might have been traction control that made them wear out a bit quicker as well |
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| JustinL |
It sounds like your biggest complaint is wear. Typically OEM pads (BMW in your case) should be very long lasting. You may want to consider switching to an aftermarket pad, which may or may not last as long, but will be a whole lot lets painfull on the wallett. I've had good success with Metal Master pads for the street. They're even pretty good for autocross, but they have fade problems at higher speed events with heavier cars.
Fade is when your brakes get too hot and the friction of the pad drops off. Your pedal will still be stiff, but you won't have the stopping power. This only ever happens if you are braking hard and often like on a track, your brkaes will come back to normal after you let them cool.
Another problem can be boiling the brake fluid and this will result in a very spongy pedal and a panicing driver ;). The first thing to try if you find this happening is to change the brake fluid for a higher temperature.
HTH
Justin |
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| newaccorddriver |
quote:
Originally posted by JustinL
It sounds like your biggest complaint is wear. Typically OEM pads (BMW in your case) should be very long lasting. You may want to consider switching to an aftermarket pad, which may or may not last as long, but will be a whole lot lets painfull on the wallett. I've had good success with Metal Master pads for the street. They're even pretty good for autocross, but they have fade problems at higher speed events with heavier cars.
Fade is when your brakes get too hot and the friction of the pad drops off. Your pedal will still be stiff, but you won't have the stopping power. This only ever happens if you are braking hard and often like on a track, your brkaes will come back to normal after you let them cool.
Another problem can be boiling the brake fluid and this will result in a very spongy pedal and a panicing driver ;). The first thing to try if you find this happening is to change the brake fluid for a higher temperature.
HTH
Justin
thanks for the advice. ill try a different brand of pads the next time im in the shop as my OEM ones are wearing out too fast.
the fade part is somewhat true to my experience as well though. i drive down highway 2 every day to go to work and as soon as i take my exit, i must slow down quite a bit. afterwards it seems like i must put a bit more pressure to get the same stopping effects. |
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| SilverNeonRacer |
Sorry for the slight off topic.
But onthe topic of brake fluid... I bake mine alot, My Neon LE after 40,000ish km needed to be flushed, my Wife's Neon R/T needs the same. And I have no idea on my V8.
Now I don't want to spend a fortune on brake fluid, but what would be a good replacement for OEM equiv brake fluid?
On both Neons the brake fluid, which was clear, now looks like synthetic motor oil after 1000km in a newer engine. The pedals aren't spongy, but still it's probably not good.
I saw some DOT 5, but wasn't sure I should use it, after all the manual says Dot 3, and I know Mopar is picky about the ATX fuild. |
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| JustinL |
quote:
Originally posted by SilverNeonRacer
I saw some DOT 5, but wasn't sure I should use it, after all the manual says Dot 3, and I know Mopar is picky about the ATX fuild.
DOT 4 fluid is chemically compatible with DOT 3 fluid, so you could flush and fill with DOT 4.
DO NOT switch to DOT 5. DOT 5 is not chemically compatible with the 3 or 4. If you wanted to switch, you would need to flush all evidence of any DOT 3/4 fluid completely out.
I now use ATE super blue and I've been pretty happy with it so far. |
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| SilverNeonRacer |
quote:
Originally posted by JustinL
DOT 4 fluid is chemically compatible with DOT 3 fluid, so you could flush and fill with DOT 4.
DO NOT switch to DOT 5. DOT 5 is not chemically compatible with the 3 or 4. If you wanted to switch, you would need to flush all evidence of any DOT 3/4 fluid completely out.
I now use ATE super blue and I've been pretty happy with it so far.
I know how to flush with dot 3, and I guess dot 4, but how would you remove all the dot 3, with out using dot 5 to push it out.
Is the super blue compatable with dot 3? and how much does it cost and where would I get it?
Thanks again |
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| JustinL |
http://www.paragon-products.com/Por...Fluids_s/65.htm
That's where I buy mine, but I'm sure one of the sponsors could get some for you. ATE blue is DOT 4 and compatible with your old fluid, but you should still flush it through.
I have no idea how to totally clean out the braking system without using brake fluid... I would suspect there's a chemical you can use to flush.
Enjoy and keep that stuff off the paint :) |
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| Fish_e_o |
i use DOT 3 Ford brake fluid it adsorbs water really fast so it needs to be changed before i race every time but it has a really high boiling point and is very cheap... works well for me...
a DOT 4 will aborb water slower and wont need to be changed as often. but at the sacrifice of having a lower boiling temp..
i ran Dot 5 for a bit, you do have to do a really good flush by pushing your previous brake fluid out with DOT 5 and it's very expensive... it has a relativly high boiling point and absorbs water slowly as well meaning it doesn't need to be flushed as often...(****** if your car was not meant to have DOT 5 it may break down seals in your master cylinder*******) |
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