| megasquirt..? standalones? - Click HERE for Original Thread |
| Shady_Pro |
| how hard is megasquirt to set up and use...or is it recommended that someone that has actually done somthing like this before tunes it?:dunno: ...are there other safm that are easier or more amateur yet functional |
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| JustinL |
The trickiest part with the megasquirt is setting up the trigger wheel. If you have a ford, it would be dead easy, but those of us with wierd speed and reference sensors either need to wait for the router board to hit the market or weld on a ford EDIS wheel.
Ae1969 has his 944 turbo almost ready to fire up with the MSII system and we should be able to answer more questions once it's up and running. |
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| dc2696 |
| check out ms website for specific info on ur car and if anyone has set up an ms system. I know for us miata guys it has been done but its tricky...thats why I went with a piggyback (emanage blue). Do you NEED a standalone or do u want one? maybe a piggyback would better suit your need? As for tuning it...well I would start with some one elses map to a similar set-up as yours and go from there, I know with my emanage I make/set-up an autotune function:thumbup: |
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| newaccorddriver |
quote:
Originally posted by JustinL
The trickiest part with the megasquirt is setting up the trigger wheel. .
i think thats assuming he wants full control over ignition timing and such. if he doesnt, then setting up a base map and tuning it from there shouldnt be too hard. i was thinking about using megasquirt on my accord for a while, but i might convert it to OBD1 for financial reasons. megasquirt also for those that actually want to rewire their whole engine with a custom harness as well and add alot of other things in there |
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| Murph |
*ricer plug* MOTEC *ricer plug*
actually kick ass harware just uber expensive |
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| Supra_devil |
me and another supra owner in town plan on MS. both of us will use mechanical ignition control to start. So all we need to tune is fuel. the setup the ignition over winter or something.
not all cars have that option, but if you can it makes it easy.
for ignition some people have ground the contacts inside a stock Distributor to use that as a signal for the MS, some people setup an EDIS setup, others have stock sensors they can utilize.
searching the MS forums is definetly the best way to see if there is already a proven method that will work for you. |
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| Shady_Pro |
see the ecu in the prelude i have runs on obd0 i think ( i donno anything about electrical) and as far as i know there isn't a piggy back that will work unless you start cutting, id obviously get someone to do it but i don't want to pay someone to figure out what will and will not work ...i don't know about the converting over to obd1? im just clueless and have no idea what im talking about when it comes to this side. thanks for any help:)
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| newaccorddriver |
| converting to OBD1 on that A20 engine(assuming your using that engine) just requires the harness and a OBD1 distributor. itll be a royal pain in the ass to try and fit another distributor in there, MS with crank trigger might be ideal. if you do manage to fit a distributor on there, your tuning is limited only to what program you choose and what you want to do(kinda like MS, but alot easier) |
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| S O |
I have to put in a plug for sequential injection here. It may seem trivial, but being able to time your injection so that you don't inject during blowdown (particularly when both intake and exhaust valves are open) is priceless. If you can hear the difference, it's huge. And on some engines that I've tested, sequential injection can make a gasoline engine NOT sound like a diesel.
Put in the trigger. Take the extra effort to time your injection and you won't regret it. Set up your injection properly, or just stick with a carb. Go hard (megasquirt) or go home. |
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| newaccorddriver |
quote:
Originally posted by S O
I have to put in a plug for sequential injection here. It may seem trivial, but being able to time your injection so that you don't inject during blowdown (particularly when both intake and exhaust valves are open) is priceless. If you can hear the difference, it's huge. And on some engines that I've tested, sequential injection can make a gasoline engine NOT sound like a diesel.
Put in the trigger. Take the extra effort to time your injection and you won't regret it. Set up your injection properly, or just stick with a carb. Go hard (megasquirt) or go home.
multiport is just as good. itll fire when the intake and exhaust are both open, but the mixture would be pulled in through the vacuum the exhaust creates as well. |
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| Shady_Pro |
quote:
Originally posted by newaccorddriver
converting to OBD1 on that A20 engine(assuming your using that engine) just requires the harness and a OBD1 distributor. itll be a royal pain in the ass to try and fit another distributor in there, MS with crank trigger might be ideal. if you do manage to fit a distributor on there, your tuning is limited only to what program you choose and what you want to do(kinda like MS, but alot easier)
so its just a matter of swapping the harness and gettin a obd1 dizzy but its near impossiable to fit a different dizzy on?...how hard is it to swap the harness? what dizzy do you use? howcome it has to be obd1 to run piggy backs and not obd0?...like i said earlier this is all russian to me haha. thanks guys |
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| newaccorddriver |
quote:
Originally posted by Shady_Pro
so its just a matter of swapping the harness and gettin a obd1 dizzy but its near impossiable to fit a different dizzy on?...how hard is it to swap the harness? what dizzy do you use? howcome it has to be obd1 to run piggy backs and not obd0?...like i said earlier this is all russian to me haha. thanks guys
its not swapping the harness, you need boomslang to custom make you a harness for your prelude(pretty much the same harness of the accord). you would probably have to give them a pinout of your ecu though. after that, its just simple plug and play with a bit of easy wiring.
the distributor part is hard. very hard for starters. 3geez has a thread all about it and a few people there have converted to OBD1 already, so atleast you know its not impossible. they usually gut out a F22 distributor and figure out a way to mount it on the head(the hardest part), then they have to redrill the key so itll sit at TDC when its mounted properly. usually people who do this have a spare head lying around. and do it on the side until their ready for actual testing.
you can run an SAFC on OBD0, but the fact that we have vacuum advance makes it very limited in what we can do. with OBD1, you dont really need a piggy back if you have a chipped ECU, but a piggy back is the easy way out for tuning on OBD1
you can always try megasquirt and crank trigger for stand alone, but i think its getting the crank trigger set up correctly that will be the hardest part. i would try it myself, but i think its too much of a hassle if OBD1 is easier and cheaper. i would be megasquirt if i were to use a BTM though, but even thats iffy |
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| fatbastard |
I had a megasquirt in my colt (4G63T), but never really got it to run 100%. It was stupid rich no matter what I did with it. I made a patch harness from the stock DSM harness to the Megasquirt. Again, I can't stress this enough, it's NOT EASY to setup and get tuned. I had it running not bad with the T3/T4 on an open wastegate (no boost) but as soon as I started tuning to positive pressure it went to shit.
Remember, I was doing this before many people had one set up on a DSM, so I'm sure there is more/better info out there now. I've since abandoned it and will be sticking to more tried and true methods.
Pics (MSnS-extra stuf is at the bottom). http://www.nacdsm.org/gallery/v/album10/album24/ |
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