| jubei |
Want to build engine to handle boost, so i have decided to go with laskey racing. I want to basically replace all parts that suffer wear and tear. My question is what other parts other than these would need to be replaced to have a basically brand new motor.
Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
CP pistons and rings
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
Balance shaft removal mod (saves 8lbs, picks up 7HP, increases oil pressure and volume)
OEM oil pump
Gaskets as required
Blueprint and assembly
Boxing, return shipping and insurance (lower 48 only)
Total $3450
Eagle rods substituted for Pauters...$3050 |
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| preluderca |
| Your also gonna need to build a head....depending on how much boost, upgraded Fuel system........fuel rail, fuel pump.... Injectors |
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| bigboy786 |
| just sell your lude and buy mine. it will be much cheaper. you still need a ems which will run you about 1500 not to mention a whole bunch of little things that are going to pop up. $24000 |
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| buh_buh |
Do not get Eagle rods unless you get the ones with the upgraded rod bolts, they can't handle the power and will snap on you. You won't need to do any headwork. But you can do it if you want.
Its pretty much everything you listed there, and to be safe you should probably do your timing belt, water pump, seals, arp headstuds, headgasket, and tensioner. It'll all be taken apart anyway, so you may as well play it safe and replace that stuff since you have to put it back together anyway.
If you haven't done the fuel system, you'll need a fuel pump, injectors, and fuel management. You won't need a new fuel rail unless you want to. Guys have made upwards of 500whp on the oem fuel rail.
Then miscellaneous stuff like thicker rad, 3 bar map sensor, cap/rotor/dizzy, a clutch that can handle the power, colder plugs, wires. I think that pretty much covers everything. There's probably still some little things I left off, but that's the main stuff. Happy boosting! |
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| jubei |
| I wanted to change valve seals so they are new, i know they suffer wear, would that be done also and if not can i get it done at the same time? |
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| jubei |
| i am not worried about fuel rail, and i think i have a hook up on hondata for 400. For injectors is i was thinking rc 550's. |
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| buh_buh |
I was thinking more along the lines of the rear main seal. You can pretty much replace anything since the entire motor's taken apart.
If you were planning on running 550s, why bother building the motor? 550s will be good for a little over 300whp, and you can do that on a stock block. If you want to make some real power, which is very possible with that setup you listed, your going to need a lot more fuel. |
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| Praylewd powr |
you will get new main seals with Earls builds. Also, don't get on the bandwagon about Eagle rodbolts breaking. Earl even told me that the small rod bolts are OK to run 500whp, but recommended if you want higher to upgrade to the newer larger bolt eagles (that is all he uses now anyways so you won't have to worry bout specifying). Pauters are unneccessary imo unless you are building for 700+whp.
As for injectors, you will need (as stated above) larger than 550's. What is your turbo setup you are using? That will define your initial fuel setup for now. Everyones idea of big power is different. I just wanted streetable, reliable power with mine.
btw, don't worry too much about running an aftermarket pricy aluminum dual core rad. I run an OEM integra full rad and it runs 180-185F all the time. You will be very impressed at how cool this block will run.
Good luck, Earl is great to deal with. I received my block within 5 weeks!
D |
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| buh_buh |
Eagle rods won't break for sure, but it has happened before, and on more than a few occasions. That is enough for me to spend a couple extra bucks for piece of mind. If your spending that much on a motor build already, why not spend a little more just in case that rod bolt does happen to be weak, and it happens to break? You gotta get new rods, pistons, bore, hone, and all that fun (and expensive) stuff again.
I originally bought a set of Eagle rods, but decided against using them for that specific reason, and they are actually still sitting in my room. Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I definately want to avoid re-spending all that money. Think of that extra money your spending as insurance. |
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| 92_WhItE_H23 |
| ive heard of eagle rods breaking on like 250 whp NA setups so yes they can break on you.. ive heard some good things and some bad things about them. but then again anything you do to your engine will either work or fuck up and thats the gamble when you modify an engine i guess. |
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| Praylewd powr |
to each their own. I upgraded to newer large bolt eagles and am comfortable with them. With any build, you have to stay within budget.
Rods will break, but usually there is a tuning issue if it not just rpm dependent.....
Good to see someone else is sending business to Laskey......great company!
d |
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| buh_buh |
quote:
Originally posted by Praylewd powr
to each their own. I upgraded to newer large bolt eagles and am comfortable with them.
you got your bases covered then :) I was referring to the Eagle rods with the 5/16" without the rod bolt upgrade. |
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| newred |
buh_buh How did u make out with ur Build? Is ur car back together?
Sorry off topic:stickpoke |
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| buh_buh |
got it back together.
Just sorting out some minor issues still. I'm making some progress though, hopefully I'll have everything sorted out and be on the dyno on sunday. |
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| jubei |
| Ok so if 550's are too small what is a good size? 720's maybe? I was originally planning on using a t3/t4 but could also go with a t4. My goal is to make about 350 whp safely. |
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| Praylewd powr |
If that is your goal (350whp), then 550's should put you in the 80-90% duty cycle range. If that is the case, perhaps stick with a t3/t4 rather than a full T4. The spool difference will be noticeable. For example, my H22 build with a t3/t4 .63AR hot side and 57 trim cold side with stage 3 wheel put out 374whp/300ft lb at 15 psi. It is a good choice for low boost and will peak out at 450-475whp on the H22.
Pick your highest hp goals, and size your fuel setup for that.
720's would be a good choice.
d |
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| buh_buh |
the size of injector you buy should depend on what your power goals are. All injectors should be the same price, so its better to go big than go small imo. 720s should be good for almost 400whp, so they should be good if want 350whp.
And people have made up to 600-700whp with a t3/t4. The advantage to a t3/t4 is that is has the spoolup characteristics of a t3, but being able to push more volume of air than a straight t3. Although a straight t4 is capable of making more power, it is just not fit for a daily driver (and our smaller motors), and is just older technology. |
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| Praylewd powr |
bigger is not always better with injectors keep that in mind. They should be sized to your application/power goals (as said). But it also depends on what engine management you are running. I still use hondata (the s200) and they have yet to release Romeditor version 4.0. So I have to deal with a lack of decent IAT compensations, ECT compensations, etc. And the larger the injector, the more variation you will see with respect to AFR's relative to IAT and ECT changes.
I run RC 850's......also keep in mind that not all injectors of the same brand are the same price. If that were the case, then Speedtech raped me on the price for my RC's (which they definately didn't). Usually, larger = $$$.
d |
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| buh_buh |
well obviously your not going to be using 1600cc injectors for a 300whp car, but its better to go bigger than go smaller. That way if you change your mind later on down the road, you don't need new injectors again (I made that mistake). I wouldn't want to run an injector at over 85% duty cycle anyway.
And typically, injectors are the same price regardless. If you go on the RC website, they are all relatively the same price. 155cc - 250cc are the same price, 270cc-360cc are the same price ($4 more than 150cc-250cc), and 550-1000cc are the same price (about $10 more than the 150-250cc), then custom modified ones are much more. So I guess larger is more $, but only by $14 when you compare a 150cc to a 1000cc, not much of a difference in my books.
Typically, all injector designs are going to be the same. The only difference is the size and pattern of the spray hole and screen. That is why it is common for Subie owners to modify their stock injectors to support higher boost. Its kind of a ghetto method, but its been proven to work and is pretty common among that community. A friend of mine had a set of stock STi injectors (550cc) and modified them to 816cc, and the car runs reliably that way too. So there isn't an actual difference in the injector, just in the screen in which he modified that allows for more flow. Hence the similar prices for all injectors. |
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| Praylewd powr |
ok, I won't argue with you.....though my RC 850's were higher price than 720's or 550's.
:dunno: |
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