| I want to install a battery in the trunk of my Civic. What gauge wires should I run? - Click HERE for Original Thread |
| civic/integra |
| i want to put my batery in the trunk what gauge of wiring do i need and how much do u think it would cost |
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| McFly |
| What amperage does your alt put out? |
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| Soulfly |
| 75amp's? there or around? |
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| SuperJay |
4 or 6
4 is probably overkill.
you probably only have 8 coming off your alternator from factory. |
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| Soulfly |
quote:
Originally posted by SuperJay
4 or 6
4 is probably overkill.
you probably only have 8 coming off your alternator from factory.
4 would be the better choice...:thumbup: |
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| SuperJay |
quote:
Originally posted by Soulfly
4 would be the better choice...:thumbup:
You would never tell the difference. |
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| dc2696 |
| go buy a batt reloc kit...:dunno: |
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| SilverNeonRacer |
quote:
Originally posted by SuperJay
You would never tell the difference.
You have 8 coming from your alt.... that 8ga runs maybe 8ft around the engine bay, you'd probably double that running it to the trunk... your better off with 4ga.
I had 1/0 in my Neon :P |
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| Blaine B. |
quote:
Originally posted by civic/integra
i want to put my batery in the trunk what gauge of wiring do i need and how much do u think it would cost
My question is why? |
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| Holset Hatch |
| my guess is more room, thats why i relocated mine, in the ef engine bay, space is at a premium. plus it looks a ton cleaner. |
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| Soulfly |
quote:
Originally posted by Holset Hatch
my guess is more room, thats why i relocated mine, in the ef engine bay, space is at a premium. plus it looks a ton cleaner.
Especially with a B series in there.. lol.. as If it wasn't PACKED enough already.. :p
:thumbup: |
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| charger_guy |
| 2 gauge minimum. Obviously none of u realize y the gauge is big off the battery, ur starter takes a crapload of amperage. The alternator really has nothing to do with it, the battery is a buffer for when the car is running. I have one in my charger, i ran 4 gauge, it sucked starter barley cranked, car had very little power when idling (alternator is on 12v low charge(buffer zone from battery is needed)). I recommend 2 gauge minimum. I switched to 2 gauge, and it mad a major difference, make sure use that gage on ur ground too. |
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| SilverNeonRacer |
quote:
Originally posted by charger_guy
2 gauge minimum. Obviously none of u realize y the gauge is big off the battery, ur starter takes a crapload of amperage. The alternator really has nothing to do with it, the battery is a buffer for when the car is running. I have one in my charger, i ran 4 gauge, it sucked starter barley cranked, car had very little power when idling (alternator is on 12v low charge(buffer zone from battery is needed)). I recommend 2 gauge minimum. I switched to 2 gauge, and it mad a major difference, make sure use that gage on ur ground too.
My 318 has 8ga running to the starter and like 10ga running from the alt :P
My Neon had 8ga running to the starter and with 4ga running to the trunk it was fine, was even better with 1/0. |
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| charger_guy |
| ahh forgot, most of these cars don't have enough compression or power to need a decent starter or amperage rating. |
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| Soulfly |
quote:
Originally posted by charger_guy
ahh forgot, most of these cars don't have enough compression or power to need a decent starter or amperage rating.
I'm PRETTY Sure.. Most of us have More Comression than your big bad V8's and also.. WAY More Volumetric Efficiency then you'd ever see...
Bigger isn't always better.. Charger Guy. |
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| charger_guy |
| turbo on a 4 cylinder is no more efficent than my car. when it comes to racing fuel is not apart of the comparison. by the way i was joking. I guess a domestic guy can't lay a joke. |
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| Ron@Revolution |
quote:
Originally posted by charger_guy
turbo on a 4 cylinder is no more efficent than my car. when it comes to racing fuel is not apart of the comparison. by the way i was joking. I guess a domestic guy can't lay a joke.
I hope your not serious about that statement? You do realize that a turbo car sees over 100% VE, dont' you. |
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| Soulfly |
The EMOIcon's are to your Left... Use them If you're joking..
That's what they are there for!! :thumbup:
And think about it...
a 1.6L built up Honda Motor can put out 200WHP without a turbo.. That's like.. what.. a 97CI Motor? and your 440CI Puts out 500? Thats around.. 4.5 times Larger... so.. Lets Say.. For every 100Ci, There is 200HP Available.. maybe more.. were did your Other 400HP go?? Weight?
:lol: |
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| Ayeso |
| Thats what I always say, there is a replacement for displacement, volumetric efficiency. |
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| THUD |
Well I got some wire for a welder it's like 2g and I have 4g and 6or8 would be way to small.
I use 8g to add extra ground point's around the motor and to ground out my Amp's.
Add a shut off swtch under the hood and one by the licence plate and if your into customizing put the front switch below the windsheld near the wipers kinda built into the plastic or incorparate it to be a anti theft power shut off.
Fairly easy to do just make sure the battery inside the batbox is secured with metal holder that is bolted to the chassiy (large bolts) just to add so it's not just the straps holding back the vibration.
:beer: |
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| Britain |
| Honestly. 0-2 gauge is best. 4 gauge is too small (i learned that) but 1 gauge works great!:bowdown: |
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| Ayeso |
| 4 gauge is NOT too small.... trust me... yes its a good idea to use 2 or lower but i ran 4gauge and it never even got warm when cranking. |
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| SilverNeonRacer |
quote:
Originally posted by Ayeso
4 gauge is NOT too small.... trust me... yes its a good idea to use 2 or lower but i ran 4gauge and it never even got warm when cranking.
It really depends on your vehicle. I had a truck(4 cyl), that the factory oem 4 ga ground and starter wire got hot enough that I said ouch when I touched it if I had to crank for more than a couple of seconds.
Somebody posted a chart in a "what power wire should I use for my amp" thread. You need to figure out what you Amp draw would be when you have your lights on, heater fan, stereo, etc, etc and cranking(you know worst case senario) and then use that chart to determine the proper gauge wire.
My old 93 swift I ran 12ga to the trunk and the car would crank and start in the winter without the 12ga getting warm. |
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| dc2696 |
quote:
Originally posted by Ayeso
Thats what I always say, there is a replacement for displacement, volumetric efficiency.
thats what ever single riceboy in the world says/thinks...all things being equal there is no replacement for displacement. Honda queers:p (<<<----see charger_guy like this):D |
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| fatbastard |
I usec 4 gauge on the colt, 4G63T, NO options, just a damn MP3 player.
It worked fine, no issues. I wouldn't go for 8 gauge, too small in my opinion for that long of a run. Remember, resistance goes up with the length of cable, bigger is better, why take a chance at burning something up? |
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| charger_guy |
quote:
Originally posted by Soulfly
The EMOIcon's are to your Left... Use them If you're joking..
That's what they are there for!! :thumbup:
And think about it...
a 1.6L built up Honda Motor can put out 200WHP without a turbo.. That's like.. what.. a 97CI Motor? and your 440CI Puts out 500? Thats around.. 4.5 times Larger... so.. Lets Say.. For every 100Ci, There is 200HP Available.. maybe more.. were did your Other 400HP go?? Weight?
:lol:
you guys are comparing the exact opposite things tho, i didn't build mine to make its peak hp. Take 3 grand of performance upgrades and lets see how much power a n/a 4 cylinder would make. You are also forgetting one part, i can pretty much idle to make my power, in order for you to make the same power u have to be screaming with rpms. So in reality i may not have my full volumetric efficientcy (yet), but i have a better power curve.
my bosses 600 c i ford makes 3000 hp, thats over 500hp per 100 ci. so really, it depends what cash u have, and what ur goals are. Atleast my engine is built where i can keep adding power with reliability. |
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| Ron@Revolution |
| I take it your boss has a 5 second car? What is his name? I also take it you want now to compare full on race car motor to an import street car motor?:rolleyes: Okay lets play my car, a street driven Talon is making more then 600Hp per 100ci and I drive it almost everyday on the street how about your bosses car?:drama: |
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| Soulfly |
There is SO many Variable's Here it's Not Worth Arguing..
Both Motors Have their Up's and Down's.. Thing is.. I Like my power to come on later in the rpm range... I Like revving up to get a Boost of power.. It's Just what I like..
You like the Sudden 'Burst' Of power... that Jam's you in your seat as soon as you touch the gas...
It's all Personal Opinion.. But .. I like To defend the 4 cyl.. Not Very many people do.. Someone has too.. :p |
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| Ayeso |
I was just kidding around, its like comparing oranges and apples....
muscle cars and imports are 2 different types of cars, 2 different engine theorys on how to make power, each has their ups and downs.
I prefer hi rpm hi revvin power, some prefer low end torque.
And as far as the wiring goes, it all comes down to how much amps u draw, what length of cable it is, etc... WAY too many factors for anyone to tell you what it is.
In my civic 4ga was plenty but in smoeone elses it may not be enough |
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| charger_guy |
my boss runs a mud bog truck that runs that motor.
See i like having high reving power to, heck my car pulls from 3000 to 7000 rpm like nothing. Thing i hate with those engines, is the fact it has a very small powercurve. I like a power curve that i can use from a craw, all the way to 7000rpm. my car gets 21 mpg, with no overdrive, and is capable of a low 11 in the 1/4 mile. not bad. Fuel consumption is different than volumetric efficeincy. Sure i have 7.4 liters of displacment, but my friend with his 13.7 second skyline is getting the same if not worse mileage with overdrive tranny. So much more on a car takes to effect when it comes to fuel. |
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| Soulfly |
| no one cares about fuel.. lol :p |
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| Blaine B. |
quote:
Originally posted by Soulfly
Especially with a B series in there.. lol.. as If it wasn't PACKED enough already.. :p
:thumbup:
An OEM Honda sized battery fits in a Del Sol fine with lots of spare room with an H22 swapped in. I don't see how space is that much of a premium. Think of all the weight you are adding to the car that isn't close to the drive wheels. You are taking weight off of your traction axle and distributing it away from where it can do the most good.
If space is at a real premium I would recommend a Braille battery, I keep them in stock.
All Season Braille battery.
Volts: 12 AH: 21
Pulse Cranking Amps: Over 1060!
Exterior Size L:6.8" W:3.8"H:6.1"
Weight: 15 lb or under 7kg!
Uses:: Racing and Street use in Colder Climates.
The summer/warm climate battery is even tastier.
Volts: 12 AH: 15
Pulse Cranking Amps: Over 900!
Exterior Size L:5.8" W:3.3"H:5.9"
Weight: 11.5 lb or 5.2kg!
Uses: All Forms of Racing and Street Use.
Maybe back in the day with the predominantly RWD vehicles moving your battery to the back made sense, but I don't see it making any sense on a FWD vehicle nowadays with the technology available. Remember, if your battery is relocated you have to have a master cutoff switch located on the back of the vehicle to pass tech at the drag strip and I would think most other sanctioned motorsport events.
We had the battery relocated to the back on Black Sunshine, we are moving it back to the front now with a Braille battery. It's really a no brainer. |
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