| Dusted |
I've read that if you overboost (> 12 psi) an FD with stock ECU that fuel is cut to the rear rotor until reset. To reset do you simply disconect the battery? I did hit 11 psi last night and want to know what to do in case it does go into "limp home mode". Thanks.
Mark |
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| ehos |
I've never heard of a limp mode on a FD. Usually when it goes on 'limp' mode, its permanent.
IF you want to reset the ECU, you disconnect the battery, step on the brake for 5 seconds and its good to go. I would FOR sure check out why you over boosted (12PSI doesn't seem like overboost since stock is 10PSI).
Hope the FD is ok. |
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| crazyrx7 |
Actually there is a limp mode on the fd but it doesn't happen when you over boost. If you over boost and go lean then you will be in a perminant limp home mode until you rebuild your motor. Buy yourself a boost controller and set it for 10psi and you will be safe on the stock ecu.
R.K. |
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| crazyrx7 |
quote:
Originally posted by ehos
I've never heard of a limp mode on a FD. Usually when it goes on 'limp' mode, its permanent.
IF you want to reset the ECU, you disconnect the battery, step on the brake for 5 seconds and its good to go. I would FOR sure check out why you over boosted (12PSI doesn't seem like overboost since stock is 10PSI).
Hope the FD is ok.
I believe the fuel cut is just over 12psi on the stock ecu.
R.K. |
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| ehos |
quote:
Originally posted by crazyrx7
I believe the fuel cut is just over 12psi on the stock ecu.
R.K.
Yes, thank you for the correct info!
Also, there is a limp mode on the FD, and it can be reset by unhooking the battery and pressing the brake pedal.
If it did go into limp mode, it should be holding a code. It's very easy to pull the code and you should first figure out WHY it did.
(There could be reasons like stuck injectors, solenoids etc...) |
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| Dusted |
I've only done one WOT run to red line in second since getting it running properly. Geez it's hard to find places to open it up. Don't want an other $1000 ticket. Next time it's my license. It did not go into limp home mode. I just wanted to know what to do in case it did. Hopefully this year I will get the boost control done in preparation for the mid pipe. Thanks for the reset info.
Mark |
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| ehos |
Get on clubrx7.com and read up on all the mods needed for a midpipe...
It's probably the #1 reason people 'blow' their REW's. A boost controller (unless you do Damiens mod, and I have my doubts) won't control boost spikes. You will need a better ecu, intercooler, fuel, ported manifold? and a few other tricks to keep the spikes away... |
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| crazyrx7 |
To keep the spikes down you have to port the wastegate. A midpipe will definitely blow your motor due to almost no resistance in the exhaust. That will create a huge boost spike and kill your motor. Get the blitz sbc-id boost controller. It works awesome for the stock twins. You can control your boost spikes with it (after getting your wastegate ported).
R.K. |
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| Dusted |
| Thanks Rad. I was getting worried for a moment that my mod sequence was out to lunch. |
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| powermetal |
| ok sorry to ask a stupid question, but can someone explain "mid pipe" to me, im not sure i have any idea what you are talking about. |
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| Mobius |
| A mid pipe is a section of the exhaust, comes after the down pipe and may replace any stock cats/resonators. |
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| powermetal |
| oh, lol, ok so i should have known that, hey mobius what is your real name? |
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| powermetal |
| hey were you at the east sidfe marios, red fc with a rotor on the hood, or is that conrad? |
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| Transporter |
| is there actually anyone with a name of conrad.. or was it incorrectly said name for conner |
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| Mobius |
quote:
Originally posted by Transporter
is there actually anyone with a name of conrad.. or was it incorrectly said name for conner
Either that or he was thinkin' Conroy |
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