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dyno sheets??? - Click HERE for Original Thread

Spoonin
where are all teh dyno sheets bitches......its soo suspensful

MixManMash
I dunno if anybody is going to post. I know I have nothing to brag about as I need to do some tuning.

Not to mention, the afternoon heat on saturday was so killer that I think my motor was heat-soaked in seconds. Turbo cars + heat = bad dyno. It was +38 deg. C inside at Apex modified, combined with high humidity, it was not fun.

Inzane
quote:
Originally posted by Spoonin
where are all teh dyno sheets bitches......its soo suspensful


Who are you? :dunno:

crazyrx7
My brother dynoed at 397rwhp at 17.5 psi of boost on pump gas. After he gets back from holidays we are going back and turning up the boost and doing some more tuning.

R.K.

Fazda
nice numbers.

Inzane
quote:
Originally posted by crazyrx7
My brother dynoed at 397rwhp at 17.5 psi of boost on pump gas. After he gets back from holidays we are going back and turning up the boost and doing some more tuning.

R.K.


My only suggestion is:

:read: USE... RACE... GAS!

Spoonin
quote:
Originally posted by Inzane
Who are you? :dunno:



i used to be silviadrifter on 780 haha

accordt
quote:
Originally posted by MixManMash
I dunno if anybody is going to post. I know I have nothing to brag about as I need to do some tuning.

Not to mention, the afternoon heat on saturday was so killer that I think my motor was heat-soaked in seconds. Turbo cars + heat = bad dyno. It was +38 deg. C inside at Apex modified, combined with high humidity, it was not fun.



The heat was killer and I know it affected the numbers somewhat

~30oZ~
Also not all of us got to dyno our cars.

LOL at your "my ride":lol: did she notice this yet?

accordt
quote:
Originally posted by ~30oZ~
Also not all of us got to dyno our cars.

LOL at your "my ride":lol: did she notice this yet?



HAHA no she didnt I forgot about that lol

~30oZ~


and it's on here forever hahaha:p

MixManMash
quote:
Originally posted by Inzane
My only suggestion is:

:read: USE... RACE... GAS!



I dunno. His car didn't have any detonation issues at all with A/F dialed in at those boost pressures. I think it might simply be how much more efficient the GT28RS is at higher boost levels - i.e. doesn't produce as much heat as say stockers or Sport 500s. Plus it can vary from vehicle to vehicle.

I would say if anything, try water / meth injection - I just need to tune mine in some more and possibly get a piggy back or custom tune done on the ECU.

Any other club having another dyno day soon?

crazyrx7
quote:
Originally posted by Inzane
My only suggestion is:

:read: USE... RACE... GAS!



Like I said on the dyno day; we are re writing the 300zx bible. Its all in the timing. Your guy's timing is too far advanced. My brother just did everything that Z1 told him to and set up his car accordingly. We will post up the results as soon as we get them.

R.K.

MixManMash
quote:
Originally posted by crazyrx7
Like I said on the dyno day; we are re writing the 300zx bible. Its all in the timing. Your guy's timing is too far advanced. My brother just did everything that Z1 told him to and set up his car accordingly. We will post up the results as soon as we get them.

R.K.



Lemme guess, cut back timing about 5 degrees and increase boost to make up for it?

Interesting... I gotta say the stock timing is quite advanced at 15 deg. BTDC.

Inzane
quote:
Originally posted by crazyrx7
Like I said on the dyno day; we are re writing the 300zx bible.


Your brother is not the first guy in North America to have GT28RS turbos.

crazyrx7
quote:
Originally posted by MixManMash
Lemme guess, cut back timing about 5 degrees and increase boost to make up for it?

Interesting... I gotta say the stock timing is quite advanced at 15 deg. BTDC.



Cutting the timing 5 degrees is too much. But yes doing so you can run more boost. Its all about getting your turbos up to their efficency levels. Either way you will all be down that road eventually.

R.K.

crazyrx7
quote:
Originally posted by Inzane
Your brother is not the first guy in North America to have GT28RS turbos.


No but I am pretty sure that he is the first one in town to do so.
Either way the results are pretty good.

R.K.

Inzane
quote:
Originally posted by crazyrx7
No but I am pretty sure that he is the first one in town to do so.


Yes, he most likely is the first in town to have purchased those turbos. But what does that have to do with "rewriting the 300zx bible"?

MixManMash
quote:
Originally posted by Inzane
Yes, he most likely is the first in town to have purchased those turbos. But what does that have to do with "rewriting the 300zx bible"?


Running more boost safely on pump gas without water/methanol injection?

crazyrx7
quote:
Originally posted by MixManMash
Running more boost safely on pump gas without water/methanol injection?


:thumbup:

Besides I love busting your guys balls. It fun.:lol:

R.K.

Inzane
"Screw you guys... I'm going home!"





:lol:

MixManMash
quote:
Originally posted by crazyrx7
:thumbup:

Besides I love busting your guys balls. It fun.:lol:

R.K.



It's all in good fun. Until you blow a motor! That's when the bigger fun begins ;)

crazyrx7
quote:
Originally posted by MixManMash
It's all in good fun. Until you blow a motor! That's when the bigger fun begins ;)


Been there done that. It is inevitable. If your not breaking parts then you aren't making enough power :thumbup: .

R.K.

vorpalz
Pulled 369 Hp 362 Tq SAE corrected on stock wastegate boost 12 PSI. We decided to keep the boost dialled down as Elijah heard detonation on the first run.

Did better last year with 14# boost, (347 Hp 384 Tq) but I just got the fuel rails in and the Blitz installed the night before the dyno. The heat didn't help either. The A/F was leaning out at the top too, need to address that. Base timing set to 15°.

The dyno did what it was intended: find the weak points in the system so they can be addressed and improved. Once I get everything dialled in, I'll dyno again this summer.

Good to meet everyone on Saturday,

Regards,

MixManMash
quote:
Originally posted by vorpalz
The A/F was leaning out at the top too, need to address that. Base timing set to 15°.


Just add water/methanol injection. Your A/F issues would for the most problem be solved.

mike300zxt
quote:
Originally posted by vorpalz
Pulled 369 Hp 362 Tq SAE corrected on stock wastegate boost 12 PSI. We decided to keep the boost dialled down as Elijah heard detonation on the first run.



What injectors/turbos/chip are you running?

You might want to try a boost leak test. You'd think a boost leak would cause the car to run richer, but in many cases, it still causes detonation. I'm guessing it has something to do with either a venturi effect, or that it's throwing the ECU into a different fuel/timing curve, which the ECU doesn't correct for at WOT.

Anyway, boost leaks may be your problem. If I ever get detonation at 19PSI, that's always what it turns out to be.

vorpalz
I boost leak tested the night before, and I have one back by the EGR, not huge, but annoying and almost impossible to get to.

The chip is a JWT single POP 555cc Fed Manual chip. I've got Sport 500's and Stillen IC's. Mahesh was asking if the JWT chip is optimized for stock turbos in that configuration, or if it makes any difference with the Sport 500's. When Greg was custom tuning at ZTune last month, is the turbo size taken into account when developing a tune?

Another issue is that it was 36°C in the dyno bay. Even with the fans, it was only moving more hot air past the IC's. Everyone seemed to suffer, as numbers were down, with the exception of Bill W. who posted a great set of pulls @ 16#.

But you're right, I need to fix that EGR leak... grrrrr

Regards,

mike300zxt
quote:
Originally posted by vorpalz
I boost leak tested the night before, and I have one back by the EGR, not huge, but annoying and almost impossible to get to.

The chip is a JWT single POP 555cc Fed Manual chip. I've got Sport 500's and Stillen IC's. Mahesh was asking if the JWT chip is optimized for stock turbos in that configuration, or if it makes any difference with the Sport 500's. When Greg was custom tuning at ZTune last month, is the turbo size taken into account when developing a tune?

Another issue is that it was 36°C in the dyno bay. Even with the fans, it was only moving more hot air past the IC's. Everyone seemed to suffer, as numbers were down, with the exception of Bill W. who posted a great set of pulls @ 16#.

But you're right, I need to fix that EGR leak... grrrrr

Regards,



The JWT chip will support Stock/Sport 500/530BB/600/700BB turbos. I ran it at 19PSI with Sport 530s, and it's even rich enough for the Specialty-Z 3" DPs. The chip tune isn't your problem. If it's running lean on the dyno, it's the boost leak or a bad injector.

I would fix that boost leak and make sure there are no others (they may show up when that one is fixed). Do you know where it is? I hope it's not the intake manifold...but that would explain why it detonates at such low boost. I would also check your base timing and make sure that it is at 15 degrees. What are you running for colder plugs? What gas do you use? I know you guys don't have the Chevron 94 that we have in BC, so you can't boost quite as high, but you should still be able to do 15/16 safely on your setup when it's running right.

And what do you have for a radiator? I recently switched to an AMS rad with a Nismo thermostat and Redline water wetter, and I'm able to run around town at 19PSI all day long with no detonation (it's gotten up to about 34C here). Last summer I had problems with it heat-soaking on really hot days. The radiator made a much bigger difference in reducing temps and detonation than the ICs did (I also have the Stillen ICs).

Oh...and how's your fuel pressure? The regulator should be replaced every 10 years, so that's something to check as well. If your FPR is black, it's original and should be replaced (the new Nissan ones are silver or gold).

Just a few ideas for you :)

vorpalz
To answer some of your questions:

fuel: Husky 94 ethanol blend. Definitely works to ward off detonation, as I have experienced in the past.

injectors: new style Nismo 555cc on a 300Degree fuel rail with Specialty Z AN-fitted braided steel hoses. However, both the fuel dampener and FPR are the old stock black units. I will change those out in the next week. Also, haven't checked the fuel pressure via gauge, will do as well.

boost leak: pretty sure its not the plenum, I re-fitted carefully with a new gasket when I did the rail install. I'm positive its coming from the EGR...

plugs: NGK PFR6B11B's. Changed out 2 years ago.

codes: was getting a 34 (det. sensor) but with fixing the plug connector, it seems to be gone.

rad: Koyo with Redline water wetter, 60/40 water/antifreeze

timing 15° BTDC as reported from Conzult and Datascan.

Thanks for the ideas... I'll keep you posted.

Regards,

mike300zxt
quote:
Originally posted by vorpalz
boost leak: pretty sure its not the plenum, I re-fitted carefully with a new gasket when I did the rail install. I'm positive its coming from the EGR...



Ok, cool, it sounds like you've got most things covered.

It's not the plenum that usually leaks, it's usually the lower intake manifold where it meets the heads. Several cars have come into the shop with leaking intake manifold gaskets (mine included). They seem to usually be leaking near the back, and it seems to happen on most cars beween 140-160K. Hopefully yours is something easier to fix though :)

MixManMash
I have a boost leak in the same area (EGR) and I am running at about 11.5:1.

-JK-
quote:
Originally posted by vorpalz

But you're right, I need to fix that EGR leak... grrrrr



Delete it!

MixManMash
I agree. The only problem is that it requires a motor pull to get at it if I am not mistaken. I hear the bolts come right up against the fire wall.

mike300zxt
quote:
Originally posted by MixManMash
I agree. The only problem is that it requires a motor pull to get at it if I am not mistaken. I hear the bolts come right up against the fire wall.


We usually:

- Pull the EGR solenoids and cap-off the vacuum lines.
- Cut the EGR tubes off and install the 300degree block plates on the plenum.

That will disable the EGR valve, and eliminate any chance of EGR vacuum leaks. You can remove the EGR valve and install the manifold plug next time the engine is out.

MixManMash
Good to know. Thanks Mike.




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