| At home body-work sucks. - Click HERE for Original Thread |
| Momentum |
Such a long, boring process.
Does anybody have any painting tips for someone who has never done it before? How many coats of primer/paint etc. Also i still have to buy a air gun to spray with, any idea which brands are good?
Also, moulding side skirts so that they look flush with the side of thecar... just fiberglass and lots of sanding? Or should i be trying some other method?
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| TrevorK |
quote:
Originally posted by Momentum
Such a long, boring process.
Does anybody have any painting tips for someone who has never done it before?
Practice.
Practice.
And practice.
It takes a lot of skill to turn out a high quality paint job, and you shouldn't expect it to just "come to you" the first time you paint.
quote:
How many coats of primer/paint etc. Also i still have to buy a air gun to spray with, any idea which brands are good?
I would discuss this with the guys you buy the paint from. They will tell you everything you need, mixtures, etc....
The key with the gun is that you'll want HVLP if you're doing it in a garage.
I would strongly advise you try to find someone who can teach you, hands on, for what you're doing. They don't have to be there the whole time, but have them introduce you to the concepts / skills involved and then you can work away at it. |
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| Flamewerkz |
Hey man,
I'm not a pro, but I've done quite a bit of work on my Porsche. I can show you some little things that I picked up when I come by to get the neon. |
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| wankel20b |
i would strongly advice against molding your kit to you car for one simple reason. fiberglass and metel move at different rates therefore your chances of cracking is next to 100%
now for your primer i would suggest going to southtown napa on argyll road. get a highbuild primer; ppg i have found to be the nicest sanding primer i dont think they supply it there though.
usually 3 coats is what we do at the shop depending on how the bodywork is, more coats the straiter your going to be able to get your lines and waves out.
buy a can of etch primer to cover all your bare metel spots, and if your priming on plastic get an adhesion promoter. this is a must for plastic parts.
if your painting the vehicle yourself you will need a sealer prior to your color and then clear.
like trevorK said it takes alot of practice to get a nice finish on a car
be sure to sand primer with 320 grit to get everything strait and buz over it with 600 to get all you scratches out..
enjoy alot of demanding pricision work..not to mention the dust:D |
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| wankel20b |
for paint guns it depends how much you want to fork out.
devilbiss-great guns expensive and made for the professional
sata- very expensive but will last a lifetime.
iowata- not to much experience with this gun but for the price it better be good
i would suggest foing to princess auto get a hvlp(high volume low pressure) gun they are cheap but they will work for your primers at least. they would work for your paint to but thats your call. |
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| Nis240 |
Go to Princess Auto and buy one of their HVLP touch up guns....Its green and i picked one up for $40 a couple of weeks ago to do my sideskirts, and front and rear lip.
Make sure to get a water remover for your air compressor, keep everything clean and free of grease and go slow when applying the paint. The best thing to do would be to prep a hood or some other spare body parts and practise so that you can set up the gun and stuff. |
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| tony949 |
| so your saying molding the kit is a bad idea? is there no other way to do it and avoid cracking?? |
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| STiPWR |
quote:
Originally posted by tony949
so your saying molding the kit is a bad idea? is there no other way to do it and avoid cracking??
Bolt it on. |
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| wankel20b |
in my mind molding a kit should never be done, only because it just will not hold out. no matter which way you do it, it will always crack: when is the question. but making it look professional is easy!
pick up a tube of flexible seam sealer(you can also pick that up at napa) get some half inch tape and follow the line that you wanted smoothed with the tape about 3/16 of an inch evenly spaced along the whole line put seam sealer along the line and smooth with your finger immediatly after..if you want a more detailed description or even some other ways to make it look nice!! |
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| 78Nova |
| One of the biggest mistakes people make when sanding and prepping is sanding each panel individually. Make sure you "block sand" the panels' edges to make the panels flow seamlessly from one to another with only the panel edge to break the body panels. |
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| malby |
Don't use fiberglass!!! Use plastic body filler. Rage gold or fusion. Don't listen to these guys, make your car different and mold that shit in, then it looks pimp, not ricer like all these fools.
Lates |
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| fugumerkur |
hey guys, When I do my Cossie kit... its gettin molded on.
(and I work in a body shop!! FTW)
From personal experience I know of an adhesive that will keep the kit on there and it has the slight flex you need to keep it from cracking at the seems.
Its called Fusor, its a Two part Epoxy adhesive, you need a special gun to mix it ( I don't think it comes in seperate cans anymore)
This shit is tough, sandable like bondo but holds like superglue.
This stuff is good for fibreglass repair and probably even urethane bumper repair.
it will adhere to pretty much anything and its also available in the city.
Theres a comparison chart.
http://www.lordfulfillment.com/upload/SI3155.pdf
The 147 medium in plastic adhesives is what you are looking for, For Spoilers , ground effects so on. Paintable and sets up pretty quick.
Your going to want to prep the bonding surfaces with at least bare minimum 320 grit. 180 would hold the best but would requiring repainting of some body panels.!
CAUTION.... With molding on a kit you will seal in any rust that may be hidden in the panels, this rust if left alone will cause the kit to peel off taking the paint with it.
If the areas are improperly prepped then its not going to hold, any wax left on the paint may cause a lack of adhesion.
Also, this is permenant, its not coming off unless you CUT it off. So any mods that need to be done to the car should be done.
And saying molding a kit on is useless! Ha..
I worked on a 96 vette that had its kit molded on with the Fusor adhesive and it came in for repair. Scratches on the underside of the front bumper and rockers (molded on Chin spoiler and sideskirts) because of parking lots. Thing held up to thorough driving and frequent Autocrosses. |
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| gab |
| hey merkur guy, i think you guys are talking about 2 different things. and both of you are right. he is talking about putting a kit on and moulding it seamless to metal. many have tried, only trailer bunnies survive. you are talking about using speedgrip to adhere to the vehicle. but still keeping the seam from the kit to the body. and as far as the vette goes, it would work well as it has fiberglass panels. if i am wrong someone straighten my ass out!! |
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| fugumerkur |
I totally meant bonding it on to the car. Now seamless is a part of it. Thats where you run a calking style line on the body kit to ease in the curves of the kit or hard lines making a softer edge.
That was all.
you can grind down and modify existing kits to make the edges smaller to make less of a noticible seam. You don't want your car looking like the side of a cavalier, the body kit is to break it up a little. |
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| zaqxsw123456 |
WOW have u guys seen the mold job on green/gold AE86
his molding job did not crack, the side skirt crack before the mold
so go for it n mold your stuff (you need to learn how to mold first)
find the dude with the 86 and ask him how |
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