| stealth |
OK, I have a problem here with a buddies car.
The car sat for awhile and now the battery is dead. Fine, we charge it.
Now it doesn't hold a charge at all, only when its driving.
So I think the alternator is not charging the battery so I get a new one and put it in.
The alternator now just overpowers the battery, and causes electrical problems in the car.
Put the old one back in and it is fine, just when you shut it off, you can't start it back up.
Could this be the battery?
Any help would be great.
Thanks. |
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| 95IntegraRS |
| If the car is being overpowered, could be a problem with the diodes... do the lights flicker? |
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| stealth |
quote:
Originally posted by 95IntegraRS
If the car is being overpowered, could be a problem with the diodes... do the lights flicker?
I haven't paid attention to the lights.
But say I have the drivers door open, the notification bell, makes weird ass nosies and cuts out. |
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| 95IntegraRS |
| Its probably related to the diodes within the alternator then, causing fluctuations in the charge. |
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| stealth |
quote:
Originally posted by 95IntegraRS
Its probably related to the diodes within the alternator then, causing fluctuations in the charge.
So, maybe the one I bought from partsource was no good?
Would you suggest I buy another alternator? |
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| 95IntegraRS |
| I would take that one back to Partsource and get another one. If you bought a reman. unit, its possible it wasn't rebuilt properly. |
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| stealth |
quote:
Originally posted by 95IntegraRS
I would take that one back to Partsource and get another one. If you bought a reman. unit, its possible it wasn't rebuilt properly.
Ya, thats what I was thinking. I will try another one and see what happens.
Thx for the help Matt. |
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| 95IntegraRS |
| No problem. Hope it works out. |
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| chris f |
Matt, the diodes in the alt are part of the rectifier bridge, turned a/c to d/c, the other diodes are part of the diode treo, stops the stater from being energized when its not charging.
Sounds like the new alt had a spike when you put it with the dead battery. when the voltage regulater sees a very low amount of voltage in the system it pulls as much currant as it can to charge the battery. when the battery recovers, with can happen very fast there is a spike in the voltage. best thing to do is get a volt meter. mesure,
Voltage at the battry engine off,
voltage at the chargeing post on the alt, engine off
mesure voltage at the battery durning cranking, note the lowest drop.
mesure the voltage at the battery durning charging
mesure voltage at the charging post on the alt durning charging
if charging voltage is low, less then or equal to voltage at the battery before the engine running, give it some gas if the voltage comes up but drops with rpm, its the battery, it it goes up and stays up, it just needed to be "excited" charging voltsge should be 14.4v
record all these voltages at there points and get back to us, we will go from there. |
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| crzyone |
Take the bad altenator to Joe's Auto Electric. Its near Fort Road and Yellowhead. He does amazing work, and its guaranteed.
He did the altenator on my GTR, everyone else could not get one or could not fix it. A week later I had my altenator good as new, he had to order parts from Ontario but he fixed it.
My altenator rebuild cost $120 which is pretty cheap. Altenator looked like new when I got it back. |
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| stealth |
Well I got another alternator, this one works fine, but the car is still dead once I shut it off after a few minutes.
SO I am going to take a wild guess and say my battery is screwed and that I need a new one.
I left it at Crappy Tire to get tested, and I will see what happens.
Thanks. |
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| stealth |
quote:
Originally posted by stealth
Well I got another alternator, this one works fine, but the car is still dead once I shut it off after a few minutes.
SO I am going to take a wild guess and say my battery is screwed and that I need a new one.
I left it at Crappy Tire to get tested, and I will see what happens.
Thanks.
It was the battery!:blue: |
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