| kellyk75 |
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It's late, so brief question.
I have a vibration in the car that peaks at around 70-80 kph. I am assuming that it is the drive shaft and not the tires (through elimination) + an independant mechanic narrowed it down as well.
So my question is..... how long should it take to tear down the exhaust, heat shield and anything else in the way to get at the drive shaft for troubleshooting? It will be done on jackstands in a garage with no air tools and the clutch was changed 1 year (8,000 Km's) ago (meaning the exhaust was dropped). I am assuming the clutch mechanic didn't mark the drive shaft or put in the bearing spacers on assembly. Clutch was done before I owned the car.
Thanks, no need for an answer tonight:D |
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| Inzane |
quote:
Originally posted by kellyk75
how long should it take to tear down the exhaust, heat shield and anything else in the way to get at the drive shaft for troubleshooting? It will be done on jackstands in a garage with no air tools
Shouldn't take you more than an hour to get to that point. Less if all your bolts come off nice and easily. |
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| kellyk75 |
That's funny. Gord also said it was a snap..... but the mechanic I had diagnose it said.... and I quote "no amount of money would make me take on that job". Guess I won't be using him again. Wasn't sure if it was that it was a tough job or just not worth his time. He said it was ugly though....... :dunno:
I already figured it wasn't that bad. |
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| itsa300zx |
| I changed/replaced my driveshaft this summer. It only took about 2 hours once the cars was up on stands. |
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| Inzane |
R&R'ing a driveshaft is a snap. But I could see trying to diagnose an imbalance somewhere and re-clocking the driveshaft to be a bit of a tedious process.
BTW, if it turns out your CSB (center support bearing) is bad, you may want to consider replacing your entire OEM 2-piece driveshaft with an aftermarket 1-piece. |
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| kellyk75 |
| I have seen those on Concept Z (or ztune.ca). I would probably go that route, but I'm hoping for just a mis-allignment.:fingersx: |
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| kellyk75 |
Tackled it a bit last night..... and I am 2 for 2. Only tried the lower bolts on the cat to h-pipe flange, but snapped them both. I think the shop that did the cultch used a sealer on the gasket. There was an abundance of very red powder that was coming out of the hole as I backed one bolt out.
Question, are the upper "studs" and bolt one piece or is it a true "stud and bolt"? More clearly, does the bolt come off the stud and the stud stays in the flange?
Also, anyone here replace the rear transmission mount? |
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| slinky |
| do you have after market rims????? ihad the same problem and turned out to be the rims were not sitting on the hub right |
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| kellyk75 |
| Both the winter & summer tires did it with both combinations of rims. I also put hub rings on this spring... they should be good to go. |
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| kellyk75 |
quote:
Originally posted by Inzane
R&R'ing a driveshaft is a snap. But I could see trying to diagnose an imbalance somewhere and re-clocking the driveshaft to be a bit of a tedious process.
BTW, if it turns out your CSB (center support bearing) is bad, you may want to consider replacing your entire OEM 2-piece driveshaft with an aftermarket 1-piece.
Jay, have you done this yet? I have heard mixed opinnions with going with the 1 piece.
I have been told my U-joints are bad, but other shops say the U-joints wouldn't cause the problem unless there is play (which there isn't). I just have flat spots. My CSB seems good, and the run-out was way within tolerance. Bought a rear tranny mount, I will install that and see if it helps.
This is a PITA!!! |
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| Inzane |
quote:
Originally posted by kellyk75
Jay, have you done this yet? I have heard mixed opinnions with going with the 1 piece.
Nope, I have not.
I've heard mostly good things about going with a 1-piece. However not all 1-piece DSs are created equal, and the bad things I have heard were typically associated with a poorly designed product.
As far as the weight savings goes, unfortunately its not THAT much for a TT, but moreso for an NA.
To sum it up, for the most part, the driveshaft mod is one to save for when you need it (ie. when you need to replace, upgrade!), otherwise its hardly worth the bother. |
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| kellyk75 |
Well, I may need it but we will see. I have read good things about the Z1 driveshafts and most people that have issues probably don't "clock" them. I will have to keep playing and see what I come up with.
As for the weight savings, that would be a plus for me....... thank god I don't have a Twin Turbo and can utilize the extra power:rolleyes: :tear: |
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| ZEguy |
| sounds like i should get a one-peice carbon driveshaft for my N/A? |
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| superspeed |
| dont do it yet.....when u r doign that tt swap u had in mind wait for that do it alll at once and only do it if ur car is vibrating bad..... i have a auto 2+2 1 peice driveshaft if anyone is intersted :) |
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| ZEguy |
| that swap is going to be done no doubt about it, so i will take your advise.ill call you later tonight about the other stuff, if not sometime tomorrow for sure.:thumbup: |
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| kellyk75 |
quote:
Originally posted by ZEguy
that swap is going to be done no doubt about it, so i will take your advise.ill call you later tonight about the other stuff, if not sometime tomorrow for sure.:thumbup:
Me too.... just not right away. Here is some interesting info found on the "crappy" site I mentioned.
http://www.z1motorsports.com/PDFs/NATTconversion.pdf
A writeup that is more of a diary, but interesting....
http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread...age=1&pp=30
I only got 4 pages in........
Now....... bring on the flames!!!!!!!!
:flamesuit :neener: |
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