| Magnum |
| Im at 5600km on my RSX-S and the dipstick reads exactly the same as the day I got it.... I thought my car was supposed to burn lots of oil. That and the dealership said to keep the same oil in till 7k.. which Is also pretty fucked up.. |
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| GTS Jeff |
| uh dont listen to the dealership. u should change your oil man.. |
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| WookeysRX7 |
| yeah man, change your freakin oil! I thought you were suppose to change your oil more freak when the car is brand new and then slowly ease into the every 3 months or 5000kms.? |
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| mrintegra |
| no, trust me, you don't want to change your oil till you hit 8000km, there is a special break in fluid that they put in to help the engine break in better, than after the first 8000km, you can change you oil any time you want |
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| SplineZ |
ehh..
New cars are supposed to be "broken in" until around 1600km, which then the oil should be changed.. and from then on it could be treated like a normal car.. Some cars come broken in from the factory (Nissan come to mind)...
On that note: My 2.8v6 (a chev motor notorious for leaking/burning oil) has had 50k km on the rebuild. The engine is STILL tight. The oil level is the same as the day I change it.. 5000km or 3 months, whichever comes sooner.. and the last oil change I did, I could STILL see amber in the waste oil... not black like it was 2-3 changes before..
With that being said.. you REALLY should change your oil yourself.. Quality time with your car is good and it will pay off in the long run. This way you can garuntee what you put in your car, instead of having to rely on the dealership. Unless they tell you it voids your warrenty, bond with your car for the 30min it takes :)
James Z |
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| dmak_el |
check this out here
and there is a part like this "The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc..." |
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| Pro Drag |
Wherever applicable follow manufacturer's break-in instructions.
The link that Dmak posted has it time and place, but I don't think that time and place is a new car motor that is under warranty.
If the motor's sole purpose in life is racing, then by all means break it in according to Dmak's link. When I drag raced my snowmobile for 2 years on Grass and Snow that is how I broke my motor in. It was the fastest "stock" 600 cc twin in Northern Alberta on grass that last year I raced it. I broke it in on "dino" oil for the first couple of tanks of gas, then fed it a steady diet of Amsoil Race blend oil (the red stuff).
If longevity is your thing, I would be more inclined to give the engine an "easy" break in. Drive the engine like it is going to be driven. |
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