| Amplifier Help!!! - Click HERE for Original Thread |
| Ken_D |
| ok well i've just recently installed 6 new speakers into my car 2 tweeters on the dash and 4 61/2" on the doors and back... but i found out that i needed an amplifier cause my volume on the deck can only reach a max of 18/50 any higher and it starts turning off and on... so my question is! what would be the best choice of amplifer for me to get? 2way 3way or 4way??? Please help me out i really need to finish this before i start forgetting about it again, thanks |
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| Godzilla |
| for a speaker set up your best bet is a 4ch amp. it will retain the ability to controll fade and balance with your deck. |
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| Ken_D |
| 4ch? alrights ill be looking for some then thank dood i appreciate it |
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| AudiInProgress |
What kind of friggin' deck can't power some new speakers? That's whack.
Edit: Not that amplifying your speakers is a bad idea to begin with, it'll provide you with amazing quality (and volume) of sound. |
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| Ken_D |
| i dunno man its a JVC and it cost me 160 bucks but yeah if i increase the volume any higher than 18 it starts turning off and on.... |
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| Ravendarat |
quote:
Originally posted by Ken_D
i dunno man its a JVC and it cost me 160 bucks but yeah if i increase the volume any higher than 18 it starts turning off and on....
Then there is another problem to be delt with there, possibly a shorted coil or wire but that deck turning on and off isnt because of a lack of output power, its something else |
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| Ken_D |
| hmm i'm pretty sure none of the wires are loose and aren't connected properly, i know that my ground wire though is connected to a screw cause there was no other wire where the ground could be connected... but other than that everything is where it should be. well im pretty sure its because i have an older car and im changing the sound system because i'm not going to be bringing a nice car to school everyday... so since theres still 2 years left i might as well make the inside of the car sound nice.. |
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| stybscelica |
I would say it comes down to Ohms. I would suggest in your hast to upgrade you spliced 6 speakers into four ports. My guess is you connected both the front channel 6 1/2's and the tweet to the two front speaker outputs. Depending on what the ohm tolerances are, your deck will short out for sure. JVC has internal overload protection which is why it is turning off and on.
am i right on how you wired it??
Cheers |
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| Ravendarat |
quote:
Originally posted by stybscelica
I would say it comes down to Ohms. I would suggest in your hast to upgrade you spliced 6 speakers into four ports. My guess is you connected both the front channel 6 1/2's and the tweet to the two front speaker outputs. Depending on what the ohm tolerances are, your deck will short out for sure. JVC has internal overload protection which is why it is turning off and on.
am i right on how you wired it??
Cheers
Not the issue in this case. While the tweeters may very well be a 4 ohm load their draw is very minimal and will cause a fairly minor change in the impedence load on the deck, certainly not enough to cause the deck to cut out. With that said it is my understanding that the deck was turning off, not that the sound was cutting out. On JVC decks when they overheat the sound turns off but the deck remains on. |
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| JeepGirl |
Sounds like someone reversed the polarity of one of their speaker wires....
My home sub-amp will cut out if the polarity is reversed.
Some amps will overheat and cut out like that too if the poles are reversed...
If you have messy wiring, say from a previous owner, just use a AA or 9V battery to figure out your polarity.. Just stick your speaker wires on the batteries + and - and when you see the speaker pop OUTWARDS you'll know which wire is + and which is -
P.S.
Don't press and hold the battery on the speaker leads for an extended time, you can kill you voice coils by doing so. Just basically press and release so you can tell which way the speaker cone is going when it's given a signal.
P.S.S.
You might also have a bad ground somewhere behind your dash..... |
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| Ken_D |
| im the one who connected and installed the speakers and before i ever screwed them back in i checked to see if they worked and made sure i knew which wire connected to which and yes they all did. so i couldn't have made a mistake on the wiring... maybe it might be a loose wire behind the deck but the only one i can think of is the ground wire itself.. i taped up all the unconnected/connected wires behind the deck and made sure none of the wire was exposed or touching...so could it be the ground wire? |
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| Ken_D |
The Deck i installed is the JVC KD-AR480
Product Information
• Power Output: 200W Max. (MOSFET 50W x 4), 20 X 4 RMS
• SAT Radio Ready**
• Ready for iPod*
• Detachable Flip-Down Face
• Front AUX Input
The speakers i just installed are two tweeters which are 35watts rms 105watts peak and 4ohms, four 61/2" which are 60watts rms 180watts peak and 4 ohms. and as an extra question if i need the amp how powerful of an amp must i install in order for me to get the best out of these speakers? |
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| stybscelica |
i think you forgot Speakers are rated on power handleing NOT power draw. You can put 1 watt or 1000 watts to a speaker its rating will tell you if it will be destroyed at that power level.
If it's wired incorrectly Ohm wise it WILL overload the deck reguardless of power output from the deck or power handling rating from the speakers.
My guess is you have two 4 ohm speakers wired in Parallel. Two, 4 ohm speakers in Parallell/Parallel will end up an 1 ohm. There is no deck on the market that is 1 ohm stable. Try wiring the front channels Parallel/series.It will bring you back up to four ohm's.
Here is a diagram
Parallel/ Parallel
Series /Parallel
Now you can end my arguement and tell us is the power to the deck shutting off or is the sound cutting out with the deck staying lit and functional?
Cheers |
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| Ravendarat |
quote:
Originally posted by stybscelica
i think you forgot Speakers are rated on power handleing NOT power draw. You can put 1 watt or 1000 watts to a speaker its rating will tell you if it will be destroyed at that power level.
If it's wired incorrectly Ohm wise it WILL overload the deck reguardless of power output from the deck or power handling rating from the speakers.
My guess is you have two 4 ohm speakers wired in Parallel. Two, 4 ohm speakers in Parallell/Parallel will end up an 1 ohm. There is no deck on the market that is 1 ohm stable. Try wiring the front channels Parallel/series.It will bring you back up to four ohm's.
Here is a diagram
Parallel/ Parallel
Series /Parallel
Now you can end my arguement and tell us is the power to the deck shutting off or is the sound cutting out with the deck staying lit and functional?
Cheers
2 four ohm speakers in parallel is a 2 ohm load not a one ohm load. Many decks will run at two ohms, just not nessasarilty be real happy with it. |
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| kevito_ |
quote:
Originally posted by Ravendarat
Then there is another problem to be delt with there, possibly a shorted coil or wire but that deck turning on and off isnt because of a lack of output power, its something else
Yeah man, there might be something wrong. I had a deck that was dimming and turning off before the volume was cranked high... I found a wire was actually cut into a piece of metal somewhere behind the deck in the console. I replaced the wire with a longer one (so it didn't get caught) and it worked pretty good after that.
quote:
Sounds like someone reversed the polarity of one of their speaker wires....
Reversing the polarity of the wires should have no effect on the amplifer, whatesoever... it just makes dead spots from destructive acoustic interference. A lot of line-input, self powered subwoofers have a phase shift, which is the same as reversing the polarity of the wires. If the amp you have is killing itself because they are switched, something must be screwed with the way the amplifer is made or the entire circuit might be messed. (that is of course if the speakers aren't of a special design that requires a specific polarity)
quote:
2 four ohm speakers in parallel is a 2 ohm load not a one ohm load. Many decks will run at two ohms, just not nessasarilty be real happy with it.
Yeah man... 1/x = 1/4 + 1/4 = 1/2 => x = 2 the formula is 1/R = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + ... + 1/RN for parralel circuits (or 1/Z = 1/Z1 + 1/Z2 + ... + 1/N3) and R = R1 + R2 + ... + RN (or Z = Z1 + Z2 + ... + ZN). Just do some math to figure out what will give you the best setup. |
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| AudiInProgress |
quote:
Originally posted by Ravendarat
2 four ohm speakers in parallel is a 2 ohm load not a one ohm load. Many decks will run at two ohms, just not nessasarilty be real happy with it.
The problem with that is, most subs are DUAL 4ohm voice coils, which means when you put two subs run in parallel is 1ohm load... |
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| kevito_ |
All you fancy rich people and your 'dual voice coils'
...boourns to you, my dear sir. |
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| Ken_D |
| k i've tried some of your suggestions and now my volume goes up to 35/50 to 40/50 depending on the bass of the song if its big bass then it goes low and if its low then i can go high volume, but yeah nothing else seems to be a problem |
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| kevito_ |
| That's good to hear :thumbup: |
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| Ken_D |
| but yes for now thanks alot guys |
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| stybscelica |
You still have an Ohm problem if it still clipping. (Sound cutting out) your deck wont last long if you are running at the max. Just food for thought.
Cheers;) |
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