| GsiTurbo is back - Click HERE for Original Thread |
| GsiTurbo |
Hey all,
So after my recent problems with a blown engine (those of you who replied to the other posts in regards to this do know), I finally got the car back on the road again. Everything was delayed a bit, as after I fired up the engine for the first time I had no oil pressure (sorted out), alternator was not charging (sorted) and I was getting coolant all over the place... GRRR!!!! (sorted). New p&p/rebuild head was installed together with new rings and bearings. The question is, what would be the 'preferred' amount of kilometers to let the engine all settle down a bit? Anything particular I should avoid (I know about over-revving and slowing down with the gears) for the next little while? Oh, and for the time being the boost has been set back to 5 psi for now...I know myself and I dont want to be too tempted with too much boost for now. I really don't feel like ripping the engine apart again any time soon. Any tips are greatly appreciated.
Thanks!!!! :rolleyes: :D |
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| SRBURG13 |
| Perhaps just like any other newer engine, you should wait for about 1500km, oil change, and then you should be good to go. I'm sure that is more than enough break-in time. Hope to see this thing go at BOI. |
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| GsiTurbo |
| Mineral Mobil1 10W30 should be allright for the break-in period, right? |
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| dmak_el |
| i think it's better to change the oil the after 100km....or maybe even sooner....but that's just me...i think the first oil change is very important |
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| SplineZ |
Any oil will work... Ive heard the best way is to use Dino for the first oil change, and then you can use regular synthetic stuff...
James Z |
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| GsiTurbo |
Hmm..I guess I am back to square one :( :crying: :tear: Went to PetroCan to get some gas...filled the tank...start the engine....left nice and thick cloud of white smoke thru the exhaust....and doing that since on idle... I am ready to grab a sledge hammer and do some serious harm.
Anyhow, I will be doing leakdown test tommorow as I dont think this is blown headgasket, as I wasnt even boosting the engine just yet. Everything was assembled super clean with machined head and the block. I have a feeling the 'new' head I was sold might have been cracked :dunno: :wtf: |
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| SplineZ |
Is this the same motor as a turbo sunbird? or is it unique to your gsi? if you just had the head machined and such.. then maybe a bum gasket? did ya torque it down enough?
*shrug*
I totally understand your frustration.. Myself I have been having clutch issues.. and its driving me INSANE!)*(@#$
Good Luck
James Z |
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| GsiTurbo |
quote:
Is this the same motor as a turbo sunbird?
The motor was swapped from Sunbird GT. I really want the results of the test....I just need to know whats wrong...god, I really dont feel like putting everything apart AGAIN. Can someone sponsor my new cylinder head?? |
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| Erfinder |
My grandfather used to own Gopher Engine rebuilders.... they were one of the larger rebuilders here in Alberta... unfortunatly my uncle took it over and ran it into heavy debt within about a year and it no longer exists at this point (this is like 10 years ago)
Needless to say there is a specific break-in routine he allways told me to follow.
First off it's really important to seat the rings correctly...otherwise you get "white" smoke due to the rings not sealing perfectly.
It's been a while but there was something about going from a rolling start and absolutely flooring it up to redline and then hitting the brakes.....remember him saying something about oil pressure rising when you decelerate quickly.
As well he told me never to drive on the highway at first since the steady load at a single RPM does something bad ( again... 10 years ago... don't remember details that well)
He said if you go on the highway be sure to fluctuate speed between 80km/h and 120km/h.
This was just for the first few hundred kilometers.... then an immediate oil change.
Oh ya.... he said never to cheap out on the first filter....its really important to get every little chunk of steel from the rings and cylinder walls.
He told me not to worry about putting expensive oil in during the first few hundred because it goes down the drain right away.
I think he told me to do another oil change at 1500km....don't remember.
Needless to say my old 83 Toyata Celica GTS went like hell.... he shaved the head to increase compression. I could chirp the 225 series Pirelli tires into third gear. Sold it with 379,000 km to a pizza delivery guy....the engine just got stronger with age. When I sold it he asked how the clutch was.... I said take it to redline and drop it hard into second.....talk about whiplash...the guy had a grin a mile wide.... I got every last cent I asked for. Rebuilt it at 180K and put about 200K on the rebuilt engine before I sold it.(the rest of the car was falling apart)
So needless to say I live by his break in rules....have had three rebuilts and not even a hint of trouble on any of them.
GsiTurbo... Did you go to the performance head shop on Coronet??? (Alberta cylinder head service) |
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| Erfinder |
Here is a decent discussion on engine break in periods
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
I also noticed that many of the rebuilders said to absolutely avoid synthetics for the first part of the break in because your rings won't seat properly. (probably not enough friction to keep the cylinders from glazing over)
I said to go to redline.... that might not be correct..... I remember the flooring it part but I don't think I was supposed to go right to redline.....it's supposed to be very brief high load periods.
I bet you just have to beat the hell out of the engine a little and wear down the high spots.
That's my two cents....take it or leave it.... I've had good luck with the process. |
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