| LCMC |
| ok so i decided to paint my 87 rx7 a flat black. does any one know where to good flat black paint. Also would anyone know how to paint a car flat black? i was told to sand, primer then rattle can the car. But what kind of sand paper to use? I was wondering if a profesional flat black paint job would be not as expensive. ALso i was wondering if i jus bondo the rust then just paint the bondo. has anyone painted flat black? i was wondering how it would look up close like 2 feet away. i would rather have a flat black car then a car that has alot of rust.. any advice would help! |
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| GT45 |
With flat paint, everything shows up, all the imperfections. Like dents and even scratches.
Gloss hides most of it to a certain extent.
quote:
Originally posted by LCMC
does any one know where to good flat black paint. Also would anyone know how to paint a car flat black?
um.......yeah
point and shoot? Even strokes? like any other paint job.
If you're doing it at home, probably on an FC, just do it for cheap. It's gonna look like crap anyways. I'm just being blunt. |
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| anschutz_93 |
I don't really know much, so take all this with a grain of salt....
Before you start: Everything that can come off, comes off. Bumper, hood, trim, lights, personally I would do doors, seals and hatch as well. Buy a $100 sprayer and a large capacity compressor. You also need a garage as you cannot paint a car outside.
Sanding: don't sand down to metal, you will never get a coat of primer as good as what the car came with. Probably start with 300grit, end with 500? Others would have to clarify, or just use google.
After sanding: Clean your garage like you have never cleaned it before. Useless shit that has been collecting dust for 10 years, just throw out. Vacuum all surfaces including the floor. I would recommend using a wet cloth and mop over everything. Ideally you would set up some kind of paint booth but most people don't have a garage large enough to warrant this.
Rust: If it is rust holes Bondo is no use for you, bond isn't a filler. The rust has to be removed. If you have light surface rust sand down to bare metal use rust-morte or a similar chemical and apply Bondo overtop. If it is anything major you have to cut and weld for anything to last more than 6 months, depending on the location fiberglass might be your friend (its really easy to work with). If it is something easy to replace like fenders, go pick up some rust free fenders rather than fixing the garbage ones.
Painting itself: A steady hand and rattle can will look "ok" if your 10 feet away. Get within arms reach and you will be able to see the individual strokes regardless of how well it was applied. If you buy a spray gun and have a compressor with a large enough reserve you can do a "decent job" that being said you still wont have a show car. The easiest color to paint would be a variation of a slight gloss white, if you want your car to look presentable I would suggest getting a singe stage white. Flat black might be ok, but you would have to get a really really flat "rough" looking black to hide all the imperfections because this being your first time painting, application won't be even.
All in all, it will take tens of hours since you don't know what you are doing. Probably set aside 20hrs and a few weeks that your car isn't required.
Edit: just saw that you asked if a professional paint job would be expensive.... a half ass job would cost ~2000 and would probably start flaking after the first winter. |
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| Jayturbo |
quote:
Originally posted by GT45
With flat paint, everything shows up, all the imperfections. Like dents and even scratches.
Gloss hides most of it to a certain extent.
I can assure you that gloss black hides nothing, it is the color that any painter will tell you shows EVERYTHING. |
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| 03dc5 |
| As far as the gloss vs the flat goes, if you were doing base/clear you would use the same base just a different clearcoat. Regular clear coat is very glossy, you'll need to find a flat clear. No clear would leave you're paint job very vulnerable to chipping. |
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