| talon help.. - Click HERE for Original Thread |
| jdunbar10 |
ok here is my new problem it seems to be one after another...
but im fixing them all one by one
but anyways after rebuilding my motor my car hauls ass but it stutters and boggs out around 2300rpm, once i get past 2300 its nice and smooth and fun as hell
i changed the o2 sensor, maf sensor. spark plugs and wires and nothing... any ideas plz? |
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| anschutz_93 |
Is this under WOT or just normal driving?
What are you doing for fuel management? If you don't have a wideband setup you should put that at the top of your list. If I had to guess you are probably running really rich in that area... |
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| jdunbar10 |
| i have a wide band and a safc2 no matter what i do i just cant seem to get it running and its just driving anytime or even sitting in the drive way reving up |
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| flatboy |
| Maybe the tps has a flat spot in it? Could maybe put a meter on it and see or switch it out for another to test it. |
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| Awd power |
| i agree with anschutz_93 sounds like fuel/air problem either too lean or too rich... |
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| jdunbar10 |
im kinda leaning to your guys way too
i took off the safc2 and it revs now... anyone know much about doing just a street tune and messing with the safc?? |
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| anschutz_93 |
What size injectors are you running?
Tuning with your wide-band is easy, an egt sensor is a real bonus, but not needed.
Set your low throttle position pretty high (50% will do). Sitting in your driveway keep the rpm constant at each of your points and watch your wide-band. Try to get to ~14.7 across your rpm range (it will never be constant, mine fluctuates from 14.4-14.9 afr at idle). You are still breaking in your engine probably so keep everything a bit rich. 13.5:1 would be fine until you can get your car tuned properly, it wont throw any codes, and you will have no risk of damage... Adjust+/- 3% or so, wait, your ecu will recalculate (changing afr a bit), then change again if necessary. I'm surprised that your low throttle settings are off, my ecu (95 eprom) adjusts the low throttle settings almost perfectly with no fuel correction.
To do the high throttle settings you need to be able to datalog (rpm and afr). I used an lc-1, ssi4 box, and the logworks program. You really need two people to do this efficiently (I tried by myself but wouldn't recommend it. Getting someone else to drive while you tune makes things 10x easier).
Anyways I did a bunch of 3rd gear pulls on the Trans Canada (2000rpm-7000rpm) and one 4th gear pull (lol don't do this... its scary). I had a buddy drive with me in passenger seat, do a couple runs, roughly correct afr, do a couple more runs, and fine tune. I forget what afr I tuned to (its on my laptop) but I think I tried to keep WOT ~12:1. There are two afr which will give the most power, there is a lean best power and a rich best power. I'm not a tuner so I can't tell you which is best but I chose rich best power (based on somewhat incorrect assumption that richer=safer). If you have a EGT watch it, I believe you want to keep your temperatures under 900*F (I don't have an EGT, this number is off the top of my head) You probably should google a couple basic tuning articles, I did and some were actually quite interesting...
For reference, I'm running 540cc injectors, (2G) stock top and bottom end, fp28 turbo (12psi), ported 2G exhaust manifold, bigger throttle body and ported TB elbow, 3" DP to 2.5" exhaust and an injin intake. My corrections very simplified are:
Low 30% High 70%
low
0% 750-1500 (to fix stalling issue when lifting off throttle at high rpm) -10% for rest of rpm range.
High
0% 750-1500 (it doesn't matter what you put here here, you don't ever run high throttle at <1500rpm) -20% 1500-4000, -35 4000-5500, -20 5500-7000.
This is just to give you an idea, if you copy these your car might not even run. I suspect that you are running something retarded like 9:1 (causing a rich misfire), I doubt that you are running lean (because you are running large injectors are you not). You aren't running your base timing really advanced are you? |
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| jdunbar10 |
well not large injectors they are only 550 rather than the 450's
and base timing its kinda around the even mark... |
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| jdunbar10 |
what would cause my safc2 to not let my car run past 2300 rmps? what would i have to change on it?
i have it set to around your setting u put up for me
but if i have the safc plugged in the car likes to sputter around 2300 rmp even with the new settings
is there something in the system that i would have to change? |
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| anschutz_93 |
hmm, I already knew the my settings probably wouldn't work for you but it shouldn't make it worse... I would start by putting all the settings to zero. Your car should run the exact same as if it is unplugged, if it doesn't you have probably done something wrong with the wiring. All that the safc does is reduce/increase the signal from the MAF going to the ecu. The fact that you can't seem to get rid of this problem makes me think that it might be the wiring/safc itself. The ecu should still have most of the control of the fuel/air system, the purpose of the safc is to compliment and fine tune the ecu maps. Does the car only act funny when its in open loop (after warmup when you are driving around) or closed loop (warming up, cruising)
I'll shoot you a PM, I can give you a hand on Friday if you need it. |
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| jdunbar10 |
pretty much i think it acts up all the time open and closed
the idle sometimes revs normal with and without the safc i think just needs to warm up i could be wrong ill make sure to look out for it when i drive it to work tomorrow
and it only boggs and stutters around 2300rpm when the safc2 is plugged in |
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| Flip |
| Find another AFC to borrow and try out. Wouldn't be the first time one craps out. |
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| Awd power |
| AFC is pretty much brand new... |
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| Flip |
"4g63t power question i was just wondering what kinda power do you guys think i could be running..
ive got a 2.4 stroker, gt30r,3' turbo back exhaust, tube ss exhaust manifold, greddy bov, dual stage boost controler,extrernal waste gate, maf translator 780 injectors, fuel reg. wideband, 272 cams, ported polished head maybe a few other small things but thats all i can think of for now
but any ideas?"
Same car? with 550's now? |
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| jdunbar10 |
yes phil l same car just a few different tthings done to it like the 550 and the safc rather than the maf translator
yeha it should be pretty much new but i do have someone comming over with another safc just to give it a shot. maybe might even be wired wrong...?
and new question would my turbo be shot to shit? cuz of all the smoke my car puts (seals)
and the tick only happens when i push on the gas. and gets louder as i put more gas on |
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| jdunbar10 |
so im pretty sure i found out most of my problem.
i cracked my manifold and blew my turbo.... :(
after a few days since putting on my maf sensor when i checked it my turbo was great but now huge shaft play and i would be asuming the seals are toast too...
with almost no driving why woultd this happen? |
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| Flip |
| Brand names? New parts? |
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| jdunbar10 |
all brand names all new parts...
i found the hard way dont go cheap with dsms...
now i think i jumped a timing belt. anyone have a tsi shell they want to sell? 92-94 plz
i think i oly jumped one tooth so if its gotta come out to do it since i will never to a tbelt in a car again i want a new shell |
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