| deathwarden5 |
| Well, today just as I was entering downtown, the integra crapped out. I was just starting at a light, and it stalled basically, dunno why. Tried to get it stared and it just wouldn't. After flooring the gas, it started. I got out of the intersection and pulled over. It was now sputtering something wicked, almost like a cylinder was missing. Idle was really bad, but it wasn't dying. I figured it should at least be good enough to get to school, and a auto teacher could look at it. Block away, and it dies off again. This time it wouldn't start at all. Sat for 5 minutes and it finally turned over. Sputtering even worse now, dieing at idle. I eave it for a teacher. Come back later, he tells me there's no oil. I was like WTF. I check it every week, and it was changed less that 4500km ago, so it was almost due. Got some oil in it and it ran much better for a few minutes. Idle was still pretty bad. Take it home, and it just gets worse and worse. When I'm accelerating, it just keeps missing and sputtering. I actually got it home, and it literally just died as I pull into my spot. I haven't tried starting it again, and I'm gonna check the oil again. I don't understand where the oil went. I'm sure it wasn't burning that bad that I wouldn't even notice it. Oil level never dropped while I checked it. |
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| deathwarden5 |
So, I just checked the oil. It's still full, none lost.
It started, but was still running like shit. I got a video. If you turn up the volume, you can hear the sputtering I'm talking about (sry, cell cam).
I gotta bring it back to school for him to take a better look at it, but I dont really know if I'll make it.
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| arabian_ryda |
| where did the oil go? if it didnt burn it it leaked out somewhere? did u check your coolant? |
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| deathwarden5 |
Like I said, I checked the oil every week, and it never dropped, so either it burned really fast in a very short amount of time, or it leaked out. I cant find any leaks and neither could the teacher.
What would the coolant have to do with this?
Fuel filter, wiring and distributor cap was were all changed within the last two years. Timing belt, belt tensioner bearing, water pump, cam seals were all changed in March. |
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| friedn00dles |
| this sounds alot similar to two of my previous vehicles. both of them had distrubutor issues, which needed the entire assembly replaced due to oil getting into it and screwing around with it causing my engine to sputter and shut off radomly on the road. it would be fine then just shut down and wouldnt be able to start until the engine cooled down. try checking that out |
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| SpeedwayRacing |
If the tac looks like its giving you incorrect readings then the problem is your ignition module in the distributor. Usually the car will run for 5 mins or so then when the chip overheats it starts to spudder and misfire. If you get on the gas it seems to make it run a little better but eventually it just gives up all together and you end up with nothing. Then you can't really run the car until it has time to cool. I had this issue a lot back when I had my hondata installed, I was going thew ICMs every 2 weeks or so. If you replace it and it works for a while then burns out and your running a stock ECU. Get your alternator checked. The part should be around $75 at partsource. Its good to get it there because they will replace it for free if you burn it out again. Its not hard to replace, you should only need a 12mm and a philips screwdriver.
As for the oil thing, its a Honda.. They go threw oil once they start to get old. |
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| deathwarden5 |
I just went through the previous owners records. I found this.
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| friedn00dles |
| looks like this problem hasnt been the first time to occur. i think you just bought yourself a big problem without knowing it. dont know what else to tell you but to redo everything that was had recently been done |
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| elrhyso |
| go to the junkyard and grab a different dizzy, it seems like that fixed it for the previous owner? my winter integra eats distributors too, its fucked. or check honda-tech and see if they have a better solution. |
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| deathwarden5 |
| I'm gonna try replacing the ignition module. $90 from Partsource. Dart and Napa want $230 for it though? Maybe because their's is OE replacement, and Partsource probably isn't? |
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| THUD |
Ya I start with the ignitor too goto karsmashers and grab one, I don't have any left here that are good I just looked.
After that if it still run's ruff your gonna have to pull the plugs and doa compression test and maybe fuel filter and things along that line.
I jsut saw that pic you had, my car does the same thing when it's hot out and if I have been driving it for a while it will quit and run like ass till it kools down, it's eather fuel boiling in the rail or vapor lock is or something I am still trying to figure that out, i may drop the tank and chack the line's. |
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| deathwarden5 |
Well...this is a fuckin mystery.
I was takin it home tonight (wouldn't dare try to bring it home in traffic this afternoon). Goin up Groat is dies, just cuts out. I let it sit a few, until it would start again. It starts, and it's almost like its running perfect again. Idle doesn't threaten to die on me, but it still flutters under load a bit, but not as bad. I get it home, and there's almost no fluttering or anything. When I get it home, I'm sitting in the driveway. I raise the RPM's to about 2k for a bit, then up to 5k for a few seconds. Now, the idle is perfect (maybe a bit low). It doesn't sputter, misfire or anything. When the engine is under load, is still has a little sputter here and there. It's almost like it corrected itself. I'm thinkin, maybe there was just something in the tank, or in the fuel lines.
Gonna see tomorrow how it runs. I'll still probably pull the plugs, and whatnot just to check it, and maybe bring it in for a tune-up. |
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| THUD |
Nothing just corrects it's self like that, there's something broken or not right, my car did the same dam thing and I replaced the coil, the ignitor,the purge canister the fuel filter I changed the throttle body the fuel rail, I unpluged every line I could and ran CO2 threw them to check for plugup's and I am only left with droping the tank and replacing the injectors.
If I drive it for an hour straight in hot weather it will be left on the side of hiway 2 and when it dies it does what yours is doing and run's like shit then clears up and is hard to start.
If you could borrow yourself a set of injectors toss them in I am gona have to check out some junk yards myself soon. |
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| deathwarden5 |
It started this morning fine. It still sputtered a little at idle. I drove it around for 20 minutes, and it was fine. Idle didn't do anything weird, and occasional misfire/sputter under load, but thats it. I brought it home and parked it, just as I'm sitting in my spot, the idle starts to fuck up again. I was stopped at lights, signs and crosswalks while I was driving it, and it didn't do anything. As soon as I stop it to park, it starts to screw around.
Is there any way to check the ICM if its bad before I go and replace it? I really hate to bring it to a shop, but I'm seeing no other choice at this point. |
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| elrhyso |
| it almost sounds like your fuel pump is going? |
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| arabian_ryda |
| did u recently wash your engine? |
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| deathwarden5 |
I was actually planning on washing it this weekend.
I'm booked into Wilson's on Tuesday for a diagnostic, so we'll see whats going on. |
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| THUD |
Here
For the DIY thing |
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| deathwarden5 |
Anybody know Napa's return policy on electrical items.
Partsource will only take it if its in unopened/uninstalled condition.
Or if anybody has a spare ICM they might sell me for cheaper. |
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| SpeedwayRacing |
| WTF, I took back my IMC 3 times with no problems what so ever.. I did know the guy though. |
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| deathwarden5 |
| Thats because there's something wrong with it. I was wondering, cause I wanted to try installing a new ICM to see if that was in case the issue, and if it didnt fix it, I wanted to return it. |
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| SpeedwayRacing |
| Well thud did post the instructions on how to test the one that is currently in your car.. without having to pick up another one. |
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| deathwarden5 |
| I'm gonna test it now. I was trying earlier, but had a broken tester, got one now. |
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| deathwarden5 |
I just tested it. The coil is within spec. I tested the ICM and there was proper voltage on every wire except the yel/grn wire. There was no voltage between the yel/grn and ground. Now what? (I'm no mechanic)
edit: there shouldn't be voltage on that wire (according to the service manual), should there? |
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| deathwarden5 |
Unbelievable.
I said earlier I was gonna pull the plugs and test em. I forgot, and now I just paid $160 for plugs.
Lucky for me (not), as I was going to Wilson's, my exhaust went to shit. The pipe rusted off right where the axle-back section starts, right at the flange. So now when I'm stopped the whole axle-back section rattles to hell. Anybody know where I could get the fixed up for less than $60. I cant really spend much more than that right now. The muffler and tail pipe are okay. Those are fairly new, but from axle to muffler and weld needs to be done. |
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| deathwarden5 |
| Would not having a muffler cause back-fire? I hope it's not starting again, but at idle, it's almost like it misfires every few seconds. I'm hoping it might just be back-fire. |
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| deathwarden5 |
| It's supposed to be fixed now. Apparently the root of all the problems: a hole smaller than a pin-hole in the ignition rotor causing it to arc. Couldn't even see it unless I held it up to a light at a certain angle. |
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| kevito_ |
quote:
Originally posted by deathwarden5
It's supposed to be fixed now. Apparently the root of all the problems: a hole smaller than a pin-hole in the ignition rotor causing it to arc. Couldn't even see it unless I held it up to a light at a certain angle.
That'll do it...
I had a tiny crack in my distributor and after washing my car in a sealed car wash, the car started to sputter and die randomly. It only fixed after I cleaned out the distributor rotor and replaced it with a new cap. I think steam got into it and condensed in the rotor. Sometimes it would work fine and sometimes it would sputter and die. |
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