| skunk2 intake vs. stock - Click HERE for Original Thread |
| T-LAV MRV |
has anyone ran/is running a skunk2 intake on a vtec/non-vtec on they're cars?
and if so what kind of improvements did it make over using the stock manifold? what kind of mods did ur veh have along with the manifold?.
end result is that i would like to know if it is worth the purchase or not.
mike |
|
|
| b18b.eg |
i've heard of skunk2 making gains, honestly though i dont think there that noticable, i would buy a blox imo cheaper and the same thing, thats if you decided to get a new intake manifold
maybe this might help dont know though, they dont talk in numbers
http://hondaswap.com/engine-buildin...e-manifo-35071/ |
|
|
| EK9Hatch |
I wouldn't recommend buying a higher flow aftermarket intake manifold unless you have a fully built motor. Larger IM does not improve power on a completely stock motor.
Jamie |
|
|
| Dan_Gyoba |
Well, intake and exhaust are generally the first steps, and though they might not make much in the way of gains by themselves, they do help make more power later on.
Really, a stock motor doesn't lose a lot of power to the intake. Maybe some do, but this is not generally the case. When you're starting to build up, one of the first steps is to open up the restrictions, particularly in the intake.
These mods themselves won't do much, but if you don't do them, then there's no point in doing the more extensive mods later. What's the point in a port and polish if the engine's still got to suck in the air through a straw? |
|
|
| T-LAV MRV |
true, and thats my reasoning, is build up a head(port, polish, bigger valves, cams, springs, singh grooves in the cc's) before i go and boost it.
just trying to get as much info as i can before i shell out the funds and keep myself from spending money in one area when it isn't needed.
mike |
|
|
| BRITAIN1.8 |
| Im assuming it's for the teggy. Maybe look into other B series manifolds tht are higher flow (b18c or b16) |
|
|
| Jayturbo |
it's been proven a few times that making great power on b series vtec is as simple as obd1 or obd2 b16a2 or b16a3 oem intake manifold etrude honed and port lightly port matched.
A lot of people running N/A swear by the OEM manifold.. as far as boost goes... I'm not so sure. But if you really want to get crazy send your stock IM out to get cut in half at the plenum, ported, then welded back up... it's pretty much the ultimate b series IM.
Skunk 2.. more like Gunk 2
Only thing they ever did right was pro 1 cams... |
|
|
| STiPWR |
quote:
Originally posted by EK9Hatch
I wouldn't recommend buying a higher flow aftermarket intake manifold unless you have a fully built motor. Larger IM does not improve power on a completely stock motor.
Jamie
Question answered right there. |
|
|
| T-LAV MRV |
thnx, all the responses definitely help.
mike |
|
|
| thomatt12 |
Yah they are right if you are gonna upgrade your Intake might as well upgrade your Headers and Exhaust to feel the real benefit of it. I-H-E as they say
__________________
Autopartswarehouse.com |
|
|
| doom26464 |
same as said above unless you have a built motor then slapping on a bigger mainfold will hurt ur performance. you will also need some sort of tunning to get the best benfit out of it if you decide to run one.
If your looking for more flow in and out of your motor go with a port and polish it will benfit you much more. |
|
|
| kevito_ |
For an NA motor, changing the manifold to something larger and ported makes a huge difference as the pressure difference (with-respect-to atmosphere) and non-turbulent air flow stability (speed of intake charge) is the only thing pulling air into the engine. You have to make sure that the manifold is actually the 'weakest link', ie: the piece of the system with the greatest restriction. I know for Honda's (and most small displacement motors), thats usually not the case. For NA you want higher flow rates to generate power by making the air travel in and out smoother...
There can be a problem with porting and polishing an intake manifold that wasn't meant to high performance though... at least for natural aspirated engines that are carbourated or that use 'fuel enriched' intakes (additional fuel injector in the intake). Under those conditions, some physical geometries of intakes (ones with large angular bends and different intake lengths) can actually cause air and fuel to separate before it reaches the cylinder, reducing the gains provided by the enrichment.
You can also have the same problem if the fuel injectors are located a decent distance from the intake valves. If they are far away, you can actually have the cylinder being fed with an air-fuel mixture that is richer on one side of the cylinder than on the other. This can lead to heat spots and inefficient combustion... reducing power.
The physics of such behaviour is quite complicated, but it has to do with different gas densities (enrichment fuel vapourizes on the way to the engine) travelling on different stable flow lines over regions of very smooth air flow (due to difference in fluid velocity caused by density and internal vapor pressure). The cylinders closest to the inlet will receive much more fuel than those far away. Each cylinder itself will be richer on a certain internal side that corresponds to the line of smoothest air flow entering it.
For boosted cars, the charger is feeding the engine. It's not relying on atmospheric pressure alone. You're not trying to get the smoothest flow, rather the maximum amount of forced flow (boost). A properly matched turbo (boost levels match engine flow rates) will spin up quickly and will feed the intake more than it needs at lower rpm, leading to ideal maximum matched flow at redline. That's why you have a wastegate.
If you want to make power, you'll have to enlarge the intake manifold, but it takes a lot more tuning and modifications for limitations to come from the intake for turbo applications over NA applications.
I know it seems kind of extreme, but if your planning on getting every last drop out of an engine, there is so much to design/plan for... |
|
|
|
|
|
