| Toyota soarer 1jzgte help!!! - Click HERE for Original Thread |
| hontuner |
| Kay, so the other day my soarer started to act up. When I have it to the floor, it seems to lag. Sometimes hard, and sometimes only a little bit. You can feel the boost kick in and then its like it lags a bit then kicks in again while still holding pressure in the same gear through every gear. And it is also spuddering from a stop to a start a bit. I was thinking fuel filter..... Anyone else have any suggestions? |
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| jzz30tt |
| Few questions, have you changed the plugs yet? do the coilpacks have any cracks? Is it only happening during a gear change or at any time. |
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| hontuner |
| I havnt changed anything yet. But it is doing it through the entire boost sprint of each gear but gets better at higher rpm's. And seems to be falling flat, spuddering when shifting into the next gear until it winds up again. |
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| jzz30tt |
yeah between gears that is a timing retard that is put there by toyota in the ecu coding to protect the tranny during changes.
i would say that you might be having a bit of missing going on and the coilpacks are a common cause of that. If there are any cracks in them you've likely found the culprit. Also for peace of mind change the plugs. |
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| hontuner |
| Okay well I will check it out, and is it easy to get plugs and new coil packs? Where should I go? |
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| Godzilla |
you have a boost guage? is it keeping the same boost as before. to me it seems like a boost leak, check the intercooler piping first.
and definitly get on the maintenance items you should have done when you purchased the car, (new spark plugs, fuel filter, oil change, trans fluid change, diff fluid change, coolant flush etc.) |
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| hontuner |
| No boost gauge, and no intercooler. Possibly, but would boost kick in and put randomly throughout the power band? And why would it spudder when it starts out? |
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| anschutz_93 |
quote:
Originally posted by hontuner
No boost gauge, and no intercooler. Possibly, but would boost kick in and put randomly throughout the power band? And why would it spudder when it starts out?
... your car has an intercooler, follow the pipes.
I would start with a boost gauge (a must for a turbo car anyways), plugs, wires, coil pack. Basically like everyone else said do basic maintenance.
If its falling completely on its face its probably a boost leak, pressure test your intake. |
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| hontuner |
| okay maybe it does, i took a quick look and didn't see anything but the same sized piping all the way through but maybe i'm blind. well before i get a boost gauge, i will replace the coil packs and spark plugs and see where im at. i just tried it again and it's only when i'm full boost with the throttle wide open...... boost builds, i can hear and feel it, but the it's like it looses pressure and the regains pressure a few times and then it pulls hard. and then the same thing for the next gear after that. BOV is still dumping, and boost doesn't sound any different when it's lagging |
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| doom26464 |
| 95% sure its a boost leak. its peaking then dropping by the sounds of it. pressures the pipes but then leakes out a crack somewhere thus going down. other guess that Im going to go with Is the throttle body is stuck or the cable isn't opening it properly(doubt its that but it has happened to me before and I had the exact same symptoms.) |
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| XtraX |
hontuner, the stock intercooler is infront of the drivers side wheel. It does sound like a boost leak, I had a similar experience with mine.
What side of town are you on? |
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| hontuner |
| Ya that's probly the best explanation for what's going on, I live in stony plain, but I'm usually in edmonton more than home. |
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| jzz30tt |
what he's feeling is missing under boost. I have felt the exact same thing in the exact same car and the 16 year old coilpacks are commonly the issue with the soarer. That's not the way a boost leak is going to act or feel like.
When this is happening Hon tuner does it almost feel like tiny litttle momentary losses in power? Almost as if you were hitting tiny little water puddles minus the loss of traction?
New coilpack aren't cheap but may be neccessary but please just change the plugs first. Takes about 20 minutes max and costs about 20 bucks for the 6 NGK BKR6E's that you'll need gapped between 0.7 and 0.8 mm.
Checking for boost leaks isn't a bad idea but i don't think that a boost leak is what's going on. On the soarer you likely will have some sort of small boost leak but that stacatto loss of power is most likely missing under boost.
To check the coilpacks just remove the spark plug cover and then the coilpacks will come out in sets of 2. You can take them out individually as well but this only makes breaking them more likely. After you have them out inpect the black plastic of the coil pack closely for any sort of cracking or fatigue, if there are any cracks you've likely found your issue. As a minimum please replace the plugs. |
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| hontuner |
| Ya jzz that is exactly what it feels like. And the boost leak wouldn't explain it spuddering from stop to start. But at the same time, as I go through gears, the revs are consistant but its like I am driving through puddles like you said, like the boost is cutting in and out. But the boost gets higher at a higher rpm. But it lags when it starts to spool up, if that makes sense |
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| hontuner |
| I dunno, its hard to explain in words. I'm going to go get new plugs right now and see if that helps and then check the coil packs, as well as check for leaks anywhere in the turbo piping. It would be easier if someone with more knowledge of the car than me could take a look at it. |
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| jzz30tt |
for sure do the plugs and since you have the coilpacks out already for the plugs take a good close look at them while you're at it.
make sure you don't get the bkr6e-11 as they will be gapped to 1.1 mm instead of the 0.75-0.8 that you want.
just buy the coppers to begin with as plugs are something you should do anyways. |
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| hontuner |
| Okay, ya I just went to buy some and they tried to sell me the 11's in platinum at 20 bucks a pop at speedtech. |
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| jzz30tt |
| What a surprise. Don't use platinums with a turbo'd car, use coppers or iridiums, for now just go to NAPA and ask for NGK BKR6E's should be maybe 3-3.50 per plug or so. |
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| XtraX |
their other part number for these is 6097.
Saves them looking them up for you. |
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| hontuner |
| Okay sounds good, and then I will install them and let you know how the old ones looked and how the car runs after. |
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| jzz30tt |
| perfect. Remember to inspect the coil packs while you have them out to change the plugs and be careful with them while removing. They are fairly pricey so you don't want to wreck any by accident. |
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| hontuner |
| Okay will do. Thanks guys. |
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| v8less |
quote:
Originally posted by jzz30tt
What a surprise. Don't use platinums with a turbo'd car, use coppers or iridiums, for now just go to NAPA and ask for NGK BKR6E's should be maybe 3-3.50 per plug or so.
why not platinums? what happens? |
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| hontuner |
| Ya I'm kinda curious. They told me if I'm boosted and if I was going to be upping the boost to run platinum spark plugs |
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| jzz30tt |
There have been a lot of issues with the electrodes breaking off. This is by no means a blanket statement and is just my opinion but i know that iridium and copper are safe for my use and platinum has a question mark. I just would never recommend someone do something that i wouldn't do myself.
Platinums are usually used for long life in stock applications, Iridium is used in more severe situation but also meant for long life. Coppers can be used in just about any situation but obviously a lot shorter life span. |
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| hontuner |
| That makes sense, so basically its your personal preference |
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| jzz30tt |
| personal preference based on a bit of common sense more or less. |
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| XtraX |
| fyi this month's issue of DSPORT has a great write up on spark plugs. |
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| SUPRAMAN |
copper is better for the heat, but they don't last as long & they are cheap to replace. 6097 FTW.
Also why would u go to Speed-Tech for plugs, they more likely buy them from NAPA anyway.
Good luck with ur car. Buy a dozen or more so u don't have to go back & ford to NAPA. Also napa is Spruce Grove has the plugs u need, that's where I got mine. |
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| SUPRAMAN |
quote:
Originally posted by hontuner
That makes sense, so basically its your personal preference
Most of the BPU supra guys go with the 6097 & even the APU guys use them (just with a smaller gap). |
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| hontuner |
| Alright thanks guys. And by the way, this months performance auto and sound there is a lexus sc300! (soarer) |
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| hontuner |
| alrighty so here's the scoop. I tore the engine down and replaced the water pump because it was leaking, and while i was in there I saw the timing belt was cracked so i replaced that and the alternator belt aswell. I am replacing the plugs this week, and i found a small crack in one of the coil packs (thanks for the suggestion, you were right) i checked all boost tubing and not leaks or cracks that i could see. |
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| 10secdream |
| To fix the coilpacks just use epoxy or 1inch shrink wrap. |
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| hontuner |
| alright thanks man |
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| jzz30tt |
| another commonly used thing is actually clear nail polish. Sounds strange but it works |
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| hontuner |
| Really? that is pretty strange |
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| hontuner |
| Okay so here is how everything went. I replaced my water pump, and when I was in there I saw the timing belt was cracked to shit so I ordered that and a new alternator belt aswell. So a week later, I got everything back together. I replaced the plugs with the ngk ones that were recommended, and all of the coil packs were cracked to I sealed them with glue only on the cracks. Gapped the plugs to .8mm. Out everything back together, threw coolant back in it. Fired it up and now its spuddering a bit and doesn't have as much power, but the lagging is gone. Wtf!!! |
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| 10secdream |
How so is it sputtering? Is it breaking up at high boost or does it just lack power?
Try checking for codes first and check for boost leaks. |
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| hontuner |
| I checked for boost leaks, and nothing. Its spuddering like crazy, and barely any power at all. You rev it up or step on it at all and it loses power and starts spuddering. The only thing I can think of is lack of fuel or plugs which I just replaced or the coils which I just sealed. Its spuddering when your idling forward in gear as soon as you touch the gas. And it randomly spudders a bit when its sitting idling. Help!!! |
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| 10secdream |
| Definitely check for ecu codes first. |
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| hontuner |
| I would but I don't have an obd 1 scan tool. We are going to replace the plugs because they are really cheap ngk plugs, I will run the iridiums and see what happens. And just to confirm, .8mm gap? |
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| hontuner |
| Thanks, ill try it out and then ill let you know. |
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| hontuner |
| Okay so no thrown codes, pulled the plugs and they look fine, I gapped them larger and it seemed to help a bit. So here is where the car stands, its chugging when at idle, and it spudders up to boost and then its good all through boost. No boost leaks, coils are sealed, plugs are good, but may not be the right plugs I am told. (ngk bk6re). So frustrated I don't even know what to do now. Suggestions? |
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| XtraX |
| Are you at home? or in town? |
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| hontuner |
quote:
Originally posted by XtraX
Are you at home? or in town?
In stony right now, and on my way into the city right away. Why? |
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| 10secdream |
| It could be possible that your timing belt is off a tooth. You have checked everything ignition related so it must be the timing. You just did the timing belt and the problems started so you might have to take it apart. |
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| hontuner |
quote:
Originally posted by 10secdream
It could be possible that your timing belt is off a tooth. You have checked everything ignition related so it must be the timing. You just did the timing belt and the problems started so you might have to take it apart.
Thats exactly what i was thinking, but i stripped it back down last night and checked. The cams were lined up exactly perfect with the dampner.
And I might possibly know what the problem is,...... anyone here who knows soarers, do you set the dampner at 10 or 0 when lining up with cams??????????? Let me know ASAP! thanks |
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| 10secdream |
| Make sure cylinder 1 is at TDC and then align the timing mark to 0. Check the cam gears to make sure the mark is completely vertical. Then your timing is set. |
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| hontuner |
quote:
Originally posted by 10secdream
Make sure cylinder 1 is at TDC and then align the timing mark to 0. Check the cam gears to make sure the mark is completely vertical. Then your timing is set.
Okay, thats exactly what i did. so it can't be that. i'm putting in NGK BRK7E's (gapped to .8mm) to see if that helps at all. today i drove it and it randomly starting working perfect (still chugging at idle though) for like 2 mins then started again. If the plugs don't solve the problem then i guess a coil is fucked somehow. but it came into the shop running fine, and now its chugging, so it's definetly something that was done when it was in for work...... timing is dead on, plugs are good (running a little lean), coil packs look fine and are completely sealed. what else could it be?
:dunno: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :dunno: |
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| 10secdream |
| Stupid question but what gas are you running? Also maybe you got a bad batch of gas as well. |
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| hontuner |
quote:
Originally posted by 10secdream
Stupid question but what gas are you running? Also maybe you got a bad batch of gas as well.
Im running fresh premium with octane boost |
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| RADRIDE |
quote:
Originally posted by hontuner
Okay, thats exactly what i did. so it can't be that. i'm putting in NGK BRK7E's (gapped to .8mm) to see if that helps at all. today i drove it and it randomly starting working perfect (still chugging at idle though) for like 2 mins then started again. If the plugs don't solve the problem then i guess a coil is fucked somehow. but it came into the shop running fine, and now its chugging, so it's definetly something that was done when it was in for work...... timing is dead on, plugs are good (running a little lean), coil packs look fine and are completely sealed. what else could it be?
:dunno: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :dunno:
Why are you regapping the plugs? They come stock out of the box at .30. Unless you have a lot of power (like my supra which I gap the plug at .22-.24) they should be fine. Its most likely a coil pack. Just buy some good used ones or new ones if you have the money.
On a side note did you plug your map/maf sensor back in after you did all of this work?
R.K. |
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| hontuner |
quote:
Originally posted by RADRIDE
Why are you regapping the plugs? They come stock out of the box at .30. Unless you have a lot of power (like my supra which I gap the plug at .22-.24) they should be fine. Its most likely a coil pack. Just buy some good used ones or new ones if you have the money.
On a side note did you plug your map/maf sensor back in after you did all of this work?
R.K.
Ya but alot of them come with different gap sizes from factory, i checked with the gapper and all brand new had different gap sizes. I have no idea where to get coil packs that dont cost a million dollars for one, and how would i know if or which coil pack it is?
And this probly sounds really stupid, but i'm really sure i didn't unplug the map/maf in the first place. So unless i had to in order to do all of this, and i did and didn't notice..... correct me if i'm wrong. |
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| hontuner |
| Changed the plugs, helped a little bit. When I pulled the plug from number 3 cylinder and the plug was wet. So I am thinking that the coil pack for that cylinder is half ass working, so I need to find a coil pack |
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| XtraX |
quote:
Originally posted by hontuner
Okay, thats exactly what i did. so it can't be that. i'm putting in NGK BRK7E's (gapped to .8mm) to see if that helps at all. today i drove it and it randomly starting working perfect (still chugging at idle though) for like 2 mins then started again. If the plugs don't solve the problem then i guess a coil is fucked somehow. but it came into the shop running fine, and now its chugging, so it's definetly something that was done when it was in for work...... timing is dead on, plugs are good (running a little lean) coil packs look fine and are completely sealed. what else could it be?
:dunno: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :dunno:
How do you know it's running lean? Soarers tend to be Pig Rich. |
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| hontuner |
quote:
Originally posted by XtraX
How do you know it's running lean? Soarers tend to be Pig Rich.
I looked at the plugs.....lol |
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| v8less |
sounds like you isc is stuck open and letting in too much air. Leaning out and bad idle....... OR Vacuum/boost leak on the manifold since you already checked the boost pipes.
theres a pipe that goes around the back of the head to the isc valve. remove it from the isc and block it with tape. Then try pining your own hole to control your idle for testing purpuses.
If you can get you engine to idle smooth, clean out the ics valve with brake cleaner, then test and reinstall.
I cleaned mine out and cleared right up. But then i went standalone and have blocked it completely since. |
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| hontuner |
| Thanks for the advise! |
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| hontuner |
| Okay so here is where I'm at. I'm frustrated out of my mind and ready to jump off a cliff..... I installed the new coil pack, and it didn't help. I checked all vacuum lines, they are fine. There was a boost leak which I fixed. I cleaned the PVC. Tested each coil, the same coil that I changed still has no spark. I peeled back the wire casing and no splits..... Help me!!!!!!! |
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| T-LAV MRV |
check for voltage, and resistance, and make sure u are gettin voltage to the connections.
haven't worked on yota's jz's so i am just giving u general stuff.
mike |
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| hontuner |
| Okay so I tested the new coil and its good. I wiggled the wires to the coil while it was running and the spark stopped and then started randomly, so its gotta be a wire problem. Swapping wires now. |
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| T-LAV MRV |
make sure the pinouts in the connections are good too.
did u wiggle the wires where they go right into the coil?, or along the length of wire itself?.
mike |
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| hontuner |
| I replaced the wires as far as possible, it has spark now but very weak spark. Still spuddering |
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| hontuner |
| Anyone here that could take a look at it for me and tell me what the hell if going on here? Please! |
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| T-LAV MRV |
where u live?
mike |
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| 10secdream |
| What are the condition of your spark plugs? |
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| hontuner |
quote:
Originally posted by 10secdream
What are the condition of your spark plugs?
Brand new! Found out the coil wires are badly corroded inside the casing. Hope that's the problem! |
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| 10secdream |
| Well fix the wires and let us know how it runs. |
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| hontuner |
| Okay so the mechanical mystery has been solved!!! I cut back the wire casing on the coil pack wires and they were green they were so corroded. I cut them all off and replaced them and the car runs amazingly mint. Sooooo much more power now, no spuddering at all, idles perfect. Thanks for all the help everyone, I really appreciate it!!! |
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| AudiInProgress |
quote:
Originally posted by hontuner
Okay so the mechanical mystery has been solved!!! I cut back the wire casing on the coil pack wires and they were green they were so corroded. I cut them all off and replaced them and the car runs amazingly mint. Sooooo much more power now, no spuddering at all, idles perfect. Thanks for all the help everyone, I really appreciate it!!!
Congrats. |
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