| K20A3 Help - Click HERE for Original Thread |
| Odey |
I was driving down highway 21 coming off the exit ramp when i went to accelerate and the car hit boost and completley lost all power and the rpms shot down to 0 and the car turned off. Now the car wont fire, but it will try to turn over. When i try to start the car the oil pressure stays at 0. There are no leaks and the oil level is fine as i just got it changed under 1000kms ago.
Could it be that i put 5W20 in it with a filter from lube-x and the car didnt get enough oil and the car went into safety mode so no damage would be done?
Not really good with mechanics of cars or tuning and all that stuff so im not familiar with it. So im just trying to figure out the easiest and cheapest way to get the car fixed. If anybody has any suggestions or information i would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks, |
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| 2ndgenlude |
| my car did the same thing. wastegate line wiggled its way off and i overboosted. blew out the ring lands. do a compression test to make sure everything inside is good. |
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| Odey |
| so whats causing it not to fire anymore but only to turn over...? |
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| 2ndgenlude |
| no compression was my problem. |
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| Odey |
so how much was your problem to get fixed?
also i had this happen the day after i put 5W20 into the car....the engine cap said 5W20....but looks like i should have put 10W30 in it. except when it happened i pulled over and the car started right back up....havent had a problem in two weeks until yesterday. maybe the crappy filter they put in is clogged...? |
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| 2ndgenlude |
| my problem required a new engine lol. yours sounds less severe though. as for the oil, i have no idea if that would have did anything. |
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| Odey |
| god im hoping i dont need a new engine. i just hope i just need to flash the ecu and change the oil. |
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| Odey |
| so what do you guys suggest i do? |
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| tegpowered |
| oil is probally not your problem. check for spark, fuel and compression. |
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| Odey |
| i guess ill have to wait till i get time to run k-pro and see what it turns up. |
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| kornsined |
Kpro does not tell you anything unless it's running.:(
I've run that weight of oil in the car and it was fine, just not recommended during summer months with a turbo car. If your oil light comes on you should always check your oil pressure gauge immediately to see if you lost pressure especially after an oil change. Something could be loose and you running low or losing oil. |
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| Odey |
| oil levels and pressure was fine till this happened....now the pressure wont even go up one little bit when i try to start the car. im gonna try putting 10W30 and a higher end filter in it tomorrow and see if it helps. |
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| kornsined |
quote:
Originally posted by tegpowered
oil is probally not your problem. check for spark, fuel and compression.
I'd do the same. Check for leaks then plugs. When you drain the oil check for anything suspicious in the oil. Fuel pump may have shit the bed too and you are getting no fuel to the engine. Lastly compression check if all else fails.
I'm starting to think it's the fuel pump. It's still the stock one and maybe the 750 injectors finally killed it. |
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| Odey |
| well we are gonna change the oil, check the spark plugs, take the valve cover off to see if any oil is flowing. whats the best way to check if a fuel pump is still working? also could it be the fuel pump relay that may have shit the bed? |
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| zhao |
could just be a vac line. had that happen to me in a FD once, oil pressure to 0, car wouldn't start. turns out it was just a vac line i blew off; reattached line, reset the ecu, started up.
although not knowing ur setup, and the fact its a honda, it sounds more serious then taht |
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| Odey |
| yeah and this is just after i negotiated i trade for a 89 gtr. really hoping i can fix this thing fast so i can get arid of it. i guess i just gotta start eliminating all of the options until i find out whats wrong with it. cause by the sounds of it, it could be a bunch of different things.....from a clogged oil filter to busted tension lines. |
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| 2ndgenlude |
| is it cranking over really easy? if so compression is probably gone. any smoke come from anything when it died? |
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| Odey |
| its cranking over like usual. no smoke when it died. the same thing happened to me the day after i got my oil changed to 5W20, except the car started up as soon as i pulled over again....which is why this is weird. it makes me think its something minor...but i know its gonna be major cause i got shit luck. |
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| 2ndgenlude |
| i want to say fuel pump now too. if you listen carefully when you turn the key to the on position you should hear it prime. slight buzzing noise for a second or 2 coming from the tank. |
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| Odey |
| ok. so if it is the fuel pump how much would that to replace? |
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| Odey |
| replaced the fuel pump and fuel pump relay....and it did not fix the problem. there is no buzzing sound still either. so i dunno where to go from here. suggestions?:dunno: |
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| sparkycivic |
stick yer nose in the muffler... smells like gas? you got no spark. take an old spark plug and hook it up to one of the wires, then put it against some metal, and crank the car... should be lots of spark like that.
tell us how that test goes... |
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| Odey |
| inside the muffler does not smell like gas....but i will be testing the spark plugs regardless. but still doesnt answer the question of why the fuel pump does not run, because it does have power running to it. if there is spark then whats the next step? guess ill have to take it to a shop and spend fortunes just to figure out whats wrong nevermind getting it fixed. |
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| kornsined |
You should hear the pump kick on. Remove the rear seat cushion. The pump is right there and you can hear it easily. There has to be a reason why it won't come on.
Quick suggestion, on the calibration turn off the immobolizer and try to start it. I've heard of them crapping out. Would explain no fuel. |
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| Kenshin |
| check for ground at the fuel pump too. its poss. your fuel management mightve craped out |
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| Odey |
quote:
Originally posted by kornsined
You should hear the pump kick on. Remove the rear seat cushion. The pump is right there and you can hear it easily. There has to be a reason why it won't come on.
Quick suggestion, on the calibration turn off the immobolizer and try to start it. I've heard of them crapping out. Would explain no fuel.
We replaced the fuel pump today and same with the fuel pump relay. Still no buzzing coming from back there. So i guess we will turn the immobilizer off and see if it starts up.
So with the immoblizer on will that cause no fuel and oil to flow? Just trying to figure out why the fuel pump is not priming up and why there is no oil pressure. |
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| 2ndgenlude |
| turn the key to the on position and slowly loosen the fuel line to the fuel rail, or fuel filter. if fuel squirts out your pump is working and you have fuel obviously. just be ready to tighten it back up lol. |
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| Odey |
well there shouldnt be anything wrong will the pump, because we just replaced it this morning.
i think its either something will the K-Pro or something wrong with the oil pump.....
i guess we will see what happens if we can get it out of the immobilizer mode if its even in it. |
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| kevito_ |
What do I know, but I'll put in my two cents ;)
I'm thinking its something electronic... something small and annoying fucking it up.
Good luck isolating the problem. If you had low compression in a cylinder or two, the engine should still start - although it would run rough and probably not idle.
You checked spark, fuel, air?
Pulled the plugs one by one and checked for spark to the valve cover (or anything else grounded in the car)?
Opened the fuel rail relief valve to see if it's pressurized? Better yet, connect a pressure sensor to the relief valve, turn on the car and check the fuel pressure.
Checked your air intake? Big piece of road garbage not blocking your filter, intake manifold or throttle body?
If those aren't the problem, then start checking sensors for shorts and any other electronic addons that could possibly stop the motor from igniting the gas mixture.
Make sure your O2 sensors, mass airflow sensor, and other emissions-related parts are within electrical and mechanical tolerance and with proper connections. Check all your electronic addons for shorts or electronic components that are out of specification. Also check your fuses with a multimeter (with a test load), as just visual inspection sometimes isn't enough.
It really seems like something electronic is 'disabling' the ignition. |
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| Odey |
right on.
we will be checking all that stuff again today....im hoping the car is just in a disable mode.....now we just gotta figure out why. |
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| 2ndgenlude |
| do a quick check over all your fuses too. never know.. |
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| Odey |
well i replaced the fuel pump relay....what else could cause the fuel pump not to prime? is there another fuse somewhere that needs to be checked?
we are gonna check the spark plugs to see if its sparking at least....but still doesnt explain why the fuel pump does not prime when i try to turn it over. And id rather not take it to a mechanic cause they charge out the ass just to look at it. Stressfull part is not knowing what is wrong with it....i would like to at least narrow it down so if i have to take to a mechanic he has somewhere to start insetad of me ending up with a 2 grand bill and not even having the problem fixed yet. |
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| 2ndgenlude |
| just crack the relief valve on the rail. if fuel spits out your pump is working fine. easy check. stock pumps can be quiet. or are you running a aftermarket pump? my walbro is quite a bit louder then stock when it primes. |
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| Odey |
| i just bought a stock one....the old one was for a 1.7L and the new one is for a 2.0L. so stock...but upgraded from the last one. we would hear it cause my buddy had his ear right over top of it when i tried to turn the car over. my buddy is going to check over everything that has been suggested, and if we cant figure it out, i guess its off to the mechanic..... |
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| STiPWR |
Jesus, 3 pages and we havnt gone over the basics.....
Pressurize your intake system and listen for leaks.
Take off your negative battery terminal and hold your foot on the brake for 30 seconds... reconnect.
Remove your plugs, let the car sit to evaporate any unburned fuel.
Grab a compression tester from crappy tire and do a compression test on your cylinders. If your compression is good, check for spark.
If you have good compression, and spark, then pull off a fuel line and turn your ignition on, see if you have fuel, then buy a fuel pressure gauge and test to ensure you have an ample amount of pressure.
Thats where you start. Quit spending money on new parts untill you try the above. Tell us the results and we'll be able to tell you what to do from there.
My guess is you have a vac issue. |
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| 2ndgenlude |
| 1st thing i told him to do was a compression test. as for a vac leak that wouldn't keep it from starting. it would just idle like shit. as for a ecu reset it would be worth a shot. ecu could have had a hiccup. |
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| STiPWR |
quote:
Originally posted by 2ndgenlude
1st thing i told him to do was a compression test. as for a vac leak that wouldn't keep it from starting. it would just idle like shit. as for a ecu reset it would be worth a shot. ecu could have had a hiccup.
If you have 0 vaccum your car will not start.
I seen your post and edited mine. |
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| Odey |
quote:
Originally posted by STiPWR
Jesus, 3 pages and we havnt gone over the basics.....
Pressurize your intake system and listen for leaks.
Take off your negative battery terminal and hold your foot on the brake for 30 seconds... reconnect.
Remove your plugs, let the car sit to evaporate any unburned fuel.
Grab a compression tester from crappy tire and do a compression test on your cylinders. If your compression is good, check for spark.
If you have good compression, and spark, then pull off a fuel line and turn your ignition on, see if you have fuel, then buy a fuel pressure gauge and test to ensure you have an ample amount of pressure.
Thats where you start. Quit spending money on new parts untill you try the above. Tell us the results and we'll be able to tell you what to do from there.
My guess is you have a vac issue.
Will do. i knew it was only a matter of time you posted something. i hope its just something simple. Although not to sure on how serious a vacum issue is.
How much is a compression tester anyways? |
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| STiPWR |
quote:
Originally posted by Odey
Will do. i knew it was only a matter of time you posted something. i hope its just something simple. Although not to sure on how serious a vacum issue is.
How much is a compression tester anyways?
It is impossible to guess what is wrong without seeing the car, but it was a guess none the less.
Still go through the steps, I think a compression tester is like 20-30 bucks at Crappy tire. |
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| Odey |
quote:
Originally posted by STiPWR
It is impossible to guess what is wrong without seeing the car, but it was a guess none the less.
Still go through the steps, I think a compression tester is like 20-30 bucks at Crappy tire.
Well i guess ill start with that. I wish you posted ealier so i didnt go buy a new fuel pump.
So why would a vacum issue to the engine not allow the fuel pump to prime? |
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| Odey |
Would a vacum issue cause the fuel pump to not prime?
Also is it possible that when i was driving, the fuel pump shit the bed and the ecu put the car into the "imobilelizer" mode and its causing the fuel pump not to work..... |
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| platnum accord |
| I did the install of the new fuel pump and we tried to test it in meny ways and it will not even get any voltage from the car. the float reads just find and works 100% but the fuel pump will not even turn. |
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| STiPWR |
quote:
Originally posted by Odey
Would a vacum issue cause the fuel pump to not prime?
Also is it possible that when i was driving, the fuel pump shit the bed and the ecu put the car into the "imobilelizer" mode and its causing the fuel pump not to work.....
No the vaccuum has nothing to do with the fuel pump. I was talking about a completey different possibility.
Reset the ECU when you are going the things I suggested above. |
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| Odey |
quote:
Originally posted by STiPWR
No the vaccuum has nothing to do with the fuel pump. I was talking about a completey different possibility.
Reset the ECU when you are going the things I suggested above.
Alright, hes going over right now to reset the ECU and then do the things you listed above. I guess ill give you guys the update on what happens and you can give me your oppinions on what to do next. |
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| platnum accord |
| i cant reset the ecu i cant even get into it. security is off and i have used 2 different laptops with 2 different OS's. still nothing has worked. |
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| 2ndgenlude |
| just unhook the neg terminal on the battery for 30 seconds. that resets it. |
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| kornsined |
Does Kmanager say "ignition on" when you turn the key to the on position? Did you try re-uploading the calibration? What did it do?
If it doesn't say "ignition on" then there's no communication between your laptop and the ecu. Try a different usb cable.
If the kpro is still not working, Hondata charges $100 to check it over. I sent it to them when the fuel pump relay shit the bed. They said it was fine. Before doing that take the ecu cover off and do a visual inspection to see if there's any damage. |
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| Odey |
| well i guess we will try a different cable as it does still say ignition off. |
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| platnum accord |
| the diff cables was a failure. |
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| Odey |
| yeah the new cable was an epic fail. still reads ignition off. i guess the next step is to try another k-pro in my car and see if it works then.....before i send mine out....just in case its not the k-pro that is the problem. |
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| mattEG |
| Have you done the compression test yet? Have you checked for missing vacuum lines, etc? Have you even bothered doing anything other than attempt to mess with the kpro? Have you tested for spark? |
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| STiPWR |
quote:
Originally posted by mattEG
Have you done the compression test yet? Have you checked for missing vacuum lines, etc? Have you even bothered doing anything other than attempt to mess with the kpro? Have you tested for spark?
Hence why I stopped posting in this thread. |
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| Graphicdude |
quote:
Originally posted by Odey
yeah the new cable was an epic fail. still reads ignition off. i guess the next step is to try another k-pro in my car and see if it works then.....before i send mine out....just in case its not the k-pro that is the problem.
So if you are not listening to the suggestions given to you then why post anymore? |
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| Odey |
| maybe its because i havent been able to get to doing all the tests...i never once said i wasnt going to do them now did i? im not rejecting any help...its hard to find time when your working 14 hours a day. if we cant get acess the K-Pro them obviously there is a problem with it. The fuel pump, the vacum issue, the oil pressure wouldnt prevent the ECU from working....its the other way around. Hence why we are putting more time towards the ECU. If the ECU is faulty it doesnt matter what we do the car wont run cause it wont tell the car to spark, or pump oil or pump fuel. At least this is what i got from the conversation with a shop in calgary. |
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| mattEG |
| Correct me if I'm wrong but the oil pump is mechanical dude, the ECU has nothing to do with that. If it cranks it should make oil pressure. |
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| Odey |
| so explain why the fuel pump doesnt work and why i cant access the ECU? |
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| platnum accord |
| does anyone fallowing this thread have a k-pro in their car to let odey test his or borrow yours for testing? |
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| kornsined |
I'm extremely busy so don't be offended if I don't answer my phone.
Next step with the ECU is to check the harness connections aren't loose and/or take the cover off and inspect it visually. Also check the fuse for the ECU (check all fuses in the fusebox actually).
Get another Kpro to test out the car with or ship it off to hondata.
Before doing anything drastic, do what already has been suggested (compression, etc).
BTW, Hondata forum. |
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| Odey |
| well we are going to do what was suggested. just havent had the time yet. we started with the little things that we could do without having to go out and get some tools. |
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