| JoshP2002 |
Hey,
I notices Charles_00Civic's thread on battery relocation, but there was a lot of grief about it passing an inspection for the autocross which is why Im starting this one, as well as Charles' thread didnt quite answer a couple other questions.
I have 0G running to the back currently. If I move the battery back there, will I need another run of 0G for negative for a direct hook up to the old negative, or can I ground the battery in the back to the chassis as well as the old ground up front?
Where can I get a proper battery securing kit?
Thanks,
Josh |
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| catlin987987 |
I've done this before
I ran a 0 also but its overkill
I grounded to the frame, instead of running it back
I used a boat battery holder(Vented) and had some heavy bolts to secure it. |
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| JoshP2002 |
Awesome, thanks for the reply. What was your voltage like up front with it like that? And where did you get that battery holder?
Thanks,
Josh |
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| catlin987987 |
| I am not sure about the voltage, it never failed me except when the ground was loose, you can pick up the battery holder at Canadian tire |
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| JoshP2002 |
Awesome, thank you very much, Id be tempted to go right now if they werent closed.
Just one other thing that I thought of, how did you splice through under the hood? Did you just take off the original battery crimp, and solder it all on? |
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| blue_monkey_man |
| I would recommend that you just ground the battery close by and run a 140amp or 200amp circuit breaker depending on your toys near the battery on the positive side. |
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| JoshP2002 |
How do you mean? Im grounding the battery on the rear chasis, and the front up on the front chasis. The positive is 0G, and I'll fuse it in the trunk and up front just for the heck of it.
Im just trying to figure out how I'll attach that 0G positive wire to the old positive ring up front. |
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| Ayeso |
quote:
Originally posted by JoshP2002
How do you mean? Im grounding the battery on the rear chasis, and the front up on the front chasis. The positive is 0G, and I'll fuse it in the trunk and up front just for the heck of it.
Im just trying to figure out how I'll attach that 0G positive wire to the old positive ring up front.
Leave the original positive there, get a distribution block, hook it up call it a day.
I'd use a breaker switch in the rear
Make SURE you get a proper box. it CANNOT be plastic unless its the moroso one it has to be aluminum, and if you plan to race most places need a kill switch on the outside of the car as well clearly marked ON and OFF |
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| JoshP2002 |
| Ooh okay, gotcha. That actually makes a lot of sense, thanks. |
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| catlin987987 |
| why not plastic? as long as you get the right type |
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| Driven |
| Also mount it on the opposite side of the driver as it aids with weight distribution. |
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| catlin987987 |
| it would depend on the car wouldn't it? |
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| Ayeso |
quote:
Originally posted by catlin987987
why not plastic? as long as you get the right type
You dont use plastic because its not legal for certaining sanctioning bodies unless you have a bulkhead that seperates the battery from the driver. Such as NHRA, Im not sure about others such as SCCA.
quote:
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited.
Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment.
This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
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