| Beagles |
Due to an annoying turn of events, I will no longer be able to pursue the dream of a loving H22 in the prelude this summer. Therefore I plan on going with a new approach, one that will be relatively cheap (in comparison to the H22) and provide stable fun and excitement!
As u may or may not have assumed already, I'm going to be looking into a basic turbo setup so that I can run around 6-7psi with mostly stock internals.
The setup will include:
-A T-25 Turbo
-Short Tubular Manifold for T-25/Inter cooler... I was told that Michael from LSDMotosports can do this for around $340 manifold only.
-Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
-Blow off valve. (Not sure which one... im assuming it really doesnt matter a whole lot)
-A custom downpipe.. but if im going to need one of those I might as well get a turbo exhaust system?
-Oil feed + return lines
-Mini Boost guage. (I presume OIL and AIR/Fuel pressure to accompany it right?)
-Silicone couplers (No idea what those are but I guess I need em)
-450cc injectors (So im not over pushing the stock limits.)
Oh and Im gonna need to get a new ecu and have it chipped with chrome. As well, do to the FRM sleeves in the B21A1 Block, im going to need to go on a quest to find a B20A# block to skip the new sleeving process.
All of this is looking to be around 1800 or so shipped, so I could quite possibly luck out and find things cheaper/closer to home to cut these costs.
So does this look good so far? Am I missing anything? Anyone have some hookups?
EDIT: I forgot to mention im going to need a new clutch! lol, mines pooching out as is. |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
| i'll piece a kit together for you with great parts including an hondata s300 for about $2500. I did that for nathan a while ago. I'll let you know soon. |
|
|
| anschutz_93 |
450cc injectors are overkill for 6-7psi on a t25.
255LPH fuel pump is way too big. I don't know about the honda fuel return line but I can almost guarantee you will out flow it, your car wouldn't idle and FP would go crazy. You would definitely need a FPR to use this pump. With a 190lph you may be able to keep your stock fuel return but I don't know.
Couplers are all those 4" hoses between your charge pipes
I'll shoot you a PM with parts you may be interested in. |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
quote:
Originally posted by anschutz_93
450cc injectors are overkill for 6-7psi on a t25.
255LPH fuel pump is way too big. I don't know about the honda fuel return line but I can almost guarantee you will out flow it, your car wouldn't idle and FP would go crazy. You would definitely need a FPR to use this pump. With a 190lph you may be able to keep your stock fuel return but I don't know.
Couplers are all those 4" hoses between your charge pipes
I'll shoot you a PM with parts you may be interested in.
Wrong. i don't think you realize how much power can be made at 6-7 psi on this engine. 255LPH is definetly what he needs and 450cc is not over kill either. You should never exceed 80% duty cycles and 450cc should insure that he does not go above 80%. He could probably get away with using some h22 injectors from 4th gens. 4th gens have 345cc, 5th gens only have 275cc.
Keegan if you are interested i am selling my 345cc's for dirt cheap. |
|
|
| Beagles |
quote:
Originally posted by Prudz_lude
i'll piece a kit together for you with great parts including an hondata s300 for about $2500. I did that for nathan a while ago. I'll let you know soon.
Would i need to be getting much new stuff though for the engine? or would the kit cover it all? |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
quote:
Originally posted by Beagles
Would i need to be getting much new stuff though for the engine? or would the kit cover it all?
It pretty much covers everything you need. I would suggest in the mean time (like this week or next week) you go get your car a compression test and a leak down. If you pass both of these with flying colors and your motor is healthy then turbo away. Also, make sure the timing belt, oil pump, and water pump are still in good condition. You don't want the belt to snap or one of the pumps to fail on you. |
|
|
| Beagles |
| The 450cc was to prevent over leaning out the fuel supply, but from what ive gather.. from that basic little set up, stock injectors would work although it would be a gamble.. As for the 345, what are u looking for adam? lol |
|
|
| Beagles |
quote:
Originally posted by Prudz_lude
It pretty much covers everything you need. I would suggest in the mean time (like this week or next week) you go get your car a compression test and a leak down. If you pass both of these with flying colors and your motor is healthy then turbo away. Also, make sure the timing belt, oil pump, and water pump are still in good condition. You don't want the belt to snap or one of the pumps to fail on you.
for the compression test... does that only look at the head of the engine? Because ill need the B20 bottom end to turbo it right. |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
| $50 i think is what my forsale thread says. 1/2 the price of some dsm 450cc's |
|
|
| Beagles |
| alright, and whats the deal with intercoolers? do you think it would have to be 3rd gen specific? |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
| no, with intercoolers they have demensions that you just fit to your bumper. You won't need a big one so it should work without cutting any plastic from your bumper. Should be pretty damn cheap too. The ebay intercoolers will be fine. They have been proven to be one of the few parts on ebay to actually work great. |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
| there is a guy on preludepower, motoxxxman. talk to him about the intercooler and the piping. He has a source that makes great piping for extremely cheap. It is high quality too. He can get you such cheap prices for literally everything and he is one of the smartest guys on the boards. LSD motorsports is also an online store where you can get everything you will need for dirt cheap compared to other places. |
|
|
| Gargoyle25 |
hey, i have a b20a5 block!... but it's in my still running car.... which i need... so never mind :D (325,000km and still going strong)
anyway, i would like to help at least since i would love the experience, and i plan on doing something like that myself someday
so let me know if you need a hand or anything |
|
|
| Beagles |
Update:
Looking at a built B20A block from a guy on PP.com, he said it was considered "Bullet Proof" with a compression of 10:1.
(Shipping is like 400 bux though)
As well, another guy from PP.com is selling some turbo manifolds for around 285 or so shipped, so im gonna see how that goes!
I believe i may have also found a T3 turbo! |
|
|
| Beagles |
| I have another question... for a compression/leak down test.. Im assuming the leakdown effects the entire engine, but is the compression limited to the block only? or does it apply to the entire motor as well? i ask because a guy on here is willing to sell me a complete B20A5w/ tranny for a hundred bux... only problem is a blown headgasket (id only be interested in the block really). Id rather get a leak down on my engine currently, then a compression on the B20A5 block if what i think is true... rather than 2 compressions/leak downs. |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
if it has a blown headgasket and you are unable to see it running i would not buy it. You never know what the condition of the rings are in until you tear it apart. Why are you even buying a new engine is my question? If your engine passes those tests why would you replace it with used stuff that may be in worse condition and probably is?
I wouldn't even be swapping my head out if it wasn't for the price i paid and the fact that it has a cnc port and polish job done to it. i decided to keep my block since the compression test came back perfect. There is no use risking buying a dud block for the same price i would sell my mint ass block for. screw the tiny amount of extra compression.
Understand where i am getting at? if your motor is healthy use your motor. Don't buy another engine unless it is a fully built brand new engine. |
|
|
| Beagles |
No i need a new block.... because wouldnt the turbz rip a new asshole through the FRM? The b20A# block is iron sleeves, whereas the B21 was when they decided to test the FRM.
So the B20 block would merely be for the cheaper approach compared to getting the B21A1 block resleeved with iron which is lookin around 1000 bux.
The rest of the engine would be useless to me. |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
FRM is stronger than iron....That is the whole point of the FRM material. The reason people hate it is because you can't just drop new pistons. You need to get it rehoned with 2 specific stones at specific angles which in the end is just barely cheaper than getting iron sleeves resleeved into the block. when you rehone the sleeves get thinner so a bit weaker. That is why people do that.
H22's are extremely strong blocks, it is the ringlands that are like glass. The ring lands tend to break and once that happens you have the above problem. 250whp can be done on an h22 easily and safely for years. 300whp can be done safely on a stock block and last for a while. There have even been people who have made 500whp on stock internals but there engines seem to have only lasted a few months at most. but thats do to high speed pulls all the way to 5th.
You seem to have some misinformation heading your way. Your engine can handle your small turbo plans. 220whp on your engine is well in the boundaries of that engine. Trust me, that much power in that little car will be plenty for you. Especially at the level of driving experience you have. Learn to drive on that much power and move it up. |
|
|
| Beagles |
OHHH ok... i guess i have been getting some misinformation then... because yeah, i honestly would need more experience in terms of power... seen as how im use to 110 at the wheel. Id be looking for like 170 if anything after the turbo stuff. (I would like a reliable turbo, that would be able to run in the winter if i set the psi lower, since i think it raises in cold?)
Thanks adam! and im calling my buddies friend today about a compression/leak down test. (Not needing to get a new block saves some hassle :D) |
|
|
| 2ndgenlude |
| even rehoning won't let you put a forged piston in a frm block. the reason people sleeve is to run a aftermarket stronger piston. thats all. i ran 7psi on my stock block and it was fine till the wastegate line messed up. do a compression test, and if its good you could boost on your engine right now no problem. |
|
|
| 2ndgenlude |
thats what happens when a ring land goes out. my old piston lol. |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
tyler, mahle pistons are forged. ;) but they are one of the only exceptions. Lol at the picture. Also, just to clear it up, mahle pistons actually do work great. It is just bad hone jobs that seem to fuck the engines over. There are a ton of people on honda-tech and a few other lude sites that have come forward with proof they are able to run forged pistons in a rehoned block.
If you are only looking for 170-180whp than that should be really easy to make. Your turbo will cost you nothing because it will be so damn small. Plus you will probably have full boost by 2-3 thousand rpm :lol:
Also, not putting a new block in saves you more than a little trouble, it saves you A LOT of trouble, and alot more money than i think you realize you would have had to spend. Fluids, gaskets, headstuds, etc cost ALOTTTTTTTTTTTtt |
|
|
| Beagles |
lol, go go money saving...
all i know is that im definately going to have to get a new clutch before the turbo is installed. My step dad said the throw out bearing is quite worn, which leads to me being unable to put it into first easily (Have to double clutch and or shift to second then first...) as well as being unable to shift into 2nd under hard acceleration. |
|
|
| Beagles |
| As well, do you think that 1 T3 turbo ... its from that integra part out, would be a decent turb? or should i be looking for just a lil T25? |
|
|
| 2ndgenlude |
| i would use a straight t3 with a .48 exhaust side. should work nicely. you could use a .63 if you want a later spool too. turbo on my car has a .63 exhaust side. |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
quote:
Originally posted by 2ndgenlude
i would use a straight t3 with a .48 exhaust side. should work nicely. you could use a .63 if you want a later spool too. turbo on my car has a .63 exhaust side.
yah that t3 should be fine. I saw that part out thread and that turbo should be fine. who is installing all of the turbo stuff? I vote a few install days at someones house to save you lots of money and it would be a good project for the club.
I would recommend you run an s300 for your management. You can get them on ebay for $500 or $700 with an aem wide band gauge. |
|
|
| Beagles |
Id like to turbo to start at like 4000 - 6000... that way im not boosting everywhere i go.. (Unless i could have a low boost setting from 2-3.5, and have a high boost for 4-6... that way the low boost could help with Fuel eco :P)
Also, i just called my buddies mechanic guy, he said that the engine is well on its way to being worn, so that if its burning oil (Which i think it is) or anything else like that i probably should go for a turbo. The compression would be 130 bux or so. He also only assembles for rebuilds, and goes through other machine shops for parts n stuff.
Any ideas on what i should do? I know the timing belt will need to be replaced for sure. The belt hasnt been done since the engine was rebuilt so the engine has 176 000km on it with only regular upkeep (Oil, distributor, air filter) |
|
|
| Beagles |
quote:
Originally posted by Prudz_lude
yah that t3 should be fine. I saw that part out thread and that turbo should be fine. who is installing all of the turbo stuff? I vote a few install days at someones house to save you lots of money and it would be a good project for the club.
I would recommend you run an s300 for your management. You can get them on ebay for $500 or $700 with an aem wide band gauge.
yeah id much rather assemble it with others then getting a shop to do it. Also, wouldnt S100 with turbo or even S200 be fine? (Much cheaper..) I recall someone selling S200 on this site... id just have to find the thread. |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
quote:
Originally posted by Beagles
yeah id much rather assemble it with others then getting a shop to do it. Also, wouldnt S100 with turbo or even S200 be fine? (Much cheaper..) I recall someone selling S200 on this site... id just have to find the thread.
s100 is crap, s200 is what i am running but it is pretty much chrome. The only reason i bought it is because it came already installed in a p28 ecu and the i needed a p28 ecu. Plus the price was extremely good. Buy the s300, you won't regret it. I would have but like i said, i got way to good a deal on an ecu and the program.
Look at it this way, you just saved $1000 on the engine, put some of that money towards a gauge and the best management system for your car. Plus it will reduce the cost of dyno'ing your car. |
|
|
| Beagles |
| Then again, after reading all the juicy features of the S300, im going to assume its most definately worth it. |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
| ^welllllllllllll worth it. I do kind of regret buying my s200 but its to late. I don't really care that much. it will do more than what i need. |
|
|
| Beagles |
| Also, ill still need to find another ECU, unless S300 is loving to all |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
| i have no clue about that. Someone help him out lol. |
|
|
| 2ndgenlude |
| i bought my s300 already installed in a ecu from xenocron in the states. fast shipping, and good service. it is expensive though. your obd0 right? or are you obd1? you will probably need a conversion harness. s300 is a dream to tune. all realtime, easy changes, moniters some stuff, and has onboard memory for datalogging. somewhat overkill for a stock block setup, but very nice. you could do what i did the first time. worked well. buy a chipped ecu for around $100 and run crome. it is more time consuming to tune though, but crome is free. |
|
|
| Beagles |
| Oh and adam, if i should be going for a wideband, should i just buy the Wideband, BOV, and Turbo from that guy? |
|
|
| 2ndgenlude |
| thats good. saves a headache. my s300 is in a PR4 right now. you could even go through a junkyard and find a po6 out of a 92-95 civic with a 5spd tranny. be like 40-50 bucks, then just find someone to chip it. |
|
|
| Beagles |
Alright, ill be on a search for those ecu's then... hop on over to some wreckers this week (Weather permitting) and post up a WTB thread..
Also, im thinking that Crome Pro would be cheaper than S300 no? But with the lower cost comes a program harder to tune or get tuned?
http://www.tunewithcrome.com/recommendation.html |
|
|
| walkur1 |
If you need any chipping/soldering done, let me know. I'm pretty comfortable with that stuff.
And yes, generally you get what you pay for. Chrome Pro is cheaper, because it's less popular and less user-friendly. As far as how many shops will tune with it, that, I do not know. |
|
|
| Beagles |
ok so if Crome is free, then how do you chip the ecu? (Thats one thing that confuses me..) or do you like have the ECU in hand, plug it into a laptop/computer and program away?
Im thinking that the cheaper approach might be a little bit kinder on me, since a 700$ s300 package seems a lil overkill for 7-8psi on stock internals.
Edit: oh and i msged your friend Kurtis, im just waiting his response. |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
widebands are pointless unless you have a tool to adjust the a/f ratio. AKA the hondata s300. Without the s300 you have to go to the dyno to correct the a/f, you can't just use a laptop like you can the s300.
If you don't get a s300 don't waste your money on a wideband because all it would do show you want you can't fix :lol: thats my personal opinion but whatever. There are plenty of other ways to tell if you are running rich or lean. |
|
|
| 2ndgenlude |
| wideband has saved my ass a few times. IMO its a critical gauge in a boosted car. Tells you if your injectors are acting up, tells you if your car has a exhaust leak and your idle leans way out, etc. could save you from engine damage if you shut the car off, or let off the throttle if something bad happens. |
|
|
| Beagles |
LOL
Family: So why is your engine running funny Keegan?
Me: Well the air/fuel ratio is running a bit to lean, see how the wideband gauge informs me of that?
Family: Well why dont you fix it with the computer... i thought u can tune it from home.
Me: Well you see, with my free tune set up and this wideband thingy, it tells me whats wrong.
Family: so you can fix it?
Me: no... but if i get someone else to tune it, it can be fixed!!.............
Well is there a way to avoid screwing the ratio? or is life just gonna be a billion times easier if i get an ecu/wideband w/s300?
Im lookin to do the turbo for like 2500 or so, so that i can afford a new clutch and the K-Sport coilcover set... since my suspension is slowly starting to feel like a 12 speed bike going through a bumpy trail. |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
quote:
Originally posted by 2ndgenlude
wideband has saved my ass a few times. IMO its a critical gauge in a boosted car. Tells you if your injectors are acting up, tells you if your car has a exhaust leak and your idle leans way out, etc. could save you from engine damage if you shut the car off, or let off the throttle if something bad happens.
Ohhh i completely agree, but how are you going to change it everytime something fucks up if you don't have an s300? Are you going to just schedual dyno time all the time? Yah, that is what you are going to have to do :lol: because that is all you really can do. |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
quote:
Originally posted by Beagles
LOL
Family: So why is your engine running funny Keegan?
Me: Well the air/fuel ratio is running a bit to lean, see how the wideband gauge informs me of that?
Family: Well why dont you fix it with the computer... i thought u can tune it from home.
Me: Well you see, with my free tune set up and this wideband thingy, it tells me whats wrong.
Family: so you can fix it?
Me: no... but if i get someone else to tune it, it can be fixed!!.............
Well is there a way to avoid screwing the ratio? or is life just gonna be a billion times easier if i get an ecu/wideband w/s300?
Im lookin to do the turbo for like 2500 or so, so that i can afford a new clutch and the K-Sport coilcover set... since my suspension is slowly starting to feel like a 12 speed bike going through a bumpy trail.
lol.....its not a matter of screwing up the a/f ratio, it is a matter of your cars parts getting problems beyond your control and trying to fix them. Have you seen what an a/f graph looks like or what it looks like when it is spiking back and forth? The goal is to keep it at a constant ratio. However, that is hard to do. |
|
|
| Beagles |
so it would be greatly advised to purchase s300 then :P
Ill start looking around now.. i wont be able to get into the shop for a comp test until tuesday... |
|
|
| 2ndgenlude |
| i fixed my af with my laptop/ chip burner when i was on crome. its quite easy actually. i was too rich at idle so i took some fuel out of the map, burnt a chip and it was fine. as long as you know what rpm and vaccumm/boost level its happening at you can do a quick chip burn. |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
quote:
Originally posted by 2ndgenlude
i fixed my af with my laptop/ chip burner when i was on crome. its quite easy actually. i was too rich at idle so i took some fuel out of the map, burnt a chip and it was fine. as long as you know what rpm and vaccumm/boost level its happening at you can do a quick chip burn.
well there you go, i don't have a chip burner. how much did it cost you? Don't stress about how long it takes to get it in the shop for the tests Keegan, your not turboing your car as we speak. You have lots of time my friend, lots of time. |
|
|
| 2ndgenlude |
| also s300 is $595 US+ shipping which is like 20 bucks from the same place i bought mine. if you want it installed in a ecu its a additional $150. so $745 and its ready to go. |
|
|
| 2ndgenlude |
quote:
Originally posted by Prudz_lude
well there you go, i don't have a chip burner. how much did it cost you? Don't stress about how long it takes to get it in the shop for the tests Keegan, your not turboing your car as we speak. You have lots of time my friend, lots of time.
Moates chip burner is $85
Moates ostrich is $175
i still have mine somewhere i think. |
|
|
| 2ndgenlude |
| starting bid with 5 days left lol. the hondata alone is worth 100 more then that. |
|
|
| Beagles |
| oh yeah... i just assumed buynow since almost everything is.. nvm then :P |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
| ebay always has a few deals like that. i would not bid until the end. Keep the bid price down and don't let others know you want it. other wise they will just keep bidding against you and before you know it the price will be sky high. make an alarm on your phone saying "log on computer and bid on ebay" set it for 10 min before the auction ends. :thumbup: Works almost everytime. |
|
|
| Beagles |
lol, id do that if i had the money in hand atm.
I mean i could technically just ask my ma to throw it on the visa, and pay her back later... but im thinking i should wait for another deal or something... because if the compression test comes back FAIL, then the money will be going into a rebuild |
|
|
| 2ndgenlude |
quote:
Originally posted by Beagles
lol, id do that if i had the money in hand atm.
I mean i could technically just ask my ma to throw it on the visa, and pay her back later... but im thinking i should wait for another deal or something... because if the compression test comes back FAIL, then the money will be going into a rebuild
do a compression test yourself. borrow a tester from someone and go at it. takes like 15mins. |
|
|
| Beagles |
are you fucking serious? i can save 130 bux by testing it myself... WHAT WHAT WHAT!?!?!?
any idea where one would be, and how it would be done? |
|
|
| Beagles |
| Oh... my friends dad works at alberta honda (he got me the job way back when) ill see if he has a tester at home. |
|
|
| walkur1 |
| Do you still work there?? :fingersx: |
|
|
| Beagles |
Im not sure... i mean i think i might still be employed, because i wasnt fired nor did i quit..
There just wasnt room for me in the schedule after my long leave of absence. But my friends dad (Glen the head mechanic) did tell me to come in and see the new washbay when its up and running...
why what do ya need? lol |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
| lol $130!!! It takes 5 min roughly. I think the actual tool is only around $50 at k-tire. Very easy to do. The leak down though, i am not 100% sure how they do that. I have just let the shop do that every time i have bought my car and send it in for inspection. |
|
|
| Soulfly |
This all sounds like a pretty fun conversation.... lol
I didn't read the WHOLE thread... but.. I'm just gonna say what I was thinking from the first few posts that I have read...
Adam and Tyler Both know what they are talking about... Tyler has been there before, and knows Kind of what to do.. And Adam.. Well.. From what I know about the guy.. He's never had a Turbo Honda before.. But he's done ALOT of research.. and Has a good handle on what to do..
But then again.. Everyone wants to do things a little bit differently.. and Some will view those opinions as 'The WRONG Way' to do things...
For some stuff.. it's personal preference, Like Intercooler, Charge piping, what motor to use, and Exhaust.
But Others.. Such as Oil feed lines and return lines... You need to follow a few rules with those.. Like.. Return line should be kind of big, Like 1/2" line or 5/8".. and Feed line should be monitered for Oil Pressure.. You don't want as much Oil pressure for a Ball bearing turbo, as you do for a Journal bearing, as they require a different oiling procedure.. |
|
|
| Beagles |
| i know the size of lines/pumps n stuff that i need, im just trying to figure out the rest :P |
|
|
| 2ndgenlude |
lol, ya i bought my fare share from him
intercooler, fuel rail, FPR, piping, couplers, electronic boost controller, etc. his prices are cheaper then anything around here. |
|
|
| Beagles |
sounds like a plan... although i might need to ask Tyler to see if they would make a custom T3 manifold...
They currently will make a custom T25 manifold w/intercooler for the 3gen, but they might need a regular customers push to make a T3 lol
Edit: Motoxxman is yet to reply to my pm
AND i would also need a street clutch kit from them aswell!.... Shipping bundle discounts?!?!?! =D
Another Question: Whats the difference in all those clutch kits? Theres like 10 different kits lol
http://lsdmotorsports.com/merchant2...Code=L200-Honda
the kits are near the bottom |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
Yah, bundled shipping saves alot of money. I always try to do that but i seem to never do that lol.
As for the clutch what you are looking for is Tq ratings. Clutches don't depend on the power the car is making, they depend on the tq the car is making. Right now your car is rated at like 110whp. You will be bumping it to about 180whp. Torque is probably around 135-145. Thats just a guess but seems like what it would be around. What you would want is to find a clutch that can handle about 170ish. Always give it a little extra but there is no use putting a clutch that can handle 300-400 pounds of torque if you are barely making 150. It will just make the pedal pressure a nightmare like tylers lol.
http://lsdmotorsports.com/merchant2...mp;Car=AC,HO,SS
That would be perfect for your setup. |
|
|
| 2ndgenlude |
| im actually used to mine, its just tricky full throttle shifting without shaking the car apart lol. |
|
|
| Beagles |
The price looks right as well!
Im thinking about going to shitting tire right now to grab a comp tester... and maybe get someone to do the leakdown? |
|
|
| Prudz_lude |
| yah 200 for a clutch is great. I wish i could get a clutch for that much. I could but the tq rating is too low. $400 for me :( |
|
|
| Beagles |
:( :( :( :( :( that blows
Also, what do u need to do to do your own compression test? |
|
|
| walkur1 |
| I need a lower control arm and possibly tie rods all for the front passenger side of my car. The lower arm is close to $200 OEM... :geezuz: I think I'm just going to order the stuff that I need through Speedtech though. |
|
|
| Beagles |
| Yeah Kurtis, the discount i had (and maybe even have still?!?!?) was 15% so its not much, but 30 bux off would still be solid. |
|
|
| Beagles |
because of the shitty block issue, should i be stretching to just fully rebuild the B21? get the suspension and clutch and rebuild first of all, then push turbo till like september - next spring/summer?
Id hate to have to do that but im thinking i may have to. I know my engine burns oil, since every 2 weeks or so i have to fill it from half (Between the 2 little circles) So that probably doesnt help the turbo cause. God only knows if my compression is whacked, or anything is leaking. |
|
|
| Beagles |
Ok and yet another thing arises. A guy is selling his B20A
http://www.preludepower.com/forums/...ad.php?t=292264
with built block for 1200 bux... This is looking like a fairly decent deal right now... although the shipping would be a monster, it might be worth it? |
|
|
| Beagles |
B21A1 stock block could be used for turboing, but its recommended to at least get a Hone Job done right, as well as new seals, bearings, higher oil capacity, and external oil cooler.
Any idea how much a Hone job is? |
|
|
| mike3 |
| A hone job is cheap. Buy a hone and hone it yourself. I can't remember which shops sell hones, but I'm sure you could find one at House of Tools for cheap. Princess Auto didnt have one when I was loking for it. Just imagine running a brush the size of a piston through the cylinder. |
|
|
| Beagles |
That seems incredibly simplistic in theory!
Sadly i dont have the tools or equipment to haul out an engine. (Unless it can be down while inside?) But if i need to replace those few things and most likely the timing belt (Hasnt been done in a alooong time) i would probably be better off having it takin out no? |
|
|
|
